dasbulliwagen

I got another set in the same size off another used car.... funny thing is they were both Chevy pickups. These ones are an off brand all terrain with maybe 1/4 tread left. I should be able to sell them as well. I put this money into my discretionary fund... money that doesnt affect our household budget (money the wife doesnt know about most of the time). Thats how I bought my welder, and the materials for my daughters red wagon project. I keep planning on buying lift parts for the MJ, just havent gotten there yet. I'm thinking now I want to buy a plasma cutter to go with my welder. We will see how much I have after selling these, and whatever scrap metal i have saved up.

Some models came with a removable cross body harness that would be removed with the doors to make working them easier. Otherwise you may have to make a harness to get everything to work. I had to make one for mine. I used the door side and body side connectors and made a harness in between using a factory service manual wiring diagram. And yes you can gut the electrics and install manual windows. They are held on with big rivets so those will need cut out and replaced with bolts. Beyond that its a straight swap.

here's the tires. Ill see about posting them this weekend. Thanks for the input!

On the topic of drivng stick, Ive taught every girl I ever been with, including my wife, who now prefers a stick over an auto, Because driving an auto is now boring to her. All our vehicles and planned future vehicles will be stick as well. My daughter won't have a choice when it come time for her to learn. Though I have seen with the younger generation an unwillingness to learn. My little sister being one of them. Ive offered to teach her several times, but she acts like shes scared of it or something, or like its uncool. Either that or shes just too lazy. Makes me sad for future generations.

I had thought this before as well, but then I saw the location, and if I read the words in an Aussie accent, it was all good!

I got a free set of Dick Cepek Mud Country Tires at work off a used car. They are LT285/75R16 and have about half tread left. I looked up the spec on them and they started at about 33 inches tall, but currently measure about 32 due to wear. I thought about keeping them, but I really don't care for the style, and it will be too far down the road before Ill be able to build the other MJ. Ive been thinking about selling them to a local used tire shop, but was wondering if I might be able to get more for them by listing them on a local off road forum? What do you think they would be worth? Thanks!

You wouldnt have all necessary parts if you use a ZJ as a doner. The reason you find an XJ is so you can get the radiator, the core support, and all the correct placed and length wiring. That and youll have a bunch of other spare parts and possible upgrades as well. Most XJs had power windows and locks, so that might be another possible upgrade for your MJ on top of getting the drivetrain. And the 97 up models had one peice door windows and better mirrors. This is something you could do in a weekend after getting all the other stuff done, and if you do the whole dash and dash wiring, it would be plug and play! If you want a NP242 transfer case too, youll need all the shift linkage from the donor as well. Full time 4x4 would be a nice upgrade and a reselling point if it ever comes to it. A whole XJ is just a better option for doing this, theres no other way around it. Why waste all time repinning harnesses when you could just swap it in complete and be done and ready to go? Just sayin. It would save you a ton of headaches later on doing it this way.

The AX4/5 bellhousing will not bolt to an AX15. If you want a 5 speed, it would be easiest to find an AX5.... it is identical to the AX4 externally, just has an extra gear! It is a direct bolt in from the AX4. If you do the dakota 2.5 AX15 swap, youll need to change the crossmember and driveshaft/s will have to be custom cut. Not to mention possible shifter issues.

They originally came with the A904 automatic in 86, and are quite rare for the 4 cylinder, though they used the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the 2.8 v6 and are probably interchangable, though I would research that before buying. Youll also need a 2.5 auto flex plate, and probably a different crossmember for the trans mount. Drivehshafts may also be different lengths. Assuming its all the same as the 2.8, youd be best finding a complete donor for all the parts. 86 model 2.8 Comanches seem to be prolific, but Ive never seen an auto, though I do have an 86 XJ 2.8 auto parts truck. That might be the easiest to find, and then buy the flex plate, and have a rear driveshaft made. Good luck!

I'm sure the only reason it sold for that much is some high roller collector bought it for his kid, not really knowing what its worth, thinking the whole time that 15 grand is a drop in the bucket. Even though all of us know we could build one like it for a third of the cost. Slap some paint, a lift and big wheels on my rust free MJ and I could have one just like it! don't get your hopes up for all of them to sell for this much, though I'm sure some Idiot car dealers saw that and are thinking they can do the same thing now. We will just stand back and laugh, and watch as the truck goes unsold for years at a time.

The Jeep 2.5 used an AX5 and AX4. Its a much lighter trans. If this Dakota has the AX15 bellhousing, then you could probably swap a Jeep AX15 in just by swapping the bellhousing, though you would need to make sure input shafts are the same between them. Thsi could be a good swap too into a Jeep as the AX15 dakota 2.5 trans is much sought after!

