Pete M

I'm terribly sorry, but I just couldn't resist. :razz:

What are you doing? :hmm:

Yup. Forum software made me do something, so that's what I did. :D

Mine didn't come with instructions, they came with the bellhousings. That's probably where my confusion originates. :roll:

That's what I was told too, except both my 99 TJ slave (in my 88 MJ) and my 96 XJ slave (in my 90 MJ) both have a bleeder screw. :dunno:

Out of curiosity, is there any particular reason you don't put all your pics into one thread? Nice tires by the way. :D

Isn't it just a small set screw that takes an allen wrench? I'm guessing you might be able to find one at a good hardware store. :dunno:

Also try car-part.com It's a search engine for lots of junkyards across the country.

Yes and no. It all depends on the individual parts in the lift. The front control ams are identical 2wd to 4wd, but the 2wd coils and leafs sit about an inch lower than 4wd. Kits that reuse your old springs may or may not turn out slightly different (like if you went SOA with 2wd leafs, you wouldn't get quite as much lift as 4wd leafs).

Members have come and gone since the very early days. It's just a fact of life that peoples' interests and priorities can change. I know you liked the old Yahoo format, but the club grew to a certain point and it just came time to move to a forum. Now everyone can post photos directly into their posts and they can read through a thread simply and easily. It just allows us to do way more things. (like have a projects section where you're going to post up lots of photos of the new rig, yes?) :D

That XJ is in need of this decal: There's never been a Jeep made that can't be repaired one more time!

and the flies start dropping.... :(

I screwed the extinguisher mounts to the plastic bedliner right above the wheelwells. There's one on each side for easy access by anyone on the trail. This is only for trail rides though, as most kinds of fire extinguishers don't like to be stored on their side longterm.

I guess if the trans bolts were long enough you could use them. I prefer to have dedicated engine stand bolts.

The arms splay outward and essentially pretend to be your transmission.

But 10.5s do fit better. And they are easier on drivetrains. These are all relative statements though and 12.5s can be made to work with the proper planning. :cheers: For what it's worth, I run 12.5s up front and 14s out back. :D But then I'm not running Jeep width axles anymore and don't really drive it on the street. :brows:

Nope. Yours will work just fine. Remember which way it faces though. I don't believe it's reversible.

Then I have a bunch of assorted tips. -I noticed in your ad that your were looking for 10" rims. I'd recommend 8"ers. They retain the bead better and the tire will stick out less. -I'd recommend 33x10.5s as they fit much better than 12.5s. BFG mud terrains come in that size as well as some other brands. Don't forget to look into the metric sizes too -You should look into upgrading the rear axle if you've got a Dana 35. -You'll want to upgrade the U-joints and shafts in the front axle. -Gearing, gearing, gearing. You'll want lower gearing to push those 33s around. -If you don't have flares and want some, look into the aftermarket variety as they are wider and bigger than stock. -I would go with a 4.5 inch lift kit and either go with full on aftermarket leaf packs or do SOA and find some Explorer or 2wd MJ leafpacks in the junkyards. (if you go with the Explorer, you'll need to reuse your main leaf and then cut the eyes off the explorer's main leaf and retain it too as an anti-wrap AAL.) What I would do: -4.5" coils -longer swaybar links (as opposed to drop brackets), -a quality adjustable track bar -stock YJ flexible brake lines (longer than stock MJ) and then relocate the brake line bracket on the body -New longer fixed lower control arms and adjustable upper control arms .....OR...... -drop brackets and stock UCA and WJ LCA (if you don't know what they are scroll down to the bottom of this page: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1556) -SOA the rear with a bastard pack created from either 2wd MJ leafs or 4-leaf Explorer pack and the original 4wd MJ main leaf .......OR..... -4.5" lift leafpacks -Mopar performance leaf perches (like $10 from the dealer) -new U-bolts (beefier than stock if possible) -A stock flexible rear brake line from a mid 90s Dakota (longer than stock MJ) -33x10.5" BFG muds or 34x10 swamper LTBs on stock TJ 15x8" aluminum rims -a junkyard Dana 30 from an XJ/MJ with 4.10 gears and then swap in the later modal Dana 30 shafts that have the bigger 297 U-joints -a late 90s Explorer 8.8 axle with 4.10s, posi, and disk brakes (I would buy a single 2" steel spacer and put it on the passenger side, then center the axle on the new WMSs and burn in the perches in the appropriate spots) -Mopar Performance leaf perches Whew. I hope I didn't miss anything. :roll: Feel free to ask about any of the gibberish I just spewed. :D

What size tire are you looking to run and what kind of offroading will you be doing?

Clever! :thumbsup: But it's not recommend that you pull from those two bumper mounts. They are just flimsy sheetmetal and not designed for pulling.

Spring compressors are sometimes loaned out by auto part stores like Autozone. Aside from that, I personally feel all the other tools you'll need you should own anyways so go get them. :D Don't forget to spray all the bolts down with PB Blaster or other rust penetrating spray (not WD-40) for several days before you plan to do work. And always always expect something to go wrong. For example, if the truck were a daily driver, it's best to start right after work on Friday to give the maximum amount of time. And on that note, if your truck is rusty like mine are, I highly recommend getting longer swaybar links rather than the sway bar drop brackets. Those bolts holding the sway bar up have a tendency to snap right off. On my 88 I snapped off 3 of 4 (and that's with spraying them down with PB for a week prior). Fortunately I ended up not needing a swaybar on that build. For my 90, I don't dare touch them. :(

Anti-seize? :D

Interiors are nothing. I could probably referb my entire interior for under $50 if a nice one comes through the pull-yur-part. Don't dawdle on this one. It sounds like a keeper.

Careful, you're going to spoil yourself with all that torque. :D And for the record, I'd give him the 2 Gs. Why squabble over such a small amount to get a great truck like that? Don't get me wrong, I'd still offer 1700, but I'd find something to sell to make up the difference if that's what it took. :brows:

There's always the junkyard in a pinch. :cheers: