Pete M

On the plus side, you now have an available core. :D Steal any usable stuff and bite the bullet to get another. You wouldn't be the first to make the mistake of not checking the innards of a junkyard axle. I'm also guilty of that. :( It's an expensive way to learn a lesson, but I have learned that lesson and will always pop them open first (or make them do it).

No, no, no. Either you misread me or I'm misreading you. I don't buy the cheapest. I buy the next step up (or whatever is above than the Fram if the store I'm in happens to sell them). But I have no problems dumping in the cheapest oil I can find (every 2k miles). :D

You forgot your ranting smilie. :D :rant:

Not good... :(

I don't see anything. :(

I'll buy whatever isn't a fram and isn't the cheapest. Beyond that I have no loyalty. 8)

Aside from the fact that they have killed engines? I had one fail on me, but fortunately the tough ol' girl survived even with almost no oil pressure (0 at idle, but I got a few if I kept the engine above 1000 rpms or so). But Frams aside, money spent on a filter is money well spent. You really do get more for your money in filter media and internal construction. :D

The longbed is 6 inches longer in front of the wheel well and six inches longer behind. I doubt the mounts line up. Also, the gas tank and some other stuff hangs from the bed so all that little stuff would also need to be moved. Plus shortening the frame is a major biiitch and not advised. I imagine bobbing isn't all that hard (depending on how you want to do it). Do you want to retain a functional tailgate? If not, then life becomes much easier. I bet you'd get a huge benefit from simply adding a rear bumper that doesn't hang down as much as the stock one. I deleted my tailgate and the bumper comes right out from the frame and hugs the truck. I have a shortbed, but the principle is the same for the longbed. At one point in time I also considered slicing the rear off at the shackles and adding 78 Bronco taillights which should fit nicely into the hollow bed sides.

I HIGHLY recommend one of these. Not the paint per se, but the little gun thing is a great asset. :D

I added a second main MJ leaf (with the eyes cut off) to help support the main leaf and to help with wrap. Seems to do a pretty good job of both. :D

$50,000 might make me think about parting with my 88. No promises though. :D

Don't buy Frams.

There is nothing wrong with a pressurized system. The parts just may require a bit of maintenance after spending 20 years in a truck. I swapped in a 91 radiator (old one went south) just to get a cap and a second place to add liquid. Never had a problem since (with the pressure-related stuff, I've had e-fan failures and pump failures). Still running the same ol' pressure bottle and cap too.

113 119 101

For what it's worth, car-part.com shows CADs available through 93.

Look for ABS. I don't remember which year was the start (89? 92?), but ABS XJs after that should have the 297 joints. And I think it's 97 where all XJs got the 297s. If anyone has the exact info, feel free to chime in. :D

200 is a fairly good deal if the axle is complete and the rotors are good. Make sure the e-brake stuff inside is in good shape if you plan on use it. Stock gears for a 4.0/manual is 3.07. Good gears for 31s would be 3.55 and that's a common ratio for the 8.8s and Dana 30s. Don't forget that your new AX-15 won't bolt to the current T-case. You'll need a 23 spline t-case too.

Keep in mind that the body is a structural part of the MJ and XJ. Alterations must be thoroughly thought out to keep it from bending or cracking in the altered locations once you start thumping it offroad. Plus there's the safety aspect if it's your daily driver.

Getting the right gears is the most important thing. CAD or no CAD is secondary since both axles are arguably the same strength and most of the axles you find out there will still have the smaller joints in them.

Yup. Explorers and Mountaineers. 95+ have disks. car-part.com can help you locate one.

I'd put it all together and see how it sits. Then if it needs another inch, I'd consider a longer shackle.

Yes and no. It's incredibly light and strong (when in good shape), but it's still just a boxed double layer of sheetmetal.

kbb.com is another good source for prices, but they tend to be more accurate with newer vehicles than old.

Hey, if I was a millionaire, I'd have no problem throwing $5000 at him to get that truck. But last I checked I'm not a millionaire, so I guess I'll focus on building up my latest $300 rust bucket. :D