dasbulliwagen

This should be moved to the pub.... or at least copied there as information as to what our trucks can sell for.

Traded the bike in sig for this truck. The values were actually pretty close. The bike has been sitting for 7 years and needs $1000 of stuff done to bring it back to right again and is only worth about $2500 in good condition. The truck is worth about $1000-1500 as it sits even not running, and value on it goes up from there as it is fixed up. It is a 60 F100 4x4 longbed stepside. There were less than a thousand built in that combo that year. It is rough but fixable and all the repair parts are still available. Makes a big difference restoring an old Ford compared to whats available still for our Comanches. The engine in it is locked up solid, but Ive already bought another that is buildable and supposedly OK. Still intend on going through it to check everything out. The block casting numbers say it could be either a 292 or a 312 Y block. Ill need to pull the pan in order to find out. The PO says it came from a car originally so I think theres a 50-50 chance its the sought after 312. Thefront axle is a driver drop Dana 44 closed knuckle, and the knuckle bearings are shot. The rear is a 9 inch. I'm worried too because inside a box that was in the cab were a couple of spider gears. There might be an axle swap in this trucks future if there are too many issues with them. I found out too a coworker buddy of mine has 3 of these sitting hes parting out, (2wd's) so I got that going for me! Anyways, here's a few pics.

Vehicle Sale Information Selling Dealer: C9835 - RENFREW CHRYSLER INC. Sales Type: 5 - LEASE-INDEPENDENT COMPANY City: CALGARY State/Province: AB Country: CAN Telephone: (403)266-1920 Vehicle Service Information Year/Model: 1990 JEEP COMANCHE Last Odometer: 136,200 kilometers on August 25, 1994 Body Style: MJJL62 In-Service Date: December 13, 1989 Engine: ERB-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE In-Service Odometer: 0 kilometers Transmission: DDQ-5-Speed Manual Transmission Odometer Type: kilometers Color 1: PS3-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE Car Line: P Color 2: QS3-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE Build Date: November 16, 1989 Current Market Register: C Hour: 16 Standard Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description APAS Monotone Paint BGAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes CSRS Passenger Assist Handles CUMS Mini Floor Console DHNS Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System DJHS 230MM Front Axle DMMS 3.07 Rear Axle Ratio GACS Tinted Glass Windows GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass GEHS Fixed Door Vent Glass GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror GTZS Manual Remote Mirrors JDBS 180 KPH Primary Speedometer K3DS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE LAPS Shift Indicator Warning Lamp LBCS Glove Box Lamp LCJS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE LMAS Halogen Headlamps LMKS Daytime Running Headlamps, High Beam MB1S Black Front Bumper MDAS Front License Plate Bracket MMCS Rear Door Solid Window Insert MMGS Belt Moldings NAAS Federal Emissions NBKS EVAP Control System NF5S DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE NHKS Engine Block Heater QS3S DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering TBMS Tire Carrier Winch XBSS Pickup Box YACS Build To Canada Mkt. Specifications 1AJS Canada Fleet 125S Zone 25-Canada-Alberta 4FMS Fleet Option Editor Optional Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description *X1 DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE -SA DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE ACC Southwest Edition ADA Light Group ADH Heavy Duty Electrical Group ADLA Skid Plate Group ARL 300 Premium Group BA1P DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE BCYP DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE CBAP Straight Back Bench Seat CKAP Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area DBBC All Manual Transmissions DDQ 5-Speed Manual Transmission DRKP Dana 44/226MM Rear Axle ERB DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE GFDA Rear Sliding Window GNBP Driver Side Illuminated Sun Visor GNCP Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors GRZP Left Remote Mirror GSZP Right Remote Control Mirror HAA Air Conditioning JAYA Instrument Cluster w/Tach JGBP Digital Clock JHAA Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JJAP Cigar Lighter KKEP DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE K2XP DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE LAJP Headlamps On Warning Chimes LBBP Courtesy Lamps LBDP Ash Tray Lamp LBEP Cigar Lighter LDHP U/Hood, Removable/Rechargeable Lamp LHDP Headlamp Off Time Delay MBJP Black Front Bumper MFGP Body Color Headlamp Bezels MHAP Black Windshield Moldings MMKP Hi Black Gloss/Black Mirror Molding PS3 DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles RABP AM/FM Radio RCDP 4 Speakers SCEP Alcantara Wrap Steering Wheel SFBP Front Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers SGBP Rear Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers SUA Tilt Steering Column TAAC All Tires TBBP Full Size Spare Tire TRPA 225/70R19.5G All Pos Traction Tires WJDP 15X7.0 Styled Steel Wheels WLYC All Steel Wheels YGAA Without Billable Fuel Z01P Rear Spring Group I Z5B Payload Rating - 1800# Z58P Left Front Spring Group Viii Z78P Right Front Spring Group VIII 3N8A Drive Away Program Tracking 4CPA Federal A/C Excise Tax 4EAA Sold Vehicle 4FK Fleet Government Sale

if you look up my build thread "Comanche Limited" youll see the custom mounts I made to mount an XJ rear bumper on my truck. It wasn't that hard to do, I'm sure they could be easily dupluicated by someone willing to do it.

It has been done by a member on this site. My recollection is that he couldn't keep trannys in it for very long. The next weak point after that is the rear end if you have a dana 35. Look up build threads by jeepcomj and you should find some info.

