dasbulliwagen

When Pete says transfer everything, he means EVERYTHING. The heater/ac box assembly, ALL wiring, radiator core support and cooling system, he didnt mention fuel pump, but youll need a 4.0 fuel pump also, might be able to transfer just the pump part to your 2.5 assy leaving your original fuel level sender, I think theres something about that on here somewhere. Just be prepared and take your time. Good luck.

There is a way for one cylinder to lean out.... there may be a vacuum leak at that intake port, maybe the intake gasket? Or a vac port right above #3 cylinder? I havent looked at mine lately to know if there is a port there or not, but its possible. Do you still have the gasket, maybe it can tell you something.

Pacific time zone. So that puts you on at 7pm. Ill be there if I remember. All the NBC shows are on that night. Community, 30 Rock, The Office (my personal favorite), and I can never remember the name of the show at 9:30... the one with the Indian call center? Actually a very good show.... a couple of REALLY hot women on that show! An Indian girl, and an Aussie girl. VERY NICE!

Why thursday?

Its been almost a year, but I finnally finished it..... epecially with some prodding from the wife to have it done for my daughters 2nd birthday party. Worked on it all last week to get it finished. I havent gotten many pics of it yet, but you can see from the before pics above, and the finished pics below, that theres a huge difference. Enjoy!

If you want map lights with the sunroof, pick up a map lighted mirror from a GM product and wire it in while you have the headliner out, then you can have the map lights/domelights, and the sunroof. If you gte the mirror, get the glue on mounting bracket too so you know it will mount up.

Bolt pattern is the same, and the wheel spacers (spidertrax) are not really necessary. Like the former poster said, new spring perches will need to be welded on in the proper location, and the park brake cables need to be modified, and youll need to find the correct size pinion to hook up the Mj rear driveshaft to it, but from what Ive read, thats no big deal, I think one from a Crown vic or a Gr. Marquis is supposed to be the right size, but would have to be confirmed, they also had the 8.8, but are the wrong width. Youll need to do away with the load sensing valve too and maybe install a ZJ or WJ proportioning valve to go with the rear disc brakes. Not a bad job, just need to do your research. Good luck.

And that will make the engine run rich and never enter the correct computer mode (closed loop, or open loop???), and could cause your converter to get hot and go bad. Put a thermostat back in it!

I'm not sure if you meant it that way or not, but just for clarification, the 2.8 was never offered with the puegot transmission. All the 2.8's came with an AX5, but there are rumors of it being offered with another manual early on, but I can remember what it was, or an auto A904.

Year, Make, Model 1988 Jeep Comanche Pioneer Image, if available Not available Engine / Trans / Transfercase / Front axle / Rear axle / Wheelbase 4.0 auto 2wd Dana 35 Long bed Milage: 182,774 as of October 2010 Build date: Illegeible Current Location: Asheboro, NC Status: On road part time Notes: Cream color paint, tan interior, bench seat with no cutout, ATV winch mounted to right side of front bumper, running year round on studded tires in North Carolina, 3 pc slider rear window. Current owner: Nick Arnold

Mine were the lace style limited wheel, but still had the same polished lip like those and painted center. After cleaning them up they turned out nice, I didnt clearcoat mine.... was too wrried that it would start peeling off. Just take your time with the wire wheel to get the corrosion off and smoothed out as good as possible and then hit it with polish. Painting the centers on those, I would use sandpaper to clean up the bad spots, spot prime, wet sand as much as possible on the whole thing and then repaint in your choice of color. Theyll turn out nice!

I redid my rims, were almost like that, I used a wire wheel in a drill and wire wheeled the whole outside edge of the rim. Try to keep the wire marks all going in the same direction aound the edge so that when your next step comes.... polishing, it will all look the same. Find some aluminum polish and one of those mothers wheel polish things for your drill, and go to town. After you get the edge polished, you can either clear coat it, or just keep polishing whenever needed. The center part is painted isnt it? Might be a good time to repaint that part too while doing all this work. Good luck.

That 48 hour rule has me perplexed.... WHAT IF.... I came home from work friday at 5 PM, parked on the street, and didnt leave the house all weekend till I had to go back to work on monday morning??? My 48 hours would have been up at 5 PM on sunday. Parked and not going anywhere on the weekend does not a non running stored vehicle make. I don't know who writes these stupid laws, but they sure as hell don't live in the real world!

