Pete M

Best I can do. Stock 4x4 MJ with 31x10.5s

The factory harness was in a cardboard box I found in the bed. Original owner had a wire fire and removed it in hopes of fixing it. Well, that never happened and they wired it up enough to make the carb run around the farm. Most of the wires you see are dead, I just never bothered to weed the extra crap out. When I bought the truck there were switches on the firewall for the headlights, ignition, starting and a push button for the brake lights.:eek: Now we have -headlights and parking lights together (no highbeams though), -brake lights (now operated by the brake pedal switch), -wipers (the factory switch only works with high so I have a separate one for low), -ignition switch, -starting button (now with a factory relay in the engine compartment), -turn indicators (once again, the factory switch is broken so I have a separate switch for that). Only the essentials, but it's totally street legal now. She's my little slice of redneck heaven in the suburbs (where there's a 48 hr rule for parking). :D My neighbors can complain all they want, but they can't do anything about a registered and roadworthy truck.

Yes, pleeeeease stop replying to them. They won't ever see it and then I have even more posts to go through and delete. I just wonder if they ever make any money off of this crap, or are they just pissed at the world because no one likes them. :hmm:

Amen to that! :D

The aforementioned "station wagon" wheel looks like this, only not stripped. I'm sure someone has a better pic. :D (is it even possible to have a worse pic?)

Sand, mud, snow, highway... my trXus have taken everything I've thrown at them (I've never wheeled in sharp rocks though). They are a heavy tire and some of mine have taken a bunch of weight to balance (one needed only a single small weight). No biggie though as they've maintained that balance just fine. The biggest concern is that you rotate them every 3-5k miles. They are a soft tire compound and they will show you any problems with your alignment. BFG muds and MTRs also get a nod from me (though I haven't run them on my trucks). Just don't think of the MTRs as a mud tire, they are an all-terrain.

Keep in mind that there were some options for the SporTruck and not all of them will be totally bare bones.

Oh, I never said they got it right, I only said they figured out that the 2.8L's oil passages sucked. There are other issues (it's a chevy after all). :D

Junkyard axles are the way to go. :D Start hunting for 4.10s.

Next chance I get I'll snag the part number off it. I've got no way of finding out what vehicle it was originally intended for (tried doing that when I bought them). You'd have to find a way to fit them in the engine bay. Space is at a premium.

While that's very true, then he'd have to screw around with installing the electronics. Go with the 3.4L conversion and get an aftermarket carb. It seems Chevy eventually figured out how to properly oil their 60* engines. :D

will water drain out? yes. Ice? well, that's probably not going to be draining out any holes. :D I realize you Southerners only see natural ice once in a generation or 2, but it's solid, like the ice you put in your drinks on those balmy February days. :rotfl2:

My only experience with re-used gears was in my Dakota. The original posi went kaput (not the usual way mind you, the other way, it was like the rear end became spooled). Took it to the dealership (under warranty) and they replaced the posi. Picked it up and didn't even get down the street before I had to turn around and take it back. Seems they reused the old gears (lord only knows if they reused the old shims too) and it made an painful howling sound. Didn't they take it for a test drive? I hate dealerships. :headpop:

struts are cheap enough and buying new means you can just return them if they are too weak or too strong. Also, doing a single strut is WAAAAAY easier than trying to do two. With 2 you have to balance the weight between the 2, build mounts for 2, etc. The strut on my 88. Notice the multiple screw holes as I tried different mounting points to get the lifting characteristics just right. Also, I bought a variety of struts and tried different ones until I found one that could hold up the hood but didn't try to deform the sheetmetal when I closed the hood.

Take a small fridge magnet and use it to check for rust and evidence of bondo.

Yup, count your blessings that it blew up now rather than later. :cheers:

I had something similar once with an aftermarket window. I kept throwing black exterior silicone at it until it stopped. :(

I've had similar issues on multiple vehicles over the years and the first thing I check nowadays is the battery cables. More often than not, taking off the cables and cleaning the surfaces will cure my electrical on/off gremlins because sometimes it makes a good connection, sometimes it doesn't. :dunno:

The Rocky Road kit is only half a kit. Rumor has it they are working on arms.

If he's paying for gears, I'd get 4.56 to push those trXus around. They are a heavy tire.

I put one of the 3x5 stickers on a magnetic sheet so I could slap it on the back of the family's vehicles when I'm driving. :D

Sooooooo, do you need a new one? :roll:

It's even easier than that if you have a credit card. Once you have the ability to pay regular people using a credit card, a whole new world of buying possibilities opens up, for better or for worse. :D Just send me a PM stating what you want and I'll send you my address. :D

3.73 were pretty common in Grand Cherokees. Just make sure to get one that is high pinion and running U-joints.

Yup. :D