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Everything posted by Pete M
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holy crap, what don't I bring. oh wait, that's right, a water pump. :shake: The one thing that truly let me down. At least it was on the way home from the 3 week trip. I generally bring everything I can think of. U-joints, pair of axle shafts for the front, one for the rear, spare hub, tie-rod, various light bulbs, fuses and engine sensors, lug nuts, wire/hose, nuts/bolts/screws, engine belt, 3 gal of drinkable water, full oil change, alternator, and I'm sure I'm missing stuff. Yeah, I'm that guy. :D If it fits, it goes with me. But since I have Ford axles and a lot of custom parts, I also bring spares for Jeeps too. tie rod, front axle shafts, unit bearing, Dana 35 C-clip rear axle shafts, HO sensors, etc. Just stuff I had left over. But I don't necessarily carry all that heavy stuff with me on the trail. I'll leave it behind at camp.
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interesting. :brows: Keep us posted on how it does. :thumbsup:
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Best advice I can give is don't buy the cheapest ones. Middle of the road is way better. Something gas-charged would be nice. :cheers:
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don't forget to send the full size images to petermontie AT hotmail.com :cheers:
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Yeah, I'd like to see how exactly the test was run. :dunno:
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The AX-15 is bigger overall, has bigger ribs and has a huge thick ring around the midsection (for the life of me I can't keep it straight if it's steel or aluminum, but the AX-15 has the one material, the AX-5 has the other). The peugeot was already in existence (over in france-land) when the 4.0 was first installed and it was run behind weaker engines. The 4.0L was a BEAST for a 6-banger back in the day.
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You hit the nail on the head. It's a light duty trans that's barely rated for the power of the 4.0L. Whereas most manual trans missions are rated for 150%, 200% (or even more) of the engine's power, the Peugeot is borderline around 100%. One number I found online years ago puts it at 90%. In theory they can blow at any time, but typically they throw hissy-fits beforehand, like rough shifting or reverse refusing to go into gear. Mine did that now and again, then one day while just idling along on the freeway, it went BANG and blew a hole out the side of the case, draining the oil and causing me a ton of grief as I tried to limp my way home. Bottom line: be kind to it and it will live longer, but be prepared and know what to do when it fails. :thumbsup: you can see the difference in beef in this pic of the AX-15 next to the Peugeot.
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You hit the nail on the head. It's a light duty trans that's barely rated for the power of the 4.0L. Whereas most manual trans missions are rated for 150%, 200% (or even more) of the engine's power, the Peugeot is borderline around 100%. One number I found online years ago puts it at 90%. In theory they can blow at any time, but typically they throw hissy-fits beforehand, like rough shifting or reverse refusing to go into gear. Mine did that now and again, then one day while just idling along on the freeway, it went BANG and blew a hole out the side of the case, draining the oil and causing me a ton of grief as I tried to limp my way home. Bottom line: be kind to it and it will live longer, but be prepared and know what to do when it fails. :thumbsup: you can see the difference in beef in this pic of the AX-15 next to the Peugeot.
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no one? :dunno: no one has any old mags with MJ ads?
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just wanted to be sure, since a 3" lift and an 8.25 should cancel each other out pretty good. :dunno:
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what engine do you have? What axles and gears are you swapping in to handle those tires?
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Nice lookin' truck. :thumbsup: I wish I had something that clean purty. :(
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this is on the Jeep with a 3" lift?
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Are you talking about doubling up aftermarket spacers, or the stock isolators?
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what is it that you're trying to do?
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86 2.5 runs like crap til warm. HELP PLEASE!!!!!!
Pete M replied to smelser125's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
some sensors are used at startup (TPS, CPS, etc), others are not (o2, etc). -
maybe.
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If you're on a tight budget, sticking with a 2" lift will allow you to retain most of your current parts. Basically you'll need spacers up front and an AAL out back and that's it. With 3", you're starting to change the geometry of the system to the point where more and more stock parts are too short.
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86 2.5 runs like crap til warm. HELP PLEASE!!!!!!
Pete M replied to smelser125's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Could be that your IAC (idle speed controller) is stuck in the warmed up position. :dunno: -
I'd focus on 31s for a 3" lift and a stock Dana 30/35 combo
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update: a buddy of mine (who hopefully is still a friend) moved the 86, 90, and the minivan for me today. Those were the three with disassembled interiors. I talked him through the startup procedures (which are complicated and unique for all three) in real-time. Let it never be said that i don't know my own rigs. :D The 88 is complete. Nothing has been removed inside or out. If they tow it, I'm suing. I might move it myself this weekend, but we'll see how the rest of this debacle plays out.
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Quick backstory for anyone that doesn't know: my fleet is parked across the street from my house in the doctor's office parking lot. He's an old friend of the family and long-story-short, we trade parking privileges for yard work. More backstory that most won't know: the city recently did street work in front of my house and we've been back and forth over the sudden arrival of a fire hydrant that ate up both parking spots in front of the house, and the planting bed that they actually took us to court over the planting area being an "encumbrance on public property", when the judge ruled that not only was the 6" elevation change not an encumbrance, but also that the city couldn't prove that the grass on the other side of the sidewalk was actually public land, and thus that the city had no jurisdiction. Bite me Riverview. :fs1: So now they return fire... Halfway down to Georgia (heading down from Michigan for the week to visit my sister) I get a call from my mother saying that the Doctor got a warning about the trucks and that he apparently had 5 days to remove them. something about being a blight. :dunno: :rotfl2: Last I checked, they were all externally intact, plated, insured, legally drivable and on private commercial property. I even move them once a month as per the rules. Now I'm in a mad scramble to get my lawyer involved on the doctor's behalf and to scrounge up some help to get the fleet moved to, uh, somewhere else for the time being. :dunno: I've looked up the laws, and as far as I can tell by the letter of the law, my crap ain't a blight. the only thing I can find is that 3 of them have a partially dismantled interior (one being my minivan), but it's not like the law says that exactly. It's been left kinda vague (on purpose I'm sure). And there's no WAY you could ever tell that from the sidewalk. Ya gotta walk onto private land to see that. :rant: None of this would be much concern except that I'm 700 miles away. :wall: More updates as events warrant...
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86 MJ 2.5L 5spd What to beware of?
Pete M replied to Jax2A's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
and floor rust starts under the carpet, not under the truck. If you can see rust under the truck, chances are good that it's much much worse under the carpet. :( Gotta pull back the edges of the carpet and check for moisture and/or a bad smell. -
What i would do if I were to build another MJ: cheap 87+ 4.0L 2wd MJ (pick your poison: stick or auto) 4wd trans (AX-15 if stick) 231 t-case ~5" lift (including shocks) extra main leaf for the rear packs (or some sort of anti-wrap bar) YJ brake lines up front Dakota brake line for the rear used 33" tires used aftermarket rims (for less backspacing) 4.10 MJ/XJ front axle with the bigger 760 U-joints installed v8 ZJ tie-rod up front 4.10 Explorer 8.8 with disks and open diff (non-posi, so I can easily install a locker) 1.5" rim spacers for rear axle (good ones, not cheap ones) Aussie lockers for front and rear front shaft rear shaft (2wd shaft shortened to length) custom rollbar (a real one, welded to the frame) I'd probably add in a dual diaphram brake booster while I'm at it. I imagine I can do the whole thing for around 3 grand as long as the initial truck didn't need too much work and I can find the used parts at the local pull-a-part. If there's more budget allowed, I could see myself upgrading the gears to 4.88s and doing the work to properly fit 35s.