In the original "Gone in 60 seconds" from 1973, they were doing this. They would buy a wrecked car or parts, take the VIN from it, steal a new car just like the wrecked one, swap the VIN's and re sell the stolen car with the wrecked car VIN. And on that note... I'm still dissappointed that they replaced the original Eleanor with a 1967. Yeah maybe the 67 is sexier than the 73, but the 73 was still a bad azz car! Ive loved the 73 style since I was a little kid and a neighbor had one. They are making a comeback though... nice to see!

Mine does that when the fuse to the cluster looses good contact, I wiggle it around, it makes contact again, and the light goes out.... check the fuses.

:needpics:

I did this last year on my 87 2.5. Most of the wiring was already there. The HVAC box had a seperate harness that in mine plugged into an existing harness connector somewhere in the vicinity of behind the radio. The connector had all the wires in it already on one side and didnt have the unused oneson the original heater box. I plugged it up and all was well on that part. In the engine compartment though was a different story. The compressor wire was there already, but the relay and control wires were not there. There was an unused connector in there though that was saved for "dealer installed AC" I found it listed in the downloadable Factory service manual, and made up the relay and harness I needed to get it all to work right. I'm not sure if any of that would be the same for the 4.0 or not, but its worth a try. Be sure to open up your new HVAC box and clean it out while its out... check the evaporator and heater core for leaks, and replace as necessary. I sprayed the hell out of mine with Lysol because it had a mouse nest in there. Cleaned the nest out, cleaned the box up and sprayed it till it was soaking... let it dry, re-assemble, and hook it all up. Good luck!

I would think that if you added extra oil through thee intake, it wouldnt be long before the cat converter would clog up or burn out on ya. Like Pete said, these are already 300,000 mile engines, there really isnt a need for this.

A stock height 2wd would be a bit tight with 31's, 30 might be as much as you should go with 2wd springs. If you swapped in 4wd springs, 31's should be fine. I'm running stock Jeep aluminum wheels off a ZJ limited, or Cherokee country. The stock backspacing will work best for you. If you want wider, then TJ canyons, or TJ rubicon rims might be good for you. JK rubicons will not work, so if you go that route, make sure the rims are 2006 and older. If you want non stock rims, well, I guess the sky is the limit, but if you arent lifting, Id stay close to stock! Good luck!

You want to go spring over for 5-6 inches, add a leaf for 2-3 inches, and extended shackles for 1-2 inches???? that between 8-11 inches of rear lift!!! Youll need long arms up front to make the front work properly.... and thats if you can find springs and shocks long enough to "level it out". Very ambitious.... and very expensive. If you can't afford to have a shaft shortened, you can't afford to lift the front that much. I'm not sure what your final plans are, but to keep things reasonable, I would stick with a spring over only in the rear, and a 4.5 inch kit in the front with a spring spacer, and control arm drop brackets with custom control arms. Still expensive, but within reason. Let us know what your plans are, I'm very curious!

MMMMMMMMM! Cider vinegar!

When my 86 parts truck came along for $125, my wife couldnt say no to that low of a price for all of what I got out of it. Just keep an eye out, and maybe something will fall in your lap!

Again...... BALANCE YOUR WHEELS! Seriously... this can help you!

I can only comment on "B", but just replacing ball joints may or may not help your situation. There are many components in the front end that when all added up could lead to DW, but usually one of the main things is the track bar mount, or the track bar bushings..... tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, caster angle, toe angles, steering stabilizer and WHEEL BALANCE are all contributing factors. Start off by getting a good wheel balance and have them check for out of round and or bent wheel tire combination. This can often set DW into motion with even all new parts. Ive seen many cases of new TJ wranglers come in with DW at under 15,000 miles on them, so start there, then lie underneath the front while someone else moves your steering back and forth to check and see for any unwanted movement, and if you see any... fix it. Control arm bushings will be harder to detect if bad, but it is rarer that they are the cause. Good luck, and let us know what you find!

When I gutted my cat conv, I sleeved the inside of it to make a smooth flow through it. In my area, we have inspections, so at least the appearance of a converter has to be there.... but like I said, I had NO noticeable power loss, and it actually feels like it gets up and goes a bit quicker than it did before.... and the cat was in good shape when I removed... one of the cleaner ones Ive ever seen. If you don't have inspections, test pipe it, if you do, sleeve it inside and hit the road!