FrankTheDog

Posted 21 days ago, ad says or best offer. Offer them $2,500 and see what they come back with. Have $3,000 on you and offer that if they don't accept the $2,500. If you do make the offer make sure you have the cash in hand.

As far as mileage, some are better than others. Mine have averaged from 18-23 mpg stick or auto. Expect 19 -20 with it. If it's very clean and rust free with no issues in reality that is a fair price. Try finding a better vehicle than an XJ for that price.

If it has a clean body and a decent price and it runs ok and doesn't overheat and all the lights and accessories work there probably isn't that much wrong with it and he just doesn't want to mess with it anymore. Don't let a nice vehicle slip away. I just bought a mostly straight and rust free (rockers are starting to go) 99 XJ for $400. All I did was put a battery in and tighten the gas cap and the cel went away. All that's left to fix is passenger side window regulator and an airbag light. Don't be afraid.

Not a limited slip and not a full locker. Not a spool. It's a locker that replaces the spider gears in your open carrier. Follow the links in this thread and you'll get a better idea of what it is.

What temps were you getting with the IR gun? It still sounds like its solely a gauge/sender problem. Nothing to do with actually overheating. Leave your thermostat alone until you post the temps you were getting.

So is it overheating or is it just the temperature gauge. What did you find for temps with the IR? I did the same thing with my 92, I took out the idiot gauge and put a full gauge out of an XJ in . Holy moly, it's running at the red! Changed the whole cooling system out and no change. Used my brothers IR gun and found 210 at the thermostat. Stopped worrying about it after that, it's been fine for three years now with just the gauge reading off.

2wd's made after January 20th of 1992 also have unit bearings.

Brought to you by the people that say front wheel drive is superior. As I plowed into countless snow banks with FWD that I could of easily avoided with a rear wheel drive vehicle. I'm with Eagle, better tread in front. I've never had a problem with the rear coming around on me like the article describes.

I had an 87 XJ Wagoneer that had a class three hitch that had the bumper reinforcement plate on it. It looked like a standard class three otherwise.

Put an old set of injectors in. They're designed to fit the hole. It may be a little butch but it'll work.

I guess that's the difference between California and New England. You guys have tons of rust free bodies and not enough engines and we have drivetrains galore here with not enough decent bodies to go around. I just brought home a nice running 1999 XJ today that I bought for $400 dollars. It has what we consider light rust and it didn't pass inspection because of a check engine light(gas cap) and an airbag light. Runs mint with 163k on it. I'm going to put it on the road the way it is.

3.73's or 4.10's if you go to a 32" tire. Rubicons come stock with 4.10 gears and 31" tires so they'll work just fine. You can always find a 4 cylinder TJ front end that has 4.10's in it. That's what I'm running in my 92 MJ. TJ Dana 30 4.10 front. MJ 4.10 Dana 35 rear. It has 265/70/16's on it and it's really peppy.

Look for XJ's on Craigslist for $500 or less and you have a good chance of getting a good motor with lots of spare parts. I just but a mostly rust free 1999 XJ for $400. The way the ad was written and the way the pictures were taken it didn't look special and may have scared people off. The only thing "wrong" with the jeep is the hood is bent, the airbag light is on and the cel has a code for a large evap leak which is probably the gas cap. No evidence at all of it being in a wreck. Has a clear title. So they are out there as I have 5 daily drivers in the family that I picked up for less than $700.

Vin number. Google jeep vin decoder and it will decode your vin for you.

Is there oil in the pan? Sometimes we forget the simple stuff. Also I thought when installing a new pump or starting a new engine you were supposed to prime by spinning the oil pump through the distributor hole.

Why would you prefer to use a temporary spare when using a regular tire is correct also?

It possibly came with 195/75/15's I've seen that on the glovebox stickers. Mine had 205's on it when I bought it. It was really peppy. 92 4.05spd 3.07's

ZJ canyons are 15x7. TJ canyons are 15x8.

A Goodyear wrangler from Walmart on a steel wheel will be as original as you'll find unless you find an unused spare from an XJ of that era. Which I happen to have. It's an aluminum five spoke with a Goodyear Wrangler on it. It came out of an XJ wagoneer limited, was never uncovered since 1987. Has the proper 215/75/15 size.

Don't bother, it's nowhere near as good as having a regular tire under there. Out of all the jeeps I've had only one had one of the full size temp spares and it's rather anemic looking. I probably still have it in my shed, it's on a CJ-8 stock spare tire roll bar mount.

If your cat is plugged that could hamper performance. Does it sound like it has to much back pressure? If it's not plugged I wouldn't worry about it.

With a real quiet exhaust you can really rev it without making to much commotion. I have a huge muffler on my 4.0HO 5 speed MJ and I sometimes accidentally leave it in third and I don't catch it until I look at the tach and see it at 3500 or so. With 3.07's and 30/9.50/15's I rarely take it out of fourth.

Use the 33/12.50/15 for comparison, it'll be close enough.

I'm at work and I knew where it was off the top of my head. Not compuker savvy enough to link it.

It's pinned in the DIY section.