Pete M

And you should get a ComancheClub sticker for the windshield too. :D If you're looking for a single parts car, the 3.55s are inevitable. You won't find a 242 with a 3.07 and I doubt they ever came with the 2.5L (can't say for sure though). The 2.5L was available in the Cherokee though, so 4.10/non-CAD axles are out there. Another option for the rear is the Explorer 8.8 with 3.55s or 4.10s, maybe posi, and 95+ had disk brakes. A search should pull up plenty of info on that swap.

That's odd. But if it makes you feel any better, I can't recall an instance where someone lost their shaft like that. :hmm: You can bandaid it however you like, but the proper procedure is to get a driveshaft of the right length. Is the truck auto or manual?

I know it's somewhat of a crime, but I don't plan on offroading. I got too much invested in tha body. That's why I was thinking of 3.55's. I can't even use 5th gear right now with 3.07's I wasn't even thinking of offroad. Out there you just shift into low range and go. It's the on-the-pavement driving where I need to have enough gear to easily get the truck going and keep the engine in the right RPM range.

Yeah, if you can track down a 242, the XJ surrounding it will likely have 3.55 gears. 4.10s would be better, but anything is better than the crappy 3.07s. :D

Theoretically, but only a small fraction of an inch and certainly not enough to justify the effort. Plenty of guys go SOA and run the stock driveshaft with no issues, did you do anything different with your lift?

Well, admittedly most of what I can show you are of my truck (scanners broken), but I love snapping shots. I'm contemplating giving up my Elan-7e though. I've got way too many almost perfect shots and it's very frustrating. I know, I know, digital is the easy way out, but it's just soooooooo much easier to drop stuff onto my laptop right there and then to check the shot out. :D Cheesy sun shot: Unusual angles: And some where the colors came out nice: I have a great admiration for anyone that can take good pictures of dogs and kids, but cats are easy. :D

2wd shafts shouldn't be all that hard to find. Shortening a driveshaft is easier and safer than lengthening one, but it has been done before.

In no particular order: Metallica Led Zeppelin Beatles Collective Soul The Rolling Stones

I had my 2wd shaft cut down at a local shop for like $30.

It's best to have both the Haynes and the FSM. The FSM has more info and diagrams and such, but the Haynes comes in handy for certain procedures since sometimes the FSM assumes you're trained mechanic.

No need to thank me. I'm doing this purely for selfish reasons. It is soooooo satisfying to catch them before they can do anything. :D

Unless you want to use the Ford radius arms, then 78-79 are good too. :D Another option is running 33s.

You won't be in 4wd, you just will simply have the front axle shaft locked together so it can't fail to engage when you need it most. Jeep did the CAD thing for the theoretical gas mileage saved, but in reality there's no measurable difference. Heck, the Liberty that I borrow (for towing my MJ) saw no difference between 2wd and Awd on the roads.

None. Maybe. Don't know for sure. Still waiting on a determination from the Dean as to whether I'm a degreed Industrial Engineer or still just another schmuck college punk. :(

The page from the shop manual is the best I can do. I just throw away those stupid vacuum lines so I don't have a clue what goes where.

If you're not looking for much lift out back, try adding in a main leaf (with the eyes cut off) from an MJ or an Explorer leaf pack. Just insert it under your current main leaf and you'll gain maybe an inch plus added carrying capacity (or more importantly, extra resistance to sagging). Quality gas shocks would also be a plus.

I'm not sure if it'll be a permanent thing, but for the time being I'm going to be approving each new member individually. It's only been a few days now using my new strategy, but so far I've caught several spammers before they could strike. :D And I've got a growing list of blocked email addys. So no one run out and get an email ending in @please-email-me.info or @click-me-now.info or @medandpharm.info cause those are soooooo banned. :hateputers:

Make sure you get a long AAL, not a short AAL. Both varieties exist out there and the long one should ride better than the short.

ebay, and I got insanely lucky with the price: $30 with shipping. Don't expect to see that again though. I waited for weeks before ANY of the correct arms came up. car-part.com would probably be a better source. Don't forget to search for other WJ parts and then contact the junkyard about getting arms. I never did get an answer from anyone about whether or not the upper arms fit. I'm betting they do, but can't find any to try.

You live down the street, I'm certain we can find another weekend. :D After all, the Mounds is the closest legal wheeling spot to us (not that I've ever been there).

If you're measuring from the ground, a vehicle's weight would knock off an inch or 2 off the tire's diameter. If you measure from the front of the tire to the back of the tire, you should be real close to that of a tire just lying on the ground.

I'll be in Florida. :(

Dark red or burgundy or whatever the heck my '88 is. Hides the rust best. :D Seriously though, my favorite has to be the dark gray color of my '90. It's so dark it's almost black, but it's not black. :D

Are we all measuring the height of tires (that are mounted on a rig) from the ground to the top? :hmm: Or are we measuring from the front of the tire to the rear of the tire?

If you have stock rims, then you might have a bit of rubbing on the control arms when at full turn. Aftermarket rims will cure this, but then the tires sill contact the fenders. You can add a washer to the steering stops to prevent contact. Or, you can do as I did and install stock WJ lower control arms which have a bend in them to clear tires (see picture below). Plus they are a stronger arm and will have brand new bushings for a better ride. :D