jeepcoma

Hey! Sounds like my truck! :D

Wasn't me. Lucky for my wallet.

I didn't shorten mine when I swapped in a D44. :dunno:

Looks nice. Anyone else bidding on it here? I will but not for much more than the starting price, I shouldn't be bidding on it in the first place at this point in time (curse you CC for ruining my wallet :fs1: ) but for a bargain price I can't pass it up.

I noticed the tach isn't moving while cranking. Is that normal? I'm not positive on these Jeeps but in most vehicles I know the tach feed is directly from the coil, so no tach means no spark. I've heard a lot about the CPS stuff does this correlate with what usually happens with those? Unfortunately you were giving a nice view of the steering column when it started so I couldn't see what it was doing when it briefly ran.

Not sure of an exact answer for you, but I also had to modify the mounting bracket when swapping from my '91 D35 to an '88 D44. I used the top bolt hole in the mounting plate as a guide for the upper bolt mount and then drilled a second hole for the lower mount. The new location didn't quite line up exactly with the previous bias, so I choose to go with the upper mount to give slightly more rear-brake bias. I figured that the heavy cap I have on plus the slightly better front brakes would require a bit more rear brake to balance out, and it seems to be working pretty well. I haven't had any lockup issues even when trying to lock it up in the snow, so I'm content to leave it, although I was thinking of possibly rigging up a turnbuckle to be able to adjust it as necessary.

I really like http://www.crazedlist.org/ No fancy features to get in the way, just a simple thing that works the way you'd expect. Select individual locations to search or use the drop-down menu for general geographic areas and fine tune as you wish.

I've got Aussie lockers front and rear and love them, plus a non-CAD front axle. No problems for me except revealing trashed bushings that need replacement.

Looks great except for the floors (and 4cyl/auto)! I found a very similar one in CT when I was looking to buy one, it was absolutely great, then he changed his mind about selling it. I've seen quite a few plow trucks in excellent shape like this.

Saranac Imperial Stout

Here's one...

'86, 2wd, 4cyl, dummy gauges? $2400 seems a bit steep (I see $2650 on the windshield). But it does look very clean. Does it say 81k miles? The better question is, is it worth it to you? If it literally needs nothing, it might be worth that. You'll pay less for a crusty one, but you'll easily sink more than the difference in to fixing it up, also depending on how much time and effort you want to put into it.

One person's knock is another's ping, so it makes it more interesting to figure out what's going on. Another thought I had, is that cracked exhaust manifolds are fairly common on these (I think, correct if wrong). Depending on where and how it's cracked, it could make some "puff", "tick", or "rapping" type sound, that would be louder when cold and lessen as the manifold heats up (but never goes away if the hole is large enough).

^ wow, very informative. Now I want a CB too! :D

Yeah I like my bench. I specifically was looking for a Comanche with a bench seat, so was happy when I found one. It's pretty dirty on the outside, but still comfortable. I'm hoping to pick up a mint one that someone has tossed out converting to buckets. If I need a cupholder I just bring my wife along and make her hold it.

Mine's pretty noisy at idle since I change the oil, once it's warmed up and the oil pressure is down a bit it seems to quiet down so I'm figuring just lifter noise, which I'll try to compare with next time I change it. I'm not worried about it, especially since it goes away above idle. If it were a real knock problem I wouldn't expect it to go away after warming up.

Let's see... inexpensive, can fit lots of people, is not a truck, pretty unique, earlier than 1990, decent handling, easy to work on, 4wd, fairly reliable, and different looking? How about an AMC SX/4 or AMC Eagle Wagon? Both seem to fit the bill, I've always wanted an SX/4 but owned an Eagle for years and loved it (the SX/4 is mostly the same, but smaller with a row of seating chopped out). Was actually way more practical than my Comanche for daily use, and did great in the snow. shift-on-the-fly full time 4WD was ground breaking in the 80s when it came out. Powered by the AMC 258 I6, you know then if the car ever gets wrecked you've got an excuse to do a stroker on the 4.0. These vehicles have the same "can do anything, go anywhere" feel to them. SX/4 Eagle wagon

Here's me with my other Comanche. It's the ultra rare '92 model and runs on the bio fuel engine. 14.2HH lift kit.

I was able to do it with just normal tools. I put vice grips on the shock housing to keep it from spinning (the grips rotated until contact with the fender well, then held it in place) and used an open end offset wrench. It was a pain because I only had enough space to turn the thing about 60* then I had to flip the wrench to change the angle and rotate another 60* and repeat ad nauseum. Would have been much quicker with a stubby wrench or a ratcheting wrench, but I had to do it the long boring way.

Could also be a bad battery. If you have a spare working battery lying around, I'd give them a test swap since it's the fastest and easiest test you can do (just take the cables off and put them on the new one). Other than that, if the starter is jammed up or seized it will effectively try to draw infinite current from the battery (and whatever boosters you throw on it) and give pretty much the same symptoms as a bad battery. Also check your grounds, make sure everything looks good and clean, give a few tugs on the cables to make sure everything is tight (I've seen crimps fail on the ground wire, looked perfect visually but about a 1 oz tug pulled the wire right out).

You should set that for 0 RPM and leave it there. This is strictly hand sanding only. Attack that thing with a power sander and you won't believe how much you can screw stuff up in so short a time. I'd also practice with whichever filler you get ahead of time so you can get a feel for it. Unless you get some pre-measured kits, you'll have to mix on your own, and depending on your filler-to-catalyst ratio you'll have varying cure times. For fixing many small holes, you'll probably want to start with small batches and just doing one or two at a time; otherwise you'll end up mixing a big batch of goop that will be difficult to work with from the start and the properties will be changing as you work. Probably the most helpful thing you could do is head over to a body shop and see if you can watch some guys do it. You'll learn far more in five minutes of watching someone than you can by reading how to do it. Even if you end up paying for an hour of labor in order to watch them fill in a few holes for you while you watch and can ask a few questions, it will be a cheap lesson in how to do it right, just simply to see the quantities they use, how they mix it, and the technique they use to apply and shape it.

Looks very nice! Wish mine was as clean and straight as that (maybe by the end of the summer). What's the deal with that black one in the background?

^

When you had the starter tested, did you drive it there and remove the starter and bring it in, or did you carry it in cold? Heat soaking into a starter could be the culprit, it might test fine at normal temperatures (like when you first start up and it works just fine) but once it starts to cook up they take more current to turn over. At least, that's what happened to me once.

Yeah but then we would miss out on people that have some stuff lying around and just want it gone. What better place to post for sale spare old tailgate you have lying around, and a wiring harness you want out of your basement? Since the production count was low, there's not a huge demand for parts in every area, so some people have trouble selling on the free generic classifiedes sites. Maybe though have a separate "general forum classifieds" and a "member's only" that has a few requirements to see (and even know it exists) and access (say, X number of posts, or Y days of activity, or an invite from a mod).