Pete M

It'll be real tight and will most likely rub on the fenders.

If you're worried about turning the fan off, just power the relay from a "switched power" source. That way it turns off with the key. That way you don't even need to add another switch to the interior.

Stock rims?

Fuse? Yes, absolutely. From in the box? Only if you're taking power for a relay, not if you're powering the fan directly. Relays only take a small amount of juice. Your fan can easily overwhelm the little wires in the box.

Not if you like trying to figure out what that burnt smell is. :chillin:

The 2.5L shares transmissions with the 2.8L, which is why I would guess they would share starters, but I don't own a 2.5L, so I can't check (the question was posed to me by another owner).

The relay will handle the juice, the majority of switches out there will not. It took a while before I learned that the hard way (youthful ignorance and/or stupidity). Plus then you can run a small guage wire into the cab instead of buying a whole bunch of bigger stuff.

I have the magnets, the 3x5 bumper stickers, the 12" long decals, and even some 24" long decals. Just waiting on the windshield decals which should be in my hands tomorrow. Oh, and I was waiting for my semester to end (and that ended about an hour ago). One way or another I'll make this all official tomorrow.

Personally I'd wire it through a relay to a switch on the dash. I did it to my 88 out of necessity (something in the system stopped working while I was on the dunes) and I plan to do the same to my 90 because I like it so much. I just perfer the idea of it running all the time. Probably because I've had so many heating issues in the past. Of course, then you have to remember to turn it on and off. There's plusses and minuses to everything.

Which ones aren't interchangeable? All of them?

Are the 2.5L starters like 4.0L starters or like 2.8L starters?

Careful with the sledge. I'd advise using a piece of 2x4 as a buffer between the rim and sledge.

The BA-10 fill plug is on the passenger side of the trans (I think). It takes a square metric tool and most of us take an old 3/8" ratchet extension and ground it down slightly to fit the hole. Oh, and the Peugeot will take regular ol' GL-5.

Be very VERY careful if you remove the sender. I hear it's pretty easy to snap off the connection to the block.

:rotfl2: The floor (once I have one again) will be covered in bediner. Just like it should have been from the factory. If they had done something like that, I'd still have a floor. :headpop:

Oops, I meant Thursday. Lookin' for a high of 75* on Thursday. :D She's going to be a daily driver so 31s are the target size.

Um, all of them? :dunno: :hmm: Be careful about the wheel bolt pattern. I seem to remember reading that some recent years were metric.

Or: why you should just go buy a 2wd... I present to you a run-of-the-mill 1990 MJ. A Pioneer, with buckets, full cluster, 4wd, AX-15, skid plates and even a rollbar. 210,000+ miles of faithful service to an unknown number of owners (at least 4). The previous owner was tired of patching rust and sinking money into her and so put her up for sale for the cost of the last repair, a new clutch master cylinder (didn't solve the problem, which turned out to be a leaky slave). So I drove down to Toledo and forked over my cash in exchange for an attempt at driving it back home. First order was to get the friggin thing out of 4wd. Due to severe floor rust at the hinge bracket, it took me underneath with a wrench directly on the T-case lever and Mike inside the truck pulling on the lever to get it to move. Next issue was corrosion at the battery terminals, then the issue with the brake lights not working, and all the while I was shifting as much as possible without using the clutch pedal. But she arrived in my driveway none the worse for wear. Well, except for the clutch line, which finally blew out, rendering it completely useless. And what are my plans for this Comanche? I need a daily driver. But not just any daily driver. I couldn't deal with that. :brows: So, on to the build... First off, I needed to dump that ghastly rollbar and the tiny rolling rubber. Out came the sawzall and on went a set of 31s. Then she sat for a good long time while I gathered the necessary parts... Last week I was finally ready to push her into the garage and begin. First I gutted the interior to see how bad the rust was. Yeah. :( Well, I do have awesome access to the crossmember bolts. :D I started with some easy projects. First I got the windshield wipers to work properly by swapping in a spare delay controller. Previously, the delay didn't work, the wipers flew past their stops, and wouldn't return to their resting place. While working on that, I replaced some fuses. Then I moved on to more complicated projects and swapped in a dual diaphram booster from a 95 XJ. And gutted the rear suspension and exhaust. I found a new use for my U-joint puller. Those leaf spring bolts were reeeeeally stuck in there. Even with this method I still had to cut the heads off and wiggle the leafs out. And that's where we stand. It's too hot to work in the garage, so I'll be picking up where I left off on Weds when it's supposed to cool down.

I thought they put the sound mat between two layers of Hurculiner? I'm pretty sure you can put the Hurculiner (or whatever bedliner you use) directly to the POR. I think the big question is whether or not you need the sound mat. I'm betting the magazine got theirs for free to do the article. It's incredibly expensive and I seriously doubt it adds all that much more protection over using the bedliner alone. In my opinion, adding a metal heatshield between the floor and pipes is the most effective option. Second after that is a removable interior pad.

There is no such thing as overkill when you're thinking of 39.5" tires. Just make sure the bolt pattern matches your front axle.

2wd MJs are 1" shorter than 4wd MJs.

Ever since the A/C died, I started to like my vent windows. Flipping them out seems to provide the most air flow into the cab. But then again, the drivers side leaked considerably and eventually I glued it shut. I do intend to replace it with another, but then I also plan to rip out that awful carpet and just line the floor, so there's no further risk of water getting trapped under the carpet.

I'm confused, why do you feel you need a heat shield to go between the POR and Hurc?

If all goes well, I should have an internal bellhousing freed up when my 90 is finished. Maybe by this weekend.

How does a 435 bolt to the 4.0L? Or am I thinking of the wrong trans...