I agree with the O2. Mine did the same thing for a long time after I bought it. It also sat for many years. I tried all the tune up stuff, fuel cleaner etc etc.... then popped a new O2 in and it ran great ever since. The factory had an 80000 mile service interval for them, so its probably due anyways.

If youre changing from a 4 cyl, to an 6 cyl, youll probably need to pull the dash anyways to swap computer wiring. That and there are also differences in regular dash wiring between years as well, with different connectors and pin locations... etc. The dash isnt that hard to pull, and once its out, its nothing to swap the HVAC box seeing as how the coolant is drained already anyways for the engine swap. That will also give you a chance to clean the thing out as they get pretty dirty over the years. When I swapped mine out for adding AC, it was full of mouse house and what have you. I cleaned it all up and doused the whole thing with Lysol to make sure it was all disinfected. I also cleaned up the blower motor and lubed the bearings in it at the same time. If you can swap anconvert engines and such, pulling a dash is nothing. You can keep the same outer dash, just change the electronics underneath and update as much of that as possible with your newer donor. If you get a 96 plus, youll have OBDII, and easier diagnostics for later on. Seriously, its not that much more work to do it all the right way the first time instead of trying to match up stuff piece by piece. Let us know what you figure out! And good luck!

If your donor is s 96 plus, yes, youll need to swap EVERYTHING from the donor.... all wiring, and HVAC box assy. The Xj rear wiring will need to be modified as well to make the MJ taillights work. You know about eh radiator core support, and the driveshaft... so thats about it.

Ive never had a good experience with a car salesman. I hope you can turn that image around for some people. I know they have a job to do, and with the way it works you have to do what you can to close the deal.... just it leaves a bad taste in my mouth most times. Thats the reason Ive never wanted to do that job. I'm a dealer tech at a Chrysler and Mazda dealership, and I wouldnt trust any of the people we have as far as I can throw them. There was one guy, but hes gone now. Good luck!

Just Bought the Bersa Thunder 380 Duo Tone. Have yet to shoot it, but going to try this weekend. All reviews Ive read have been great, and so was the price... $279.00.

The flow master 50series adds an extra chamber and is much mellower than the 40. I have one on my 2.5 with no drone through a gutted cat and 2 1/4" tailpipe with stock manifold. A little louder than stock at idle with a nice growl under load. My 2 cents.

If you don't realize it already, Ill add this just for clarification. You can't just slap a short bed on and lengthen the cab. If you do that, youll also need to move the rear axle back to match the bed. There may be a foot or so difference in bed length, but theres only 6-7 inches difference in wheelbase, so just tranfering a short bed on doesnt mean things are going to line up. Fuel filler and gas tank mounting will also be a consideration if doing this. BUT.... if you can do the fab of making an extended cab, you can do these other mods as well. Good luck, let us know what you end up doing!

Here is a great resource for them. I too love the Eagles and would love to have one. Enjoy! http://www.amceaglenest.com/

Didnt Toyota stop using a solid front axle in 85 or 86? Comanches kept the solid front axle through the production run in 1992, and continued on through the Cherokee through 2001 (or was ir 2002). I too have nothing against Toyotas. I was kinda looking for one (or an old Ford F-truck) when the Comanche fell in my lap. Its been love ever since... especially since finding this site. After watching Top Gear UK do what they did to that Toyota, you almost HAVE to respect them. Just like was said, Comanches are better! Welcome to the madness, and feel free to ask ANY questions you have.

I was dragged into the 20th century with a new MP3 player setup from the inlaws. A few new harley shirts, a pair of Levis, some Amazon gift cards..... thats about it. Bought the wife tickets to see Bill Cosby in concert in February. I'm curious to see how the Kobalt double drive wratchet works. I have had a bad experience with Kobalt 3/8" wratchet. Bought the 3/8 and 1/4 wratchets, and the 3/8 broke the first time I used it. Went through 5 of them that way before they refused to exchange it again. Gave me a phone number to call about it. It told me to leave a message and I would be contacted in 24-48 hours..... no one ever called. I finally found the receipt, took it back, asked for a manager, and got a gift card for full purchase price. So I'm a little leary.

NICE! Might have been a good time to add a drain plug too, but oh well! Keep it up!

I'm not sure how irrational this really is. Impractical maybe, but not necessarilly irrational. Mine would be an M715 mildly built. A rat rod from the '20's or '30's with an odd or wild engine... maybe even a Jeep Tornado 6. A well built air cooled VW sandrail... street legal of course. And my ultimate.... a replica 1955 Porsche 550 spyder.

I have a Flowmaster 50 series on mine with a gutted cat. Not loud or annoying, but has a nice growl under load, and is only slightly louder than stock with a smooth rumble at idle. I would do this setup again in a second if I ever get the chance.

http://www.allpar.com/news/index.php/2012/12/big-mopar-manual-sale Sale up to 80% off older chrysler service manuals. I know many of you may be interested in this.