dasbulliwagen

Yes the 2.5 is the same block and trans. The TJ has a different injection system than your MJ though. You could swap all the original stuff over from your old one though (intake, exhaust, sensors, acessories) and it will all be good. Stay away from the NP228. It is a nightmare of vacuum lines and not very strong. Someone else should chime in about the 242. Good luck!

^^^^ At my dealer we run into that sometimes as well. It usually means someone has changed the locks at some point, so not always the dealers fault. In that case you should remove the door cyinders and take them to the dealer and have them re keyed with new tumblers to match the key, ot have them look at whats in there to make a key to fit it. Most good locksmith shops can do this as well.

Take your registration and ID with you to the dealer and they can make you a new key just off your VIN. And as long as your old cylinder is still working maybe you can get a new one of those made too to make the whole thing new and fresh. I worry a little about a new VIN cut key and old tumbler set sometimes. The tumblers are brass as well and eventually wear too. In order to get it out easilly the key needs to be able to turn still in order to be able to press the release button for the cylinder.

No.

The Dodge Ram pickups have cables that break often. I was just thinking to myself the other day that I'm glad I have straps instead of failure prone cables. And I can say, Ive never really noticed the straps making any noise. But I bet I will now that you guys have brought it up.

That is shweet! Makes me want to build another one. I have a rusty but complete antique wagon I may do a rat job with. Might have to dig it out and get started on that!

The foot well lights are plug and play. Just screw them in and plug them in The connectors are already there. At least they were in mine. The other things I'm not sure about.

I forgot about this one too... junkyard upgrades thread from naxja. Good stuff! http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=951380

Other options you could seek out are the dash clock, or dash diagnostic/ warning light THING ( same location as clock), chrome trim, body painted fender flares, roll bar, add AC, add PS if it doesnt have it, add power mirrors, woodgrain dash trim, full console, floor lights, upgraded factory radio, cig lighter, fog lights, full time 4 wheel drive transfer case, non disco front axle, better gearing, dana 44 rear axle, metric tonne springs, limited slip diffs. These are all just factory option upgrades, Ive done several myself. I started out with a base model 2wd 4spd, rear bumper delete, radio delete, power steering delete, no AC, non vent wing, 2.5 Sportruck. Ive added PS, AC, PL, PW, vent wings, clock, radio, chrome bumpers (XJ rear with custom brackets), Wagoneer grille, 5 spd, 4wd, 4 :10 gearing, Limited lace style wheels (now JK Moab wheels), JK shocks front and rear, added electric fan conversion and Flowmaster muffler. Theres a lot of stuff you can do by getting bolt on options from XJ's. Some of the wiring for these options is already in the truck too, just isnt used. Good luck on your project.

Any year MJ or XJ AX5 and transfer case should bolt up no problem. It is said the the YJ and TJ models have the transfer case clocked differently and its more difficult to make them work. You can even get a set from an XJ or MjJ 2.8 V6, but that would have a less desireable transfer case. Keep an eye ou too for one with an external slave cylinder setup. 86 had that, but in 87 they changed to internal. They changed back later on, but I couldnt tell you what year it was. Get the front driveshaft with whatever one you get so you won't have to worry about that. Youll need to find a correct rear driveshaft or have yours shortened to fit. Youll also need a new speedo cable as the 2wd one will be too short, and get the shifter and linkage to match your transfer case so you won't have issues with transfer case shifting. Then as you know gear matched front and rear axles, preferably in 4 :10 flavor. Good luck.

That does seem way high especially for a not particularly well cared for Michigan truck. I'm originally from Battle Creek and that looks like a nice truck for the area but I bet the floors are shot. I'm biased too because I paid a total of $375 for the two MJ's I have, one of which was and is a driver. I got lucky though. I know pickings will be thin up there though, so if this truck is as nice as it looks it might still be your best option. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

I say cluster because it would match all other exusting electronics and be plug and play. You need to change the dash wiring anyways, so it probably won't play well with the old cluster.

There was an extra one of these in my truck when I bought it. I've never really known why but I've also never heard of this being an issue. One more thing to keep an eye on I guess.

Check the grounds too. The one going from the battery to the engine block goes bad often and can cause all kinds of issues. Usually it is a combination of the cable going bad and the ground point at the block being corroded. When I got mine I had a similar issue, it ended up being the battery cable ends on the battery. They looked fine, but were corroded enough to make it not start or not charge. A good cleaning fixed that. Good luck and let us know what you find.

I don't think you need to swap the block and head, just the intake and make a plug for the old EGR port in the exhaust manifold. Then all engine and dash wiring and instrument cluster. You may need the HVAC box as well if it is a different style. You can get all this from an MJ or an XJ. The issue though with the XJ would be adapting the front harness to the rear harness and MJ lights. There is a write up about that somewhere. Youll also need a new fuel pump for the higher fuel pressure of the later system.

WOW, thats weird. I'm not sure how she would know either. Especially since the XJ's had been built since late 83 as 84 Models. Might be worth going back to ask the lady how or why she knows that, just for your reference.

The last 6 of the VIN show the production numers in sequence, but they were tied in with the XJs as well so theres really no way to tell Comanche specific.

Not that I'm anywhere near there, but what is this place that has Comanche parts? And I love the black cat, by the way!

First off, WELCOME! Secondly, there are several nutz on here that would really like to know your build date being a 92 and all. If you don't have it, post or PM me your VIN number and Ill run it through Chrysler for you to get the exact date for you. I'm a Dealer tech and have access just so you know I'm not trying to do anyting weird! Again... Welcome to the madness.

During cash for clunkers, I got whole power door assemblies from an 86. Luckily they were the same color as my truck. I took the interior wire connectors as well so I could make a harness. I got the locks and windows working, but left the power mirrors alone because they didnt work anyways, but I have all the connectors and the switches to do it if I want to in the future. I used the downloadable 1988 factory service manual to build the cross body harness and make it all work. Its a great upgrade. I love it.

Looking at mine recently, I saw there is a body seam right there on the lower rear edge. I don't think youd be able to mount them with that in the way and be able to gain any clearance without lifting it.

We looked up his build date in another thread. I beleive it wa in April of 92.definitely one of the last.

A lot of modern AC compressors are built on that design, or something similar. I never thought or wondered if something like that would make a good gas engine, but looks pretty cool. makes me wonder too if it would be possible to control valve timing like most modern variable valve timing systems on conventional engines.

If youre planning the 4x4 swap, I would keep the 4 .10 axles and find a good AX5. Might even be cheaper that way than having new gears set up. That way too you can use the fronbt axle from the donor as well as is.

I think its good youre trying to find ideas like this, but a rotary is not a good idea. I'm a Mazda dealer tech, and most of the RX8's that come in have had 2 or 3 motors put in under warranty within 80000 miles. And like was said, power isn't made until the higher RPM's (5-10K). They are fun to drive though, but I wouldn't own one. We actually considered buying one before I was with Mazda.... glad I didn't! They are beautiful cars, but at the time the price put us off. Your best be is to go with whats proven. That way youll still get to drive the thing and not mess with finding or making custom parts that may or may not work for an engine that never been swapped into an MJ before. Good luck, and let us know what you end up doing!