daking

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I thought this was going to be about death wobble. I got that at about 70MPH, I thought for sure I was going to see him in person..

That's good to know. I'll save that relay, may find a use for it in the future. Like electric fan delay, or light delay.

So, you bought a bike. You went to look at it, said you would be back to get it. And, months later you decide to get it? What was the name of the store? And your not surprised it's gone?

Awesome, thanks for your info. I suppose I can remove the cruse control wires, Not going to have it. I wonder if the blue connector is related to cruse control..? I was thinking its for tow package though. That blue connector fits the break switch too, same pin and size. I need to do some research on the head light dimmer. I'm assuming it leaves the head lights on for a set time after key off?

I need some help identifying some connectors under the dash. Its a transplanted harness from a 1991 XJ into an 87 MJ. Black connector, 4 pin (heavy gauge wire) yellow plug, coming from steering column. White 2 pin connector (Wh/Bk goes to fuse panel, Wh/Pk goes to break switch, va an adapter) Black connector, 4 hole, with 3 wires Blue connector (fits the break switch too, but is not connected) And if anyone knows, what is the "red" relay? Image Not Found Thanks!

Why pick just ONE color? Mix it up :)

same question. also, what is the best head gasket out there?

I've been looking at these for a few months. The reason is it helps apply more of the engine torque to the wheels. When you launch, the engine (and drive train) will tilt. It will tilt before any power gets to the ground. So, the engines power will first tilt the engine, then spin the shafts, and then spin the tires. Causing a delay launch. This is one reason drag cars run solid motor mounts. And old school racers would use a chain, one end on frame, and other bolted on engine. To prevent loss of "off the line torque". I used a wire cable in my HEMI (wire rope is lighter the chain). The off the line launch improved. With a shock like this, you get the benefit of instant torque and flexibility of motor mounts. And the shock has give, so less chance of breaking stuff. I'm kinda surprised jeep or any stock car implemented this. I wonder what they wore trying to solve? Wore they only on the 2.5 manuals? I could see that, to soften shifts, and lessen the strain on the mounts. The reason I've been wanting to do this is different, again its for drag racing, Sand drags. I could see something like this helping someone with a manual and low gears too.

T5 5050 1-SMD 1smd 17 18 27 37 58 70 73 74 79 85 86 2721 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6RC4JC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 T10 Wedge 5-smd 5050, 168 http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Generation-brighter-Eco-friendly-Quality/dp/B00MGI60RQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426029166&sr=8-2&keywords=T10+Wedge+5-SMD+5050

I need to bleed my brakes. I saw the post on here with the full instructions, but can't find them now. have to bleed by pass line for rear, but forgot the method

Awesome! Thanks man That is exactly what I'm looking for. I need to re do the rear lights. If you can post the diagrams for the dash / fuse panel too, that would help. Different project I'm working on.

Well I do agree that Comanche is rare, I feel the direction he wants to go is fine. Not every truck needs to be the same, and I hate to see "Factory restore" jobs of ANY car or truck. Lame. The factory already did it, do something different. If I understand him correctly, It's going to be like a GMC Syclone. All wheel drive, street performance truck. With a Stroked and boosted 4.0, that would be cool. With a HEMI, that would be real cool too. My concern would be seeing it taken apart for the build, and money or interest fade away. Admittedly, I don't know how well a "Street" Comanche would perform. There are issues with these truck and speed. I don't think I'd trust any MJ over 80MPH. And these trucks are so light in the rear, Chrysler had to implement a self adjusting brake proportioning valve in the rear. Some work should be done to allow better handling. rear sway bar, better shocks (maybe even locations), adding weight to the rear (heavy metal bumper, rear mount battery,,), to even out the foot print. Adding a heavy HEMI engine in the front will cause handling issues too. It would be awesome to drive though, the power to weight ratio would be insane. Thats where you would NEED all wheel drive, cause that would be down right scary in 2wheel drive.

