dasbulliwagen

1988 Jeep Comanche Pioneer Olympic Edition SWB No pic 4.0 AW4 NP231 30/35 186,484 miles as of 6/10 All stock, no rust, Blue bench seat interior, white exterior Located in Asheboro, NC Owner: Jerry B. (for sale for the right price)

I bet if you walk in there with $3000 CASH youd probably get it. :thumbsup:

If youre gonna swap in a 4.3, why not make it a 305, or a 327, or a 350, or a 383, or a 400???? Same amount of work, and chances are, youll have overheating issues with the 4.3 as well as any of the others. Now if you kept it down to a 3.1, or a 3.4, they would bolt up to your existing transmission. And there are ways to keep the injection with them as a stand alone system. A 4.0 would be easier than the 4.3 as you know all of what it would take to do the job, and everyone here would be able to help out, as its been done many times. The 4.3 has also been done, but its nowhere near being a bolt in and go situation. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

Found out this morning that I still have DW. Though its not as bad as it was before. I ordered some factory front caster shims yesterday to prepare for setting my front caster where it should be, the dealer is the ONLY place Ive seen them being sold, as I really don't feel like making my own, and picked up my second new right outer tie rod end from autozone... hopefully this one is made right. And my buddy is looking for the rear chevy drop shackles he has so I can install them as well. Ill get my new rod end in, and the rear shackles, then I can set the caster and re align the front end again. Hopefully this will help the DW.... if not, its time to go shopping again for more parts.

My truck also has two sets of plate wires, one for a single light setup for use with no bumper, and two more for dual lights on a step bumper. Theyve been unhooked for twenty some years, just leave them alone!

FOUR THOUSAND DOLLARS!!!!!!!!!?????????? HOLY MOLEY! I wonder what he'll ask after he does more mods, because theres no way hes gonna sell it like that, for that price! People (in general) are idiots, especially when they are either uninformed, or overinformed....like this guy, whichever one he is. His attitude oozing from the ad doesnt help things either. Good luck buddy! :nuts:

Did those have a mechanical fuel pump? If so, go get a can of starting fluid, spray a little in the carb, and start it. Its possible you lost fuel prime, and the slow cranking isnt enough to pull fuel up fast enough to get gas in the carb. Once you have it running a little on the starting fluid, the engine will turn over faster, and the fuel should be pulled up and into the carb where it SHOULD then run on its own. It might take a few tries to get to the point it will run by itself. Good luck, let us know what happens.

Get the VIN for the registry.

This brings to mind the old adage " Be careful what you wish for.... it might come true." Good save Jim! And thanks for thinking of us Mike!

The painted windshield trim is original from the factory, mine is doing the same thing. I pulled a set of unpainted trim from a CFC Wagoneer and will install it soon. Not sure how easy it will be to remove the original paint. Good luck.

And....... :needpics:

:USAflag: You better start working out right now to get in shape for boot.... get a gym membership, and tell them what youre doing and have them whip you into shape before you go, watch "Full metal jacket" 100 times and get your mind ready too. :thumbsup:

:clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

The mirror adjuster is not in that switch, it is usually mounted in the center console. I need a 2 door switch also, but I'm in no hurry, as the 4 door one works just fine.

:popcorn: I can't wait to see how this turns out!

1987 Jeep Comanche Chief No Pic 4.0 AW4 NP231 30/35 SWB Build date: illegible Current Location: Asheboro, NC Status: Daily driver, single family owned Notes: All stock, blue bucket seat interior, white exterior Current owner: Tommy L. 104,000 miles as of 6/10

With no codes and a running problem, I might look at fuel too. Sounds like it might be getting pressure on startup, but maybe the fuel pump slowly slows down till it can't push enough fuel to keep it going. When it starts sputtering after running for a while, jump out and hammer on the bottom of the fuel tank, see if it comes back to running OK. If it does, then you know you need a fuel pump, either that or theres a bunch of crud in the tank building up on the pump filter sock, restricting flow enough to cause this problem. Then after it stalls, the stuff falls off, and starts over. Good luck!

