64 Cheyenne

Yup, the Chiefs PO told me "Burns out in all four tires!"

Yup, every time I look at my Racer Back, I think the same thing... Hmmmmm

Tried to search......"dashboard removal".....all that comes up is your post.... :laughin: ......that is the greatest bit of self promotion I have ever seen.... :bowdown: Aint trying to self promote myself, what I'm trying to get you to do is find the info the same way I did..."Search function". Same as Shelby, PM me and I'll answer your questions about dash and VIN swap, PM because anything with the vin is not really on the up and up, but is easy to do and can be done with no visible idea that its been changed. If you gonna get a new dash, do so, then report back here and I'm sure we'll get you taken care of.... as far as the search, keep tryin, or I'm sure somebody might search for you, help you out, provide you with a link...

:agree:

swap vin#s to new pad...easy peasy, so I heard...

Regardless of how much they cost, when I look outside, I still "SEE" my Jeeps. When my extra cash was spent on wine, women, and song....heck, sometimes I didn't even have a window to look out of....

can't just change the "dash pad", it's integral with the whole dash, VIN tag included. Search "dashboard removal".

Why get pissy about it? Get the correct tranny and move on. I understand why you want to keep the 90 tranny but really? is it worth it? Fix the MJ... sellin it don't fix it.

IF you replace a valve, I support the "lap one, lap them all statement" lapping valves is easy, you'll use a compressor to get the keepers out for the first valve, might as well do them all.. Beyond that, I've put a head upside down on a bench, put oil in the combustion chamber, let it sit overnight, in the morning, check the runners for leakage....

Make sure to check the start switch on the column.

At the very least a brand new plastic bottle, if the cap has even a slight leak, it will overheat. No used tanks allowed, new only.

:popcorn: Since I've been steeling parts from the 87 and puttin them on the 88... Maybe a dropped 87 with fat tires, racerback and visor hmmmmmm..... Really like the idea of a dropped MJ with a V8....

Actually I think your going the right direction with the 2000 ecu controlling your 90 tranny. Only thing Id suggest is forgo the posi lock and just completely lock it over or do a one piece conversion. In the later years Jeep did away with the two piece axle in favor of the one piece for simplicity and reliability, seems that fuel mileage numbers weren't changed enough to complain about.

I'm not totally sure but I think your 90 tranny has a stand alone computer (under kick panel on the right side) that controls your AW4.and if you can get the wiring to mate up, I don't see why you couldnt use the older tranny with the newer computer. Or you could possibly go the stand alone route and use old aw4 computer by its self, although this might cause problems with the 2000 computer not being hooked to a tranny, probably need to switch wiring.

First, verify that the cable isn't broke. Might have to pull the cluster to verify, or spin the end with a drill, have somebody check the gauge see if it's moving. I just stick the gear into the hole, turn it till it lines up with whatever index is close and either it works or it don't. Not really rocket science, the gear is on an eccentric, look at it, turn it, and see which way best engages the drive gear in the output.

ok

IMHO, if it were me, I'd cut my losses, look for a better project, put that much time and effort into something usable like this http://comancheclub.com/topic/47895-jeep-comanche-body-cab-and-bed-garland-tx-75040-350/ http://imgur.com/a/JHhjB

Comes down to whether you can live with a LB on the street (sucks), that's the reason I have one for sale in classifieds (selling for a friend). My self, I got all the stuff to do my own R&P, and have regeared, and rebuilt CPs in both my 8.8s LSD diffs. Highly recommend an LSD for any street use. I have a LB up front, LSD in the back, it's all I've ever needed here in mt. On a side note, people make diff work out to be a black art, it's not. I pieced my stuff together, did the research and had at it. The last one I did, getting rid of my friends LB in his 8.8, he gave me this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARRIER-BEARING-PULLER-DANA-30-40-60-70-FORD-9-/251658285461?hash=item3a9800b195 maybe people could pool resources, one friend buy a press, somebody buy the puller, etc. Took me about 4hrs, axle out of the vehicle, start to finish, would have been a lot faster if I was the one who put the LB in, it would have made taking it back out a lot easier. Yup, if it wasn't for CC, ....I'd still have more $$$$ :doh:

"push the clutch in (pump it up)....HOLD.....release bleeder....floor....hold....close bleeder.... repeat." Not saying anything about your companion, but if she can drive and push the pedal in, she can help with what you need. I usually grab one of the little kids to push the pedal for me seems they love being asked to do something useful. BTW, I'm assuming your internal, because if it's new and internal, you shouldn't be askin for help. That is unless you took the plastic retainer off....

Yup, that is Sooooo why I moved to western Montana.

30 WT SYNTHETIC, dirt shouldn't cause problems if it wasn't metal ,just change it soon, I would use regular 30 for about 20 mi then flush. I would not load or stress the tranny till you put the synthetic back in it. The property differences between conventional and synthetic are astronomical, so do not run regular 30wt for very long (1 day max), like I suggest 20 mi at light load and speed. And yes, you just tap the seal in ,just be sure to use some sort of driver like an old socket or such.

If the spline count is correct it should.

Just reread the OP, if you had a TJ, that would be a fair deal for tranny, TC and all accessories, but not good for an MJ guy, unless your willing to search for more parts and willin to spend more $$$

For ease of swap, I'd look for a COMPLETE set up from an XJ because the tranny does not clock the TC different (The TJ one does but will work), has the correct cross member and all the correct brackets including the ultra important body side bracket. Or buy that one for $600 just to pay more on top of that for the correct cross member and linkages from an XJ. FWIW, I think $600 is WAAAAYYYY too much for that tranny, you should/could probably find a wrecked complete XJ with an AX15 for that price. My last AX XJ (complete) salvage cost me $300, came with extra set mounted nearly new studded Blizzak radials, good motor interior body (stripped TC). This is kind of like searchin for a car, it's usually best if you don't buy the first one you see and shop around, unless you absolutely "just HAVE TOO have that one." and willing to spend MORE $$ and as far as the pilot bushing, the 304 one is all you'll need, local Napa, less than $10 bucks.

Dakota fuel tank, pump, and sender. Search is your friend for a write up as this has been done and works well.