Pete M

story of my life... :D

I have a feeling that the tires aren't balanced because he can't find a shop that's willing to try, and the sway bar isn't installed because he or the previous owner snapped the bolts off and can't get the pieces out. be afraid, be very afraid. I'd run away from that one and find a stocker that I could build up. There's nothing worse than trying to fix someone else's thrashed-to-hell basket case. :( but if you do buy it, we're here to help. :thumbsup:

2x2" square and I think 1 3/4" tube.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... =2&t=14889

be careful with the crossmember bolts. spray them with PB Blaster or the like for a few days before attempting to undo them. they like to snap right off. :(

crossmember relocation?

I haven't used an XJ leaf yet. But when I was mixing in Explorer leafs, I drilled them all out to the bigger Explorer diameter. had to break out the "nice" drill bits for that one. and use plenty of cutting oil. that spring steel doesn't mess around. :ack:

the poll feature is broken. :( I vote on, and painted black. :yes:

It's not hard to build your own, though MJ rails have a few challenges to them. namely the frame is sheetmetal, and many of us don't really have any pinch seam left to supplement the frame mounts (plus the pinch seam doesn't extend past the cab). I worked around both issues by drilling holes through the frame and pushing the stringer bars through and welding them to both sides. I've dropped the MJ on them. :D I tucked my in to the body as much as I could, but you could extend them out more for use as a step. oh, and if you weld, be sure to use an adapter plate so as to spread out the load on the sheetmetal.

snazzy. :D

keep in mind that you might have tire rubbing on the bed wall when the rear tires flex up. a set of quality wheel spacers should fix that (as well as make the front and rear match in terms of tire sticking out from the fenders). or you can extend the bumpstops. or both. :thumbsup: extended bumpstops up front might be good too.

33x10.5s will work great. 33x12.5s, not so much. It's not just width of the tire vs width of the rim though. 33x12.5s on factory rims will pull that big fat tire in reeeeeal close. aftermarket rims will push the tire out for more turning radius. but again, 33x10.5s will work in that aspect too.

yeah, I needed the garage space for something else and so rushed it the first time and forgot to re-tighten the bolts once the truck's weight was on them. :doh:

I don't need to talk them into anything. My sis is already a Jeep nut. :D I'm contemplating building a pedal powered MJ for the kid in a couple years. :brows:

Just got word my sis had her baby boy. guess I'm an uncle now. :cheers:

sorta. It's now rotated back to where I want it, but the truck is still up on the stands.

a-yup. :thumbsup:

I've yet to see a TB valve not fully open up. :dunno: but I guess it's possible. only one way to know for sure and that's to check. just be sure that any adjustment you make won't contribute to a problem down the road, like stretching the cable even more, breaking some linkage on the TB, etc. I gotta imagine my lead foot is a lot stronger than the parts between it and the TB. :yes:

I would do both. :thumbsup: if one went bad, the other could be on its way.

call it the poor man's high pinion axle. :rotf: or the u-joint killa. :yes:

my phone makes phone calls. :dunno: though with the new lower data plans, I might now be able to upgrade. :D

my guess is that you tried to copy an address from google. gotta go to the actual page. should look something like this (without the spaces of course). http://www .technovelgy. com/graphics/content09/james-bond-remote-control-car.jpg and then highlight it and click the IMG tag above the text box. if you want to post a photo, it needs to end in a photo extension like jgp or gif. you posted a link.

uh oh... one more and you'll have more than me. :D

shims? I don't see why you would need shims. :dunno: as to the clips, I used a thinner bolt before (see photo below), but later removed it and have been running the stock clips without bolts for years with no problems . the only thing is that when up on a lift, it's possible for the upper leaf to pull out and then catch the very edge of the clip when the truck is put back on the ground. a quick whack with a hammer puts it back in place. only happened once so far. the one thing you will need for sure is a new center bolt. I used a grade 8 allen head bolt from the hardware store. You should also replace the U-bolts, as thy stretch when installed and can weaken if re-stretched.

that likely won't do anything. XJ leafs have a lot less arch than an MJ's and so it will probably not touch the other leafs. But you might get a small bump (maybe an inch) by installing the XJ main leaf (with the eyes cut off) right under your current main. You'll get a bit more load capacity too.