Pete M

we all start at the bottom of the knowledge ladder. we're happy to give others a hand on the climb up.

you might need to start a new thread so more eyeballs will see it.

I got a full kit through, I think, Summit. the fit is ok. it doesn't have to be perfect (and never was, even from the factory), as the door has drain holes. do be sure to clean out your doors. the pieces of the old felt fall down and can clog those drain holes.

I know, right?

wow!

gotcha.

I swapped the later radiator into my 88 and changed nothing else. hasn't affected anything in the factory performance of the closed system. but it did make it easier to fill. for a full resto truck I wouldn't have done that, but that particular truck is just a wheeler.

if you're thinking on tinting, did you want to switch to an external decal?

I've become a huge proponent of replacing old fan clutches, even if they seem fine.

the factory system is fully capable of cooling a MJ without hacking holes in the hood. after 3 decades it just needs the basic maintenance done (like replacing ancient parts like your rad and hoses and fan clutch etc). fun fact: adding holes in the hood can let stinky smells from the hot engine right into the cowl and then into the cab.

we don't know. there aren't any breakdowns of what all was made and sold (beyond the total number of trucks per calendar year). and at this point the numbers wouldn't mean much anyways, as there are only ~10% of MJ left on the roads. nice truck

a trio of awesome old iron right there

lifting 4.5" on stock arms will ruin the alignment, especially the caster. on cheap lifts it's usually just the lowers that are longer than stock. on better lifts the uppers are longer too and the lowers are adjustable. got pics of what you've got?

doesn't the grand waggy have a 6 bolt pattern?

dang, the far end of TN.

a cheap infrared thermometer can identify which brakes are hotter than the others.

always is. doing nothing and simply becoming numb to the harshness is always an option too.

are your arms stock length? I think the drop kits are designed around stock length arms.

MJ bars (in factory condition) don't come down from the top rail. looks cool though.

literally any opening in the cab could be a leak (and some that shouldn't be an opening at all). these are the ones I found just on the pass side of the truck I'm fixing up. I'm fixing the surface rust with a combo of 5way (to chisel up the bulk of the old sealant), wirewheel, grinder, primer, paint and then POR-15. highly recommended that you set up a boxfan to blow a steady breeze through the cab while working (plus mask, googles, etc).

you must address the water leaks before addressing the rust.

where specifically is the play? might be that the straps are misshapen and it's time to upgrade them to through ubolts.

have you pulled the carpet? with the carpet out it was very obviously running down the corner of the cab.

my final leak in Breanne's truck was coming from the cowl and only occurred with rain. I couldn't replicate it with the hose. after yanking out the hvac it was obvious where it was coming in. top corner in the image where the rust is. all of those arrows were leaks.

being "low on power" could be from any number of things, from a simple clogged fuel filter to needing to regear.