FrankTheDog

Really? I have a 1998 XJ with 446,000 miles on it on the original engine. I bought it with 209k. It went anywhere from 6,000 to 15,000 between oil changes using Castrol 10-30 in the white, green or black jugs depending how much I felt like spending. Used fram orange ph8a, motorcraft fl1 and wix equivalents. The thing leaks plenty but doesn't burn it as there is no burnt oil smell coming from the tailpipe. It was driven hard and put away wet most of the time. I drive all my vehicles pretty much the same way and I have never lost or worn out a motor. The vehicles get stopped being used because of rust not wear. I have 4 good 4.0 HO's on hand in case I ever need a replacement but I haven't yet.

Change mine once a year with castrol syntec 10-30. I run either the motorcraft F1 filter or napa/wix equivalent. I average between 11,000 and 15,000 between changes. Gets about 3 or 4 quarts added during that time. Have used the castrol syntec eurocar 0-40 weight too with no noted differences.

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There is a 2000 XJ on Atlanta craigslist for $10,500 it's been on there for more than a month. Has a 6.0 that has been built some. The jeep itself looks pretty clean. The swap itself without labor has probably well over $5,000 into it l.

What size tire?

Yes, with cad there isn't one on the passenger side of the diff housing just in the cad.

I have 31's with 3.07's on a 92. I just don't use 5th gear as much. Come to any kind of hill on the highway and it get's shifted down. If not going any bigger than 31's 3.73's are a good ratio.

To be even more accurate, measure from the ground to the center of the axle and multiply it by 2. That will give you your rolling diameter which will be less than your overall height.

Probably even less of them then there are 2.5 XJ's.

I paid $400 for a complete 1995 Wrangler with a good running 2.5 in it that I'm installing in my 2000 XJ.

96-2002 Dakotas had them.

Inner seal on your axle shaft is leaking gear oil.

235's will be fine, the YJ lines work good. I have both on my 92 with a similar setup. You may have to mess with the weight sensing valve on the rear axle some.

Luk flywheels are only $45 on rock auto. I don't think you're going to find a machinist that'll do it correctly for less than that.

Whatever you are looking for, try to find one that belonged to a long time first owner or a second owner that bought it with low miles and kept for a long time. Don't be afraid of high miles if the condition is there. If somebody keeps a car for a long time it's usually because it was a good one.

I live in a very hilly area with very little open road driving. That's probably why I get better mileage with 4.10's than 3.07's.

The 2.8 doesn't have enough power to be useful under 3,000 rpm you're going to have to spin it if you want to go anywhere especially uphill. Listen to Eagle.

Clutch shouldn't have slipped at all ever, wether in 2 or 4wd.

Good to know. Guess I'll just stick with doing my own with cunifer.

Passenger front line is a real b*@$£ to get right. The rest aren't to bad. Classic tube sells a set of prebent stainless lines for $240. I don't know anything about them though.

Novak is top of the line parts. You shouldn't have any vibration as long as you don't have to much lift and your driveshaft angle is correct.

Loaded header panel in your color can be found for under $200. Loaded fender under $125. Complete bumper with painted ends under $150. Find out if insurance and autobody place will work with you by using used parts. The goal should be to keep it on the road in working condition. Not returned to mint condition at this point.

I have all those parts in a different color that would get it driving again for no cost. Except fog light which could be found in a yard. Don't make a claim if you want to keep it.

Is the unibody bent at all under the damaged area's? I have my wife's nephews 2000 XJ that was totaled with damage to the drivers fender, bumper and header. My ex son in law bought it from him and he replaced the damaged parts with parts of the same color found on car-part.com. I did the part searching and driving for him I ended up spending under $500 for all the parts. There was slight damage to the unibody that he hammered out and it is back to stock looking with a minor trim difference on the fender. Avoid having it totaled at all costs. If there is no or only slight unibody damage it should be able to be fixed for under $1000. Send detailed pictures to my email if you can. I have a patriot blue header you can have. It's not perfect but nice ones are out there.

All 4 of my ZJ's had ujoints. ZJ's with NP231's and 242's have ujoints. All had ABS.