I just finished my sound system. Nothing extreme, like my other rides. The head unit it a 1 DIN, that fits the factory spot. Its a Kenwood, bluetooth, USB, Satellite, FM, and I think it even has AM! I put new door and rear speakers, Kicker brand, if I recall. That was last year. Ive been building this jeep for a few years.. I did put some foam "pockets" on the speakers. It encloses the rear of the speaker to improve sound and seal from moisture. I debated on getting a powered sub, that fits under the seat. That way I don't have to use up valuable cab space. But I decided that I'd rather have good sound, then just so so sound. I ended up buying a thin box, but long so it has volume (as in size). I also got a shallow mount sub. I'm actually impressed with the sound. Nice deep solid bass, not super loud, but real nice sounding in the cab. Because I relocated the battery in the rear of the truck, I had to bring power to the front. I also extended the ground as part of that project. I had already mounted a ground stud in the rear of the cab. That is one of 3 major ground points on my truck. The Amp is grounded on that stud too. I bought a 2000Watt amp for my HD RAM, and took the smaller amp that I was using in that RAM, and mounted it to the speaker box going in the jeep. Not sure of the wattage, 500..? Over all, It sounds real nice. I've only finished it a few days ago. I;ll post some pictures next week. Box I used ; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Stereo-Truck-Single-12-Ported-Subwoofer-Bass-Speaker-Enclosure-Mdf-Sub-Box-/331482988896?

I'm redoing my tail light electrical. 91 XJ harness to 87MJ rear electrical. So, that FSM will come in very handy

I'd buy.

http://www.threadtoolsupply.com/inch-metric-thread-checker.html Someone needs to take all the current posts and make a spreed sheet or a table of them on the first page. Maybe organized by location, "Engine", "Drive-train [transmissions, transfer-cases, drive shafts, axles]", "Body", "inside", and so on..

That sounds like it looks great! any pictures? I think I'll do the same. I've been converting bolts and screws to stainless as I go

The down pipe is 2.25". Except where it bends, its less then 2.25". Factory uses compression bends, so pipe gets smaller at the bends. ( I think that's why you wanted 45s?) I believe the cat is 2.25" on the IN and 2.5" on exit.. I would leave it the way he did it. Better a bit larger then smaller. Unless your looking for a factory restore on that jeep. I could be wrong, but I just pulled all that off my truck. So I could measure later. I made a custom down pipe using 2.5" Mandrel bent pipe. I added a flex pipe to limit damage to exhaust header.

Well finally started the engine! Here is it idling, and ~2000RPM Kinda sounds hollow, or tinny. I was hopping for a deeper sound. Maybe I'm used to V8's. I think I'll put a high-flow cat, hopefully that will take out the tinny sound. So, let me know how you all think it sounds.

glad you got it fixed. On the hoses and vac lines, I was looking for that too. never found a complete set. I just pulled the hard lines from a pick n pull. And bought an assortment of vac lines at auto stores.

Well, I like it. :) What controller did you use? As far as use., as others have asked. I race in sand / mud. With one of my race trucks, I can program the shift points in the computer. It shifts through 5 gears in about ~5.5 sec, when racing in 300ft. It's this rapid shifting that helps my truck to dominate. Can't manually shift that fast. Anyway, with my Master Jeep (MJ), I may race it too. However transmission control in these seems to be lacking. Shifting is controlled my throttle position, RPM's, load, and other things. So if I want to shift at say, 5500rpm exact, there seems to be no way to allow this electronically. However, with a custom shifter, one that allows the driver to bump the shifter up. And a shift light, it will be more constant. And your solution for a shift light is awesome! Even just for everyday driving.

I literally just went through this. New engine. The distributor was not aligned. I pulled the distributor out. I put cyl 1 at TDC, and made sure crank was at 0*. I could not get the rotor to line up exactly with #1 on the cap. I kept moving the oil pump, and re seating, but it would always be just before or just after #1. Turned out it was 180 off. rotated engine till a puff of air came from the spark plug hole of #1 cyl, moved crank pulley to 0*, moved oil pump gear to 11 o-clock, and installed distributor. dropped right into place. dead on with #1 cyl on cap. centered. I have an aftermarket cam, no notching needed for my install. I did cut the cap, to see rotor, but later I discovered just painting a small white line on the distributor body where cyl1 is, was easier. Also marking the small "cut" on the crank pulley mae it really easy to see an align to 0*.

looking good. don't know if i personally like the tweeter location, but it could grow on me. I do like the mids in the door, though. Really looking forward to seeing the sub box. I was looking at the suspension, and noticed the use of lowering blocks. is that original to these type of Comanche? I'm not a big fan of blocks, for lift or lowering. But may not be an issue in that application. If they lowered it that much, I wonder how they dealt with the rear brake valve. Like using a shorter lever? Maybe you can post a picture of the rear valve.