mjeff87

finally came to a supermarket near me picked up a 12 pk of bottles on the way home from work today 9 beers in, and they are yummy that is all.... Jeff

I have to disagree with you possum......you've got it backwards. The plug on the passenger side is in the trans body midsection, and behind it is a detent ball and spring. Plus, it's much higher up. The fill plug is on the driverside, on the front section of the tranny: Image Not Found

yeah, I know.....it just really cheezes me off. This one is supposed to be the nice Jeep, that doesn't leak anything. I now have a leaking axletube and some kind of mystery coolant leak from the front of the engine somewhere that I can't find, that only drips when it feels like it wants to. H@ll, the 200K+ MJ that I frankensteined together, with Pat's old 4.0L doesn't leak a drop (from the engine, but I do have a small seep from the D44 cover in the rear......I used a paper gasket last time).

I'm digging it..... "I shot your dog"..hillarious I might pick up a CD or two for some roadtrip music. Jeff

nothing at the auto store, but I've done an alternator in an interstate rest stop area 90 miles from home and any part of civilization, a starter in a grocery store lot, and a fuel pump in a U-store-em place parking lot. Funny, all three were on the MJ...... :oops: I do carry almost every tool I own in the toolbox in the bed (and wonder why I only get like 12 mpg) Jeff

Had to put rear brakes on the TJ last weekend, and discovered this bit of loveliness at the rear axle.........this thing barely has 100K on it, and has never been offroad. Anyone think some RTV around the tube would help any? :headpop: Jeff Image Not Found

dash and taillights are connected, and for a reason. Some brainiac decided to wire them together so that if the tails go out the dash lights will also....to let the driver know they have no taillights. I troubleshot my dash lights for a long time when they went out a few years ago. Turned out that the wire going into the INST LIGHT fuse in the block from the back loosened up and was making intermittent contact.....I only found it by accident one evening when it was dark out and I was wiggling the fuse. I saw tiny, dim flashes coming from behind the fuseblock. Jeff

most of you are missing the funny part....... ;) Jeff

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don't forget to hang yer laundry off the winch cable in the front yard too..... :D Jeff

Tim fear not the 4.0 swap.....even in your 86 there's plenty of knowledge here to help you :cheers: Jeff

I've always reused the originals...never had a problem. You might want to replace that torx plug with a regular hex head or pipe plug, though. I personally hate torx..... Jeff

if that torx plug is on the driver side of the trans, about half way up the side, it is the fill plug. Alternately, you can pull the shifter out of the top of the trans and fill it from inside the cab. Jeff (the fill plug on my TJ is the same plug with the same warning.....I guess you're never supposed to change the fluid :shake: )

our children…….from left to right, Speedbump, Cracker, and Autumn Image Not Found and before any of you say that we feed them too much…….we don’t :D . Here’s a shot of my wife’s aunt and uncle’s cat, Buttons. She comes in at a svelt 26 lbs (our Autumn is the largest of ours and is only a light heavyweight at 22 lbs :roll: ) Image Not Found Jeff

negative....flywheel bolts are about 1/2" longer than flexplate bolts. Same thread/pitch, though. Jeff

another possibility.....your original trans may have been bad, and it could have been a 21 spline output with a matching 21 spline input TC. The ZJ trans is a 23 spline. Your 21 spline TC will bolt up to a 23 spline output tranny, but there's no spline engagement between the two....the output just spins inside the input gear. Had it happen to me swapping an AX5 into a buddy's YJ in place of a TF909. Neither of us ever figured a 909 had a 23 spline output and didn't bother checking, just slid the 21 spline 231 onto it and couldn't figure out why it didn't move. :dunno: Oops... Jeff

if it's an 87, there could also be a stamped plate on the driverside radiator support (beside where the end of the hood prop rod rests when it's stored in it's clip). The first code on the bottom set of numbers in the left corner are the paint codes. Per the FSM, "4M" is the code for Charcol Gray Metallic Clearcoat. HTH, Jeff

Genovast new avatar FTW!!! :ROTFLMAO: :cheers:

they are E12's..... if they're boogered up past the point of no return, you can use a set of those damaged fastener-head extractors. They work well. Replace those with regular hex head bolts upon re-installation and never go thru the frustration again Jeff

this music is a variable blend of MANY different genres.....you really have to listen to more than just one of their tunes. F'rinstance....here's one for all you David Gilmore fans (and if you don't know who he is, well...shame on you): I've got the CD coming to me tomorrow. Good thing, 'cause the wife and I have to roadtrip up to PA on Thursday. At least we'll have good tunes for the trip. The album (CD) is titled "Meat the Meatbats". Enjoy. Jeff

by wiring harness, we mean the COMPLETE harness both underhood and interior. Since you're using an XJ donor you'll also have to splice in the MJ sub-harness in the cab that feeds the rear lighting circuit and fuel pump (MJ is slightly different than XJ in rear lighting circuitry). Your list is pretty much complete, though. I'd suggest you strip the MJ engine bay bare first, then swap the XJ harnesses in and start transferring everything from under the XJ hood into the MJ. Jeff

Chad Smith (drummer for Red Hot Chili Peppers and Chickenfoot) has also formed his own all-instrumental band......the premier album releases today. Go......see........do........ Here's one of the tracks (my favorite, bread balls :chillin: ):

The frame horns on XJ/MJ's are bolted on (not like TJ's that are welded). You'll need a set of 4.0 horns, the bolt holes/studs are there already so you can just bolt them in. 2.5 engine mounts look very similar to 4.0 ones but won't work...you'll need 4.0 ones. Couple other things that are different, aside from all the wiring: -throttle cable -radiator (remove the 2.5 radiator shroud brackets and the 4.0 one drops in) -coolant overflow bottle of some kind for open system (I reused the 2.5 one but had to modify the wiring harness on the driverside fenderwell and eliminate the EGR solenoid) -cover plate on transmission tunnel above shifter -fuel lines, you'll have to splice the 2.5 ones into the 4.0 fuel rail (I used rubber fuel line, some barbed fittings and clamps) -fuel pump (you need a 4.0 one, runs at a higher psi) Have fun :D Jeff edit: disregard the coolant overflow bottle.....you can use the stock HO one out of your XJ. I couldn't use the HO setup on my renix swap because of the way the overflow mounts by the coil area, that's why I reused the 2.5 one.

I ended up going 36H X 72W X24 deep on it…..I gotta be able to get the MJ in in front of it. $40 in lumber in the bench, so far. I’m gonna do pegboard on the back wall and extend the shelf unit over top but I ran out of time today. Wahoo stopped by after the weekend race since he was in town and we had a few brews…. :cheers: Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found

Thanks guys. There will be some girly crap, but it's all going on that very top shelf where I won't have to look at it :D Gonna run to Lowe's and get some more lumber and build the workbench now. Nothing huge, just something to mount my vise on. 6' X 18" X 40", with a shelf underneath oughta do it. Jeff