mjeff87

I don't have that kind of scratch lying around (nor will I ever, probably) but that is a VERY modest asking price considering what he's done to it and what he's put into it. Hope he gets it, or even more.....it's definately worth it. Jeff

you'll net at least 5" with an SOA, depending on a few things (2WD vs 4WD springpacks, condition of springs, type of perches you use, etc.). The front is a whole different can of worms. At a minimum, you're looking at longer/adjustable control arms, trackbar, swaybar links, shocks and brakelines. SOA is cheap for the rear (about $50 for perches and new U-bolts), not so much for the front end. Jeff

come income tax check time I'm thinking about getting one of these for da MJ......$219, with an additional 10% off using a discount code. It's actually designed to incorporate tabs for a link system, but I don't plan on doing that anytime soon. Discuss..... http://undercoverfab.com/truss-systems/ ... ystem.html

the maturity level on this board slips furthur away with each passing day..... :shake: (jimoshel, maddzz1, gambit4000s, dakal and akamcbird, I'm not referring to any of you) Jeff

I can't find my copy of it at the moment, but click on over to the Pirate website and navigate your way to Billavista's tech repository.....there's a .pdf of the AX15 service manual there amongst the millions of other great tech info. It covers the complete teardown and reassembly of the AX15, you can see the parts I'm talking about. There's a plug on the passenger side intermediate plate (I think) that holds the check ball/spring assembly I'm talking about. Jeff

one of the plug bolts on the passenger side holds the spring and check ball inside the tranny housing for that shift rail. Unscrew it (carefully) and remove the spring and check ball, then shift it out of gear. Reinstall everything and you should be good to go. I've got a .pdf file on the AX trans somewhere that shows an exploded view, lemme see if I can find it. I'll post it up if I can. Jeff

The uber-rare economy/fuel miser package.......I've yet to see one of those setups live and in person. About as rare as the stock 4.56 pacakge, which I've seen several of (and am running a stock D30/4.56 from one of in my MJ currently ;) ) Jeff

I'd love to take that skidder for a quick little ride.....any chance they left the keys in it? :D Jeff

That has GOT to be your house Bob.....with a garage, attached to a garage, attached to a garage, with an attached shed....... ;) where you hiding the fleet at? Jeff

I'm assuming you're the same guy who posted the same question over on NAXJA :roll: I'll repeat.....the quickest, SAFEST, and easiest solution for you is a class III hitch. don't put a D-ring thru the trailer-ball hole on the factory bumper don't hook to anything on the suspension when you develop the fab skills or can afford to pay someone who has them, build a rear bumper that incorporates recovery points. Jeff edit: welcome to CC

'twas a bad TCU......all fixxed now ;) Jeff

could be a loose speedometer cable. It's held to the UCA bolt with a small springy clip which may have fallen off. Jeff

87+ 4.0L, with closed cooling systems, yes...pressure bottle is on the firewall. 2.5's all have/had the overflow bottle sandwiched between the driverside fender and the airbox. I've yet to run across a 2.5 with a closed cooling system (doesn't mean they don't exist, just that I've never heard of one nor seen one ;) ) FWIW, my 87 was a 2.5 originally, with the overflow on the fender. I reused it in it's stock location when I swapped the 4.0L into it and kept the open cooling system. Jeff

It's not 86 unique, but it is 2.5L unique. I've got a spare one if you can't find one locally, PM me if so. Jeff

I'd be lying if I said I didn't exercise some of that same "wisdom" at a younger age as well :oops: Jeff

the older style switches on our MJ's aren't adjustable per se, they are a funky little arrangement that attach via the through-bolt on the top of the pedal rod. It's a spring loaded switch with a small plastic shim inside of it that can become very finicky. You may need to replace the plastic shim to get yours to function better. Newer style (mid-90's XJ's) use a plunger-style contact switch at the top of the pedal assembly, which is vastly easier to adjust. Jeff

or....don't burn your tires thru a crossroad.....

also......get a tranny jack. Jeff

hopefully the driveway is concrete or asphalt, not gravel/dirt. Try not to make a mess......use some old shower curtains or large pieces of cardboard underneath, or even a piece of 7/16" OSB (about $6 for a 4X8 sheet at Lowe's). Beg, borrow, or rent a tranny jack. If it were a manual tranny, