Pete M

Seen a couple like that already. :needpics:

If you go with some sort of selectable lock for the front axle, be aware that, should you ever shift into awd without for sure locking the front axle, bad things will happen in your t-case. I feel it's better to just shim the fork over and not risk anything.

That company hiring? I haven't had a horrific injury in a while. :D

I hope everyone is aware of this. I just now caught it. For a split second I thought I had simply left a BYE week player on my roster. :roll:

Oh, that thing. I'll go check that out as soon as the rain stops (maybe by monday?).

Last I heard of a problem like that, it was a wet TPS. Got a hair dryer?

On a ba-10? A miracle. Or a swap to a later model AX-15 with matching 23 spline t-case. :D

The master, booster and front combination valve (the thing that looks like a prop valve) are all original 1988 parts as far as I know. Where is this check valve? I'm going to need a bit more direction on that.

You'd be the only one on the road, that's for sure. :cheers:

My biggest issue with the stock Jeep headlights is the insane length of wire that the electricity has to travel around the engine bay. Wire length and corrosion are the enemy. If I drove my trucks with any sort of regularity, I'd wire the headlights to use the factory switch to power a new relay that brings the electrons directly from the battery (with a fuse of course). I know it'd make a world of difference in my trucks.

I don't think it's necessary, but I added a very thin layer and essentially glued the gasket to the pan to help hold the gasket steady during installation of the pan. It's an old habit left over from using the multi-piece cork gaskets.

If you've got the 2.5, then you have an AX-5 and a 21 spline output shaft and an np-231 t-case. car-part.com may be of help in locating a junkyard transmission.

He's got an 87.

I know a couple guys have talked about it (including me). A search through the projects forum brought up that rockhardzj seems to have, but he didn't have any pictures. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5110

Not being a smartass, but... ;) :cheers: :razz: I found the problem with my post: "Posted: 13 Sep 2008 03:14 am" Gotta find a way to resist having one more look before bed. :D

I believe the computer turns on the relay which turns on the pump.

Out of curiosity, what brand oil filter are you running?

How well do you understand how stresses affect sheetmetal frames?

Please tell me this is going into a Dana 44 or 8.25 or 8.8...

Until I figured out the real issue in my truck (totally unrelated to your problems unfortunately), I was prepared to wire the pump to a switch in the dash (through an aftermarket relay).

This one turned out to be ineffective. It filled up after a few hours on the highway on my way out to Moab. I dealt with it til Colorado and then fabbed what is there now.

I tried one of those air breather on my truck and all it did was spew oil up into and then out of that breather. :( (admittedly my truck has incredibly bad blow-by)

As I understand it, when you first turn the key to "run", the pump turns on for a short bit to make sure the fuel pressure is up to spec, then it shuts off. When you turn to "start", the fuel pump should get full voltage. After the engine has started, the fuel pump should get full voltage until you kill the ignition. If you're screwing around with checking voltage, you can disconnect the wire that engages the starter and then you're free to have someone hold the key to "start" without wasting your battery on cranking the truck indefinitely.

When are you testing for 12 volts? During cranking? With the key turned? The fuel pump should get power for only a brief moment after the key is turned to the run position (meaning not all the way to start). Which wire are you checking for voltage? If I remember right, I believe the one in the middle is for the fuel level sensor and puts out some voltage (4 or 5 maybe?), but not a full 12 volts.

IAC? TPS?