Pete M

All my photos are about 2 megs in size if anyone wants me to email them anything in particular.

I'm sure it depends on what type of work an individual has done to a particular engine. :D I'm sure they all have their sore points. I despise the Ford 4.6 motor. :shake:

Gearing can easily cost over a grand. Be prepared for that. Also, don't ever spend that much on a Dana 35 rear axle. Invest your money into something that will last. :thumbsup: Selling/trading the tires and getting some aggressive 31s would be my plan of action. Just cause it's a good deal, doesn't mean it's a good idea. :cheers:

Here we are hauling it to the starting line. Getting ready to run And eventually I'll figure out how to upload my video.

This is the method they used to drop the axle below the big engine pan:

And now the Lakeviewcruiser:

For this particular class, you must retain the stock gas tank. It's non-functional in WFC's truck, but it has to be there. So Scott simply carved out a hole for the upper four-link bar to fit.

battery and fuel cell in the bed. There's also a 60 gallon tank for ballast water in front of the fuel cell

I do apologize for not having more pics. Turned out I only had one opportunity to snap pics for each truck and I didn't realize it at the time. Thankfully I snapped some (that's what they teach you in photography: snap now and snap often). First up is WFC's MJ:

Then it looks like you'll need to buy or build a means to mount the shackle. I'm not all that familiar with the rearend of an XJ, is the bumper close enough to integrate the rear shackle into a super-strong (and firmly attached) bumper?

It is very VERY important that you have some SOLID extraction attachment points front and rear. This comes before any lift or tires. Also, some aggressive 31s will suit you just fine. :thumbsup: 33s only give 1" more ground clearance.

Cut off the eyes and stick the MJ leafs under the XJ main? To that extent you can probably use S-10 leafpacks too. I seem to remember they have a decent arch in them. :dunno:

I've not been there personally, but I've seen pictures of haspin and know that some members here have been there and loved it. :thumbsup: Also, if you start a new thread about it in the Pub, I'm sure you'll get more opinions. :D

Right about halfway between the master and slave (my TJ line was cut by the junkyard).

The sensor on top of the bellhousing...is that the CPS? Doesn't it read the gaps in the flywheel? If my memory serves me correctly, the gaps seemed different between the 94 XJ flywheel and the 90 MJ flywheel in my case. I'll assume it has to do with Renix v/s AMC? In either case, I reinstalled the MJ flywheel just to be safe. Am I way off here? Yes, you are correct. That is the crankshaft position sensor and you must keep the Renix flywheel and Renix CPS with the Renix computer. :thumbsup: Both the outer and inner pilot bearing/bushing diameters changed between the Renix years and the TJ years. I used the CJ pilot bushing and it works out just perfect. :D

I remember reading that AA had some special headers for the conversion. But if stock will work, then it's all good. :D

Have you looked at the advanceadapters site yet? IT's been a long time since I even thought about the swap, but I seem to remember that the exhaust manifolds were an issue. :dunno:

yes, it could be. The track bar centers the axle left to right. If any part of that bar or its bracket are sloppy, it could result in both issues you're experiencing.

Ah, yes. Back in the day. :D Anyone else break something?

and they are 2.5" wide. :thumbsup:

I say swap it in! :D But then I have a sucker for tough projects. But before you do, go look at the advanceadapters.com or novak engineering websites. They'll have what you need to do it right, and it might not be cheap. :(

Oh well.

If you can safely stretch the frame (or whatever it would take), than stock MJ leafs should give a pretty decent lift on an XJ. I'd guess in the neighborhood of 4-5", but that's just a guess. Could be as high as 6 if the leafs are 4x4 versions and in good shape.

My best guess is cheap guts in the orange tops. Might be a design flaw or quality control issues or a combo of the three. I had one collapse on my and leave me with 0 oil pressure(in the middle of a 10 hour drive no less). :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: