FrankTheDog

I've had AW4's go over 250k on the original fluid. They were kept full though. It is a pretty tough transmission and it held up to me delivering pizza. I don't mind if they come with sticks or autos they are both excellent transmissions.

Correction to above, you will need a master and external slave combo out of a 94-96. 97 and up mount differently to work with the newer firewall in 97 and up.

So shiny, so chrome.

It may last longer in your climate. Last two winters it saw a lot of salty winter weather. That probably hastened it's demise.

91-92 two wire. Standard motor products speed sensor. Cheap parts. Is it possible to get a mopar speed sensor?

Two wire vss on the 92's. Mine does the same exact thing. The tell tale is that the truck works fine for a year or two then the speedo starts jumping around and it stalls if you're not paying attention. It did the same with the old sensor. I know if I put in a new sensor it'll stop for a while.

100k on my ax15 with mobil 1 10w-30. 280k total on transmission. Shifts smooth with no issues. YMMV

Check your local prices for 96-98 4.0's. You may be able to get a complete engine for about what you would spend fixing that head gasket.

There is a coolant drain on the side of the block under the manifolds. Drain your coolant out there. Then after you take the thermostat housing off mop up any remaining coolant making sure it is dry and clean. Then I use Permatex tacky gasket in a spray can and lightly coat both metal surfaces and set the gasket on the housing with the bolts holding it in place. Follow the directions on the can, it needs a few minutes of drying time. The tacky gasket is enough to hold the thermostat in place. Make sure you use a 195 degree stat with a bleeder in it.

Who's house is it? Are you making the mortgage payments? If so, then you do as you please. To mount it to the wall, mount a front wheel bearing to a plate and screw the plate to the wall. That way the tire can spin.

I have a mint 1987 aluminum wheel with unused tire on it I'd give you to fill up that wheel well. Just would need some kind of Comanche Club express to get from CT to GA.

Did you follow the proper procedure to bleed the rear brakes with the proportioning valve? It is outlined somewhere on this site.

I have run with and without isolaters with spacers and could never tell the difference. I have also stacked isolaters to adjust it incrementally.

Castrol syntec 10w-30. Change it spring and fall. Usually between 6,000 and 14,000 miles between oil changes. I use Wix 51515 filter or Napa Gold 1515 which is also a wix. My 4.0 HO's have between 200k and 441k on original engines. They probably leak more than they burn. Usially add a quart around 3,500 miles.

X2 on the spray a gasket.

As in 70's style ford mirrors or modern truck tow mirrors? The modern mirrors would be overwhelmingly large. If you could get them on.

To use 97 and up dash requires you to change to 97 and up electronics and major firewall mods. Stick with just the sheetmetal on the nose.

Always bump in 3rd high range. First you'll just skid. I have a 92 MJ 4.0, the speed sensor is intermittent so when I slow down for a stop quite often it stalls. I usually catch it and bump start it as I'm coming to a stop. Third works best. I have lots of practice bump starting.

I have put a 100k on my 130k 98 AX15 and it still is going strong. Original AX15 went 340k. Don't rest your hand on the shifter when you are driving. That wears parts out. Also no heavy shift knobs like the rocks or hand grenades that they sell.

In FSM and in Luk clutch instructions you leave the straps alone until it's time to step on the clutch.

Friend picked up a 2000 XJ for $75 delivered. Mechanic he bought it from said it was knocking real bad. He went to swap the motor and when he went to loosen the torque convertor bolts he found them all loose. He asked me what he should do because the engine was already to pull. I told him to put it all back together and start it and see. No more knock. My 92 MJ has a slight knock that was much worse when I bought it 5 years and 100k ago. I just kept driving it and figured I'd worry about it when it failed. Hasn't yet.

I'd love a four door pickup. In a one ton. I'd be interested in a two door if I wasn't such a cheap bastard.

If it's straight and rust free I'd gladly pay that. Even if the motor was blown. I have a stockpile of 4.0 HO's because of all the rotted XJ's I aquire.

Does the fuel pump still work? If it's cheap and in good condition body wise buy it and just get a factory service manual and start testing everything.

6 MJ's so far none had AC. 10 daily driver XJ's and a dozen or so parts XJ's and all had AC. Also 1 2wd XJ and 3 2wd MJ's.