Pete M

the Liberty 8.25 is also a couple inches wider which helps the rear tires to look less "tucked in". MJs have a wide butt compared to XJs (which have the same axle, but the tires normal like the fronts).

WJ arms will cure the rub, but most round aftermarket arms do ok in that regard too. stock arms aren't just straight, they have that little lip that catches the tire lugs.

Are we sure that doesn't say more about the 20-somethings these days. the key is to stay active and exercise. Keep at it and maybe when you hit 70 you can show up the kids at softball like my Dad. that's my goal at least.

you should not use a drop pitman. that changes your steering geometry for the worse. if you draw imaginary lines through the attachment points of your track bag and drag link, they should be parrallel (the bars can have bends in them so the bars themselves need not be parallel, just the ends). if you drop one without dropping the other, it'll induce bump-steer. I used a 1" drop in my pitman arm because I also used a 1" drop track bar bracket. WJ arms have been used for a 3" lift before. there is some adjustment (but not a lot) where the lower control arm attaches to the body (uses these little U-shaped shims).

no, no. you should definitely still hunt down that t-case.

43 last I checked. old enough to know how serious my back issues can get from wrestling transmissions in a gravel junkyard.

plus these because there's just so much awesomeness in them

found a few more pics

it's killing me not to go get this. but it's too much effort (pulling a transmission by myself? haha, yeah not since I was in my 20s) for something I don't need right now. maybe when I get back home in a week I'll reevaluate. if it's still there by then it must be fate, right?

car-part.com might be able to find a t-case for you. a 21 spline 242 will only be found in 87- (I think)90 XJs with the 4.0/auto. after that they went to 23 spline.

snow tires will change your life the 242 will too. my liberty has been in AWD mode for 12 years now. the original dana 44s are getting harder and harder to find in any condition, but one with 4.10s and posi would be a rare bird indeed. the 4.10s would only have come behind a 2.5L MJ with the Metric Ton package and they didn't build a lot of those. And then the first owner would also needed to have checked the posi box because it was a separate choice. I'm not saying it's impossible, but the odds are stacked against you. now, if originality isn't the main goal, you can find Explorer 8.8s, Liberty 8.25s and 97+ XJ 8.25s in the junkyards all day long. giving a decent budget, I would grab a Liberty 8.25 with disks and have it regeared to my needs.

I've been in worse situations at 2am on a saturday, but that there really sucks. you've got the right idea. just drain it down as best you can. Can you see the leaking area? typically it's either the feul pump seal, the fill tube seal or the rust has gotten out of hand.

as long as you retain your current mains, most anything can be used. you just need to look for flat leafs that are the same width (2.5"?). As long as they are in decent shape, I bet you can mix and match with your current set and get what you want. keep in mind that not all leafs have the same diameter center pin, so youmay need to drill them out to match (for example I know that explorers are slightly larger so I drilled out my 90's mains to match).

that's a tough question to answer since it would vary wildly depending on spring sag. MJs are spring-under and so the leafs have plenty of arch. XJs are spring-over and so their leafs are more or less flat. tired XJ examples can actually be inverted a bit. If I remember right, MJ leafs can give about 3" of lift to an XJ, so I guess the reverse would drop the MJ by the same. Rangers are spring-over. I wonder how flat their packs are...

I'm sure something will happen this summer.

well, XJ leafs will lower an MJ. (I would retain that main leaf though)

In my head I was picturing a map, like our new locations google map, but with markers of people who like to meet up and then different markers with who could actually host an event (this could be their actual place if they don't mind 10 trucks all showing up at once or a local place to meet up, like a car show or offroad park). just brain stormin' at the moment. nothing concrete yet.

oh, hell ya that would be awesome! the year it came out we still had a dollar theater in our town. saw it like every day that summer