I'm not sure, mine were on an 86 wagoneer, I just took the whole doors, as they were the same color, had the vents, power locks and power windows, and power mirrors. Mine are really the only ones Ive ever seen, but it is likely that you would find them on XJ's from 1984-1996....probably the earlier the more likey it would have them.

Find a cherokee donor in the junkyard that has them. From what I hear they were pretty leaky, so most people got rid of them. I just installed Cherokee (Wagoneer) front doors with them and mine don't leak yet, so I guess it would depend on if the seals look like they are any good or not. Good luck.

I agree, if your getting DW after the lift and your Caster is only 5 degrees. Could defineately be a large contributing factor. Couple other comments confuse me. Nothing you could do to the shackles will have anything to do with the front end of your truck. Camber is not adjustable. Unless you want to try those fancy balljoints. As for shims, you can make them if you cannot find them to purchace. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm Good luck, CW If I put bigger shackles on the rear, it raises the rear end in relation to the front, thus affecting caster angle negatively. Thanks for the shim link!

The final scene from the original Gone in 60 seconds is great, but I also LOVE the final chase scene form The Blues Brothers! I just love how many cop cars they wrecked for that! We've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, its dark, and we're wearing sunglasses..... HIT IT!

That is the famous, or should I say IMFAMOUS Bendix ABS installed in early 90's Jeeps and Chryslers. It was a horrible system that was prone to failure.... so much so that Chrysler implemented a lifetime warranty recall of the systems. The round bulb is an accumulator that stores pressure built up by an electric pump just in case you loose power to the system. But most of the time the pump goes bad and you don't get pressure at all, or when the pump goes bad, it burns up the almost innaccessible fuse link, and any other fuse link near it, or the seals go bad, and the pump runs constantly causing it to burn up.... you see where I'm going. About all that may be good of this system is the front axle shafts are supposed to be the ones with the bigger U-joints.

Probably 5 minutes or more, at least. The coolant has to get up past 195F to open the thermostat. A better indicator to know if you have air or not is the coolant bypass hoses that go to the intake manifold fittings and the heater core. If those are getting warm quickly, and youre getting heat inside quickly, then you probably don't have an air bubble problem. If the upper rad hose doesnt ever want to get hot, Id look at the thermostat maybe being stuck closed. Good luck, let us know what you find.

Went into work this morning to install my new tie rod ends. Got my old ones out no problem, went and assembled the new ones and tried to install the right side rod, and it wouldnt bend up far enough to attach to the pitman arm. Turns out the joint end wasnt machined correctly to allow the ball to have enough articulation in that direction. So I assembled it all with the old rod, and new ends at the other three locations, and put it on the alignment rack. I eyeballed it pretty darn good while assembling, as the cross rod to the left side took little to no adjustment to get the two sides parallel. The toes is almost perfect, the camber is a little negative on both sides but not enough to worry too much about, and the caster is just under 5 degrees. Less than I would like it to be, and it will probably be worse once I put on my new shackles on the rear. I need to find some caster shims and get another right side rod end, and new rear shackles and Ill align it again. Finished up and drove it, the steering wheel isnt perfectly straight but it rides much smoother than before. It will be much better I think once I get the caster where it should be. The machine says it should be 7-8 degrees. I'm not sure yet if any of this has taken care of any DW since putting in the dana 30 front axle, but I guess Ill find out soon enough.

Have you priced any of this stuff yet? Once you get the molds made, it would all be downhill from there. Make left and right insides, and left and right outsides, drill holes where needed, and glue the halves together. I know it sounds easy, but it would be a ton of work. Might be worth it if you could sell them for anything close to what good used ones are going for. Bad thing is a good set would have to be sacrificed to be split for the molds.