Pete M

that site shows a Cherokee lift. Dakota packs might lift you an inch in an MJ. We have very different leaf packs than Cherokees. longer control arms are a must at 4". so are longer brake lines, track bar and sway bar links. what size tires are you looking to run?

chances are that the previous owner mistakenly thought pulling the thermostat would help with overheating.

driving while powering only a single front wheel is NOT recommended for street driving. been there, done that, hated it (got a minispool in my front dana 44). Torque steer was constantly trying to turn my truck left with power on, and right when I let up on the gas (was powering the left tire). I gave up on it and drove the rest of the way in 2wd. individual results may vary. my truck was trying to kill me. :ack: also, does this particular locker like it when it has power coming in or out of only one side? there's a chance that would eat it alive.

x2

tough call. there is some experience out there that says doing a flush-n-fill on an AW-4 that hasn't been properly maintained can lead to problems (the theory being that if dislodges particulates that then get lodged in more sensitive areas). If you do the required work and it fails, then you get your money back, right?

why not? every Jeep made since the early 90s comes that way. The CAD was a mistake. It offer neither mpgs nor less wear-n-tear in any relevant or measurable way. Dump it, get some late model shafts with the bigger 297 joints and be happily on your way.

cross your fingers and try giving these guys a holler: http://www.hitch-web.com/vhitch.asp?CLI ... #DRAW-TITE

most things work great, until they don't. :D

before dropping the t-case, I would crawl underneath while someone is pulling the handle to make sure the linkage is all moving smoothly and nothing is binding or loose. might just need adjustment or new plastic bushings.

step 1: go to second hand store. step 2: buy pair of boots that are dedicated to garage use. step 3: never have to clean or replace your toes. :thumbsup: I cannot emphasize enough how easy it is to serious hurt your feet in a garage environment. foot and eye safety should not be left to chance. :no:

The factory setup is prone to failure and intermittent problems that deny you of 4wd at the worst possible moment. It was a mistake that Jeep eventually deleted in favor of a one-piece axleshaft. The CAD is simply a 2-piece axleshaft that has a collar that connects/disconnects the axle shaft. Bypassing it as shown makes it just like any Jeep made after the early/mid 90s. :thumbsup: The t-case will still control 2wd/4wd.

back in it's former life, people used to assume my 88 was a 4wd all the time. :yes: one guy actually said "are you sure?" after I corrected him. :rotf:

consider it zapped. :D yes, need more pics. preferably outside in the sunlight. :yes:

yes he is a member: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=27594

if everything else works, then it could be that the linkage just needs adjusting or that your plastic bushings need replacing.

just wait til you get the shop bill. :(

It's just a small lip of rubber that comes off the bearing assembly. mine tore apart the first time I pulled the axle shafts out (the bronco hadn't moved in a decade or so when I bought it and everything was dry-rotted). find a shop that can install them first. and can install them properly. They press on, but there's no obvious stopping point. They have to measure and match the current bearings. Otherwise your axle shaft will stick out or be pulled in by however much they were off. Timken makes quality stuff. :thumbsup: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-123 ... aring.html their ad says it's commonly used with aftermarket axle shafts, so if I were you I would call them just to confirm it'll work on stock ones too (I'm pretty sure it will).

the axle seal is integral with the bearing. in other words, to change the seal, you have to change the bearings. and they have to be pressed on by a machine. I had mine done at a local shop. and yes, it is big bearing. all 9" from 78+ were (and some earlier ones under F-150s.) If you do swap out the bearings, go with the 79 tapered bearing rather than the 78 flat roller bearing.

only the CAD works on vacuum. the t-case shifts with the lever. :thumbsup:

any hole in the firewall. The old seals are all likely poor.

When I bought my 90, it was stuck in 4wd hi. Between my friend yanking on the handle and me underneath with an adjustable wrench directly on the lever, we were able to get it into 2wd for the drive home from the seller. Turns out that the lever itself was rusted solid in the cab. How's the floor look underneath where the linkage is? any rust?

I went with a stock Cherokee prop valve for the front of my 90 (double booster added and rear prop deleted.). seems to work just fine. :thumbsup:

I assume you gave him a club card?

good point. forgot to ask when you were checking it. The pump only gets voltage for about a second after the key is turned to run, and then anytime the engine is either cranking or running. If none of those things are going on and you're reading a voltage, then it's the sending unit's voltage, not the pump's.

ya know, we aren't staring at a computer screen 24/7. it just seems that way. :D In theory the voltage should be 12 at startup, but in reality it's more like 10 on an old truck due to corrosion and other voltage drop. 6.5 is still really low. I would clean up the ground behind the drivers side taillight. the pump in my 88 grounds there.