Original list is here: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/budget-builds-what-junkyard-parts-will-fit-xj-847303/ it's an XJ list, so keep that in mind. Suspension & Lift: -Front End: 1.ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift 2.F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift 3.Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift 4.ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked 5.Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too 6.TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ -Rear End: 1.Bastard Pack: Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift) i.e. S10, Dakota 2.MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift 3.GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle -Misc: 1.JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (must be from JK Rubicon, BPEs are not required, you need to press out the metal sleeves from the JK shocks, and insert the XJ stock bar pins to the axle-side part of the front shocks, and the body-side of the rear shocks.) 2.S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack 3.Ford Exploder rear sway-bar links = may be good for 3-4" lift 4.WJ rear sway bar end-links = minor fab to fit 3-4" lift 5.WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required) 6.WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required 7.V8 ZJ front sway-bar 8.JK rear UCA = use as XJ LCA, its about 1-2" longer 9.Ford Bronco II (that's the little one like a ranger) Front Swaybar = good for 3-4" lift Brakes: -Booster, MC, etc: 1.WJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve 2.ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion 3.XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm, larger bore 4.WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims) 5.KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on your XJ axle -Lines: 1.YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer 2.Dakota Rear Softlines ('87-96) = 6" longer 3.GM C/K1500 Front Softlines ('90-95) = 6" longer 4.Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts), some dispute 5.5.JK Front Brake Lines = bolt-in and long (can max out 12" shocks and still have slack) Axles: -Bolt-in Swap: 1.XJ C8.25 Rear ('97+) = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44) 2.XJ D44 Rear = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package 3.XJ D30 Front = ('95-'99) non-disconnect, larger u-joints, high pinion 4.XJ I-4 & some V6 = may have 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 gears may have vacuum discos -Moderate Fab to Fit: 1.Ford 8.8 inch Rear ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (3.55, 3.73, or 4.10, maybe LSD, Disc Brakes) 2.MJ D44 Rear = need new spring perches and shock mounts 3.MJ AMC 20 Rear = need spring perches and shock mounts 4.Ford HP44/9" Combo = full width, more intense fab -Misc: 1.Lincoln Lockers = welded spider gears, operates like a spool, must be a GOOD welder 2.G80 LSD locker from '90s Turbo Volvo with D30 rear for XJ front D30 (beware with larger tires) 3.Homebrew posi-locks for '84-90 vacuum disconnect D30s, eliminates vacuum actuation 4. ZJ D30 CV shafts can be used in place of XJ u-joint shafts in '92+ D30's Steering: 1.ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in 2.WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering 3.Durango Steering Box = beefier 4.GM 2wd fullsize truck steering box = beefy, helps for wb stretch 5.Astro Van steering box = good for long wb stretch 6.ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock 7.WJ power steering pump (fits '96+, plug return hole, and use XJ pulley) Engine: -Performance: 1.Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification) 2.Mustang 5.0 Injectors = near bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray) 3.Dodge Neon Injectors = better throttle response 4. Stroker Motor......SEARCH -Alternator: 1.Mopar 136Amp Alternator, bolt it (slight grinding required) found in: 97-98 Dodge Full Size Van, 97-1998 Dodge Dakota, 97-98 Dodge Durango, 97-98 Dodge Ram, 97-98Jeep Grand Cherokee 2. Dakota (2.5L I-4) Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A -Cooling: 1.Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling (8C607) 2.Hoodvents (i.e. Lebaron, Laser, Turbo Thunderbird etc.) = help keep ur 4.0 cool at low speeds 3.You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an MJ overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core. -Swaps: 1.For '84-'86 XJ with 2.8L GM V6 only! you can swap in any 60* GM V6 engine, they use the same motor mounts and bellhousings, engine options include 3.1L, and 3.4L etc, but DOES NOT INCLUDE 90* GM V6 engines such as the 4.3L!!! this swap will allow you to gain horsepower, torque, and fuel injection Transmission: 1.ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style) 2.'94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing), good upgrade from AX-5 3. Renix Transmission (swap electric speedo to t-case) Transfer Case: 1.'89+ AX-15 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch t-case drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance 2.Homebrew Slip Yoke Eliminator (use search function) 3.NV241-OR (from TJ Rubicon only) = near bolt in, 4:1 low range 4.Doubler Options : NP231/NP231, NP231/D300 Body/Exterior/Armor: 1.XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors 2.’97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails. 3.GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification 4.'96-00 Ford Explorer hatch shocks = lift your hatch about 3" lower but are beef (ever see one that doesn't work?) need modification for '97+ 5.TJ Fender Flares (front and rear or rear all the way around) 6.Wheels from XJ, ZJ, TJ, YJ, Explorer, Magnum Steelies (17x7) (any with 5x4.5 bolt pattern) will fit....CJ, WJ, WK, KK, JK, Full-Size Ford 5 bolt rims will NOT fit 7.OEM swing-out tire carriers, get the bumper with it, found mainly on '84-'90 XJ's 8.ZJ skid plates = require slight modification, but can be made to work 9.OEM skid plates (Front, Tranny, T-case, gas tank, found on "up-country" package XJ's not the same as a Country Edition) 10.YJ/TJ Mirrors = bigger, fold in, look cool 11. Ford Windstar Hatch Struts = lift high and strong 12. Bronco II swing out tire carrier - slight mod to fit via S10 Shackles (see post 418 orhttp://i51.tinypic.com/2uhpso4.jpg) Interior: 1.MJ/2 Door XJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, near bolt in 2.XJ overhead console = most commonly found in '00-01 or higher trim level, provides space for switches etc. 3.'97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cupholders 4.Grand Cherokee center console lid = sits higher, but gives rear passengers cupholders 5.ZJ and WJ Seats - get brackets too, may require some drilling but gives you leather :-) 6. ZJ shift knob, direct replacement for XJ knob

