Pete M

rebuilds aren't exactly cheap. I think you'd likely still be better off spending the extra bucks on a decent donor with a good drivetrain but a bad body. heck, some guys have purchased perfectly good XJs (97+s in particular) and then gutted them for their swap. All depends in what you want in the end.

are you keeping the Renix injection? personally I'd keep everything as stock as possible, but with a hotter cam and a lot of porting work on the intake and exhaust, valve job etc. maybe look into the late model 4.0 intakes as they flow more air. also some 5.0 injectors would be thrown in :D

I used a chop saw with a metal cutting blade, but a sawzall or angle grinder with the appropriate blades would work too. It's just a steel bushing and you need to trim off the ends so the arm is the same width as the stock MJ unit. heck, a hack saw would work if you want to work on those arm muscles. :D

my d-35 blew up its gears while wearing 30" tires under a 2wd daily driver. individual results may vary. :yes:

3.55s will be better than 3.07s, but it'll still be a step backwards trying to push 33s around. how much road vs offroad will the truck see? how much freeway?

not enough of a difference to matter. you're really going to be struggling with the "fun" aspect having that gearing and that much tire. It'll feel real sluggish from a start. Might even try to stall on you. but it should be ok in 4-low. :thumbsup:

which engine and trans?

looking to upgrade to fusionbb forum software.

any ol' method will do. :thumbsup: just be sure not to melt the rubber and you'll be fine.

I've been told that this method works ok: sounds plausible to me. use the power steering to help with the grunt work. :D though I guess it won't help as much on an axle that is separate from the truck. :(

"disrespectful"? ha! our main page could be better designed by a troop of fingerless chimps. :yes: I like it. :thumbsup: when we get to transfering to the new forum software (hopefully later this week), I'll be in touch. :cheers:

just need to trim the steel bushings a hair.

btw, any tech that's not MJ tech is very much welcome here. :thumbsup: just post it in the pub rather than the Tech forum. :yes:

axle hop and rear end squatting under acceleration are good indicators of wrap occuring. The springs wrap themselves into an "S" shape under load, and when it releases, it can cause the back end to bounce.

I'd throw in another main leaf (with the eyes cut off). It'd better handle the weight and better resist wrap. keep an eye out for broken leafs. I had some bad butt-saggin' under acceleration with the 88 back when it was 2wd and I later found one broken leaf per side.

:D

any year WJ grand cherokee. 99-04 were the WJs I think.

in theory, yes. it should make it harder for a spam computer to read it. but it's not impossible and our new forum software should bring us better capcha stuff (like asking 2+2).

it's possible that it is closed. I had a door latch do that to me once. :fs1: Does it look like the other side? If it's stuck closed, you might have luck by working the center mechanicsm back and forth while prying it open.

yup. :thumbsup: t-cases get ATF (and auto trannies of course)

chillin' with my family in Georgia for one more weekend before I go back to the land of ice and snow and unemployment (aka michigan) as my dad likes to call it. 8)

or go with the upgrade of WJ arms. :brows: They are definitely better than stock MJ units. Hornbrod used them with his lift and says there is enough adjustment in the factory shims to accomodate a 3" lift.

later model MTs had a double overload design. :thumbsup:

as an engineer I like overkill :yes: and 1/4" is technically overkill. a perfectly strong hitch can be made from 3/16" with a more elaborate design. 1/4" seems to be the industry standard for class 3 hitches. more than that is just extra weight. I did a ton of research when I was building my truck and I went with 3/16" bumpers with 1/4" brackets and I have difficulty imagining them deforming in any way. :D similar bumpers are on my buddy's bronco and they've been, um, tested several times and only have scratches to show for it. overkill is using the shackkle bolt. I don't think I've seen a hitch design yet that took advantage of that. and it seems so obvious. :dunno:

My thoughts: -definitely integrate in the shackle bolt if you can. that's even better than my bolt (which was put there to integrate into the rollbar mount) -1/4" thick is plenty, but since the end user is going to need to weld in their own hitch anyway, I'd suggest a couple of small triangular gussets if they want to weld them in -can these fit into any of the post office flat rate boxes?