Oizarod115

is it the kinda thing you can buy pre-flared brake line and bend it to fit?

can't help ya there brotha, i'm a manual kinda guy.

go with a 40 series flowmaster and don't look back i went 50 series and its really quiet, almost a stock sound, but more growly.

"all i wanna do is get home and hug my momma!" i like how he doesn't mash the manch. :clapping:

they don't have any dome lights left ;) sorry guys. perfect shape! i'm hailing from lawrenceville/snellville/loganville area, but can commonly be found in helen, hiawassee or anywhere else thats not HERE. :clapping: best junkyard by far is pull-a-part in conley (atlanta) it has the best jeep stuff usually, the one in norcross (buford hwy) is pretty picked over but better now with C4C, and there is another yard right behind 4wheel parts which is like 5 minutes from that location.

hah, seen it before but not the whole clip, jst the last pull... hahahah thats darwinism, stupid 0ne walks home.

i believe our "shift on the fly" 4wd is good for 2h-4h-2h shifts at speeds UP TO 40mph, so if yuo're turning onto a dirt-road at 20-30 and pull it into 4wd between shifts it'll be just fine.

the HO head and 99+ intake is a crazy swap man, not sure if it's worth it but i can give yuo a parts list cause i just finished mine. -head -intake -exhaust header -exhaust intermediate pipe -throttle cable and bracket on the intake -power steering pump and lines (you'll need to use on of the new ones and one of the old ones and cut the return line a little shorter) -some way of protecting the o2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, and knock sensor wires from the exhaust (different manifold and they'll get burnt) -a LOT of miscellaneous vacuum stuff to get all the vacuum things put back together. -the hesco TPS adapter i forgot -fuel lines for an HO and compression fittings to splice them with yours -fuel rail for an HO and if you get down to it i'll find out the length of my serpentine belt for you because it will be a random size that never fit any jeep, and routed like a late-model.

if you've spent that much on the truck already you might as well continue to do it right. buy OME (old man emu) shocks for sure, or bilsteins just like CW said... and 320$ for shocks isn't a bad price at all, sensa-tracs aren't gonna be nice riding or long lasting.

i carry the factory volvo kit including two open ended wrenches 10-12; 11-13 combos. a reversible flat-phillips screwdriver, and one small 10mm ratchet wrench that i found stays in there too. i also carry a large LED maglight, and jumper cables (for when friends need boosts, only manuals for me)

mine hasn't looked this clean since i bought it, waxed it up before putting it in its place, now its full (well empty at the moment cause we're so damn busy) this was it at its cleanest, august '08 i'll snap a current pic tomorrow.

no good arguments for people to come to GA... EF this state i want OUT! who's got a good place to go?

i have a 10" firing DIRECTLY into the back of my passenger seat (rubbing right on it) free junky MTX a buddy gave me years ago and it's doing just fine... i'm only running about 400w max to it and i doubt it ever sees 200 peak so maybe thats why mine hasn't torn up, but you should be able to get a good sub with a protector or ring around it and not have any trouble.

and you SHOULD have 2 fuel lines, i suspect you're overlooking the other one.v

i know people around here have used http://www.jeepsticker.com if they're still up and running

it really depends on HOW loud it is... they generally all make alot of noise... some did it from brand new, some developed it over time, and some never do it. also be sure you've got plenty of oil pressure cause this can be associated with it often.

like the truck! just one constructive criticism... can we find a blue gas door for it?

the best results generally come from factory parts... that said, i've got the cheapest pads i could find on the front of my jeep and they are smooth and quiet. i think they were brake-best from oreilly's on the rear i have mopar shoes/spring kit and it was very reasonable less than 100 bucks, and i turned the factory drums, no issues there. i actually just looked up online, the first wholesale mopar place i found listed rear shoes for 43$ and front pads for 52$... the price on rotors was way out of whack since it listed it including bearing races... :roll: so there you have it... factory brake pads/shoes for 100$ plus whatever you do for rotors/drums.(i think parts stores turn them for ~10$) can't go wrong.

the line is easy enough to disconnect at the fuel rail, try pulling it off and getting a cup, running the pump on the starter to see what kind of fuel sample you can get. after a few cases of bad flooding in our area we have seen cars that won't start due to water in the fuel.

if the fuel pump tests are inconclusive, or your results show good pressure and flow; get a push-in style tag light bulb, (small one 5w or so), take the metal prongs and fold them out straight, then unplug a fuel injector and plug this in its place... then have a buddy run the starter and you shuold be able to watch the light flicker if the injector is being triggered by the ECU. if not check yuor connections and the bulb to be sure its good, then you've got an ECU problem at that point.

the key MUST be on when attempting to scan a vehicle... don't listen to the scanner, try it with the key on.

:smart: beat me to it eagle!

thanks guys! :wavey:

stick shift changes things, i was thinking automatic... don't forget to check for axlewrap in the rear-end and worn out bushings back there. for some reason (volvo experience here) only stick shift cars wear out the bushings in the rear-end and the tell-tale signs are clunks (again... RWD solid axle volvo here) but the same principle applies.. check the rear end too.

i don't want to contradict you here because if you pull that relay the pump SHOULD NOT run, but something is up with my truck and the fuel pump would run with ALL the relays removed, and the resistor unplugged (this is while running the starter)... the only way i could get it to shut off for sure was to unplug the connector under the truck (which only takes a few seconds anyways) so if you want to be DARNED sure it won't run unplug it underneath