yeah, once you know specifics it'll narrow down what you need.

The loss of Don was a huge blow to our little community. Many of us called him friend and all of us saw him as a wise sage and Jeep mentor. But even now as I fight back tears, this post is about the more practical aspect of no longer having him around. He was a prolific poster, loved to engage new members, and he answered every question he could. He knew a lot, he posted a lot, and his absence from the forums is palpable. Even if you didn't know him personally, something probably feels... off compared to a couple months ago. I've been trying to step up my game and fill the gap, but my poor brain simply cannot do what Don's could. I need help. None of you should feel like they have to do it all, but if each member made a point to maybe check in Tech an extra time each day, or chat up something in the pub, or maybe comment on the MJ builders' threads a bit more, it'd be a huge help. Engagement, communication and having fun are the keys to keeping this place from becoming just a library of MJ data, and I can't do it alone. and speaking of our library, we could always use some new DIY threads! another thing I've been dwelling on is we need more get-togethers. actually seeing the people we chat with each day. It'll forever be one of my biggest regrets not driving out to see Don. I plan on traveling out to Colorado this spring or early summer and it'd be nice to have a meetup or 2 along the way plus a big one in Pueblo CO to help Jim's widow, Katie, with tearing down that old trailer by the road and maybe finishing the fence so her chickens can help with grasshopper control on the "lawn". (some years it's like a biblical locust swarm!) We need to do some wheelin' in the mountains for sure. Not sure if I can also do Moab like my big trip in '06 (that's another 14 hour round trip from Pueblo on top of the 20+ hrs just to get to there), but... I dunno. maybe if I break it up sufficiently I won't exhaust my body too much. gotta dream big, right?

are you using a phone or laptop?

If you could have all memories of it, it's ending, anything that came after it (or before it as in my first example) erased from your memory so you could see it from scratch, what would it be? I just watched Rogue One again. It's definitely in the top 10. it's not a perfect movie by far, but I'd love to watch it without knowing anything about Vadar or other star wars movies. the original Die Hard would be sweet too. or maybe the last Avengers movie without any knowledge of Marvel stuff or knowing that a lot of the dusted members have movies coming up

wow, you've been busy! looks good!