Just a minor update to get back to the top. Added a junkyard ZJ steering box. That made a difference in the quickness of the steering. Went from 3 1/2 lock to lock, to 2 1/2 lock to lock. The old box was leaking too so it was time. I'm now getting an intermittent pump noise, but it otherwise works good. I also started adding WJ control arms. The grinding and cutting process is taking much longer than I anticipated, so I only have one on there right now. I need to do the others pretty soon. Just never enough time. I also took a bottle of Clorox bleach cleaner spray to it to get rid of the moldy look on the old faded white paint. It looks better now than it ever has since Ive owned it. But overall it just slow but sure progress on the old girl. I don't see myself ever getting rid of it, so I have time.

Ive always thought that the amount anyone would give me for it would never be enough for me to be able to replace it properly. That and I really don't have much into mine as it sits. Id NEVER be able to do it again for what I actually have spent.

I agree that most of us here wouldn't be in the market for a NEW Jeep pickup at $20-30,000 plus. We love our old trucks here which is the whole point of this forum. We are not the target market for new trucks, and even though we are highly opinionated on the new stuff, what we think doesn't matter. I do think it would be great to have a new truck, but as was said, a full size is too big for my needs and Id be too afraid to hurt or scratch/dent a new truck I was making huge payments on. It makes more sense for me to have an older small truck I can fix myself and not worry about, and spend the new car money on our family's daily and long trip commuter. We can all just hope though that they will make some cool stuff now so that maybe we can afford one down the road.

Any update on this? The new Durango is a really good looking truck. It is basically an extended WK2 Grand Cherokee platform to make room for a third row of seats. Yes the 3.6 head issues were fixed by then as stated. We haven't seen any out of the ordinary issues with them, and I wouldn't mind having one myself.

don't forget the O2 sensor. I chased issues on mine after I got it that all went away after putting a new O2sensor on it.

The windows, mirrors, and locks not working is a common problem. The wires in the harness that runs between the driver door and the lower A pillar like to break, especially the black one and the blue one. The black one I think is the ground for all those things. Pull the rubber boot back and start pulling on the wires and I'm sure youll fine one or two broken. Ive fixed many of those at the dealership and its the first place we look when one comes in like that. Ive seen passenger side wires break too, but its much less common.

All the original intake and other parts should swap directly onto your "new" long block assy. A was said, swap the intake, accessory mounts, distributor and all sensors over and it should work fine. Good luck.

For tons of 2.5 info you can check out www.4bangerjp.com lot of 2.5 specific info there.

Those turns were box out of truck on bench.

I did this conversion a couple weeks ago. Went from 3 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns lock to lock. Its a nice upgrade.

I paid $125 for an entire 86 MJ donor with a bad 2.8 that had good 4.10 axles and a ton of other goodies. Sorry. Had to brag. The axles and a bunch of other goodies from it are in my 87.

I really don't beleive that they will put a Wrangler front end on this when it comes out. Hopefully it will look similar to the Nukizer concept... more jeep truck like than Wrangler like.

I see what youre talking about now trimming the arms. I hadnt considered that part. Ill recheck that area as well.

Pete, is the second pic showing that you hammered the top of the arms flatter to increase clearance? I think maybe that combined with proper trimming should do the trick. I plan to do the upper arms as well and plan to do the body clearancing as shown in the other post. I just always assumed the lower arms were bolt in after grinding the bushings as I've never read any different here or elsewhere. Its all good though. It will work out.

Started working on my WJ arm conversion last night. I ground the bushings down properly but ran into clearance issues on the axle end. The upper side of the lower arm ran into the shock mount bracket at the axle. I did a little trimming and clearancing with a hammer but I still think there should be more room there for full suspension travel. Ive never read of this being an issue during this conversion. Has anyone else run into this? I only did one of the lower arms last night as I ran out of time. Thanks.

Hard to believe its been over a year since the last reply to this thread. It used to be the most popular thread here. I haven't been on much lately either. Been busy researching my latest project a 1960 Ford F100 4x4. I still have plans for the MJ though. I just installed a ZJ steering box. Went from 3 1/2 turns lock to lock to 2 1/2. Nice upgrade. Tommorow ill be installing new Moog WJ upper and lower control arms. I also have a WJ rear sway bar I may try to fit at some point.

I got a deal on some NOS Mopar 15w40 diesel oil a couple years ago (11 gallons for $40). Ive been using it ever since. Seems to be doing good.

www.4bangerjp.com has lots of info specific to the 2.5. They deal mostly with the port injected models of 91 on up, but the base longblock is the same. I don't go off road, but mine does all I ask of it. Ive gutted and sleeved the cat, removed the engine driven fan and installed a controlled electric one, added a "cold " air intake. It has pepped up a little but you still have to remember you only have a 4 cyl. I have a stainless header and Mopar stage 3 cam to put into a 2.5 rebuild in the future as well. And like was said, its an (relatively) easy swap out for the 4.0 if you want that in the future.

The 11-13 models have the NAG1 (W5A580) trans that chrysler has been liscencing from Mercedes since at least 2005. It has been around for a long time and is a decent trans.

I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as you adapt everything you need to keep the computer happy. I would like to try this myself when I build my spare engine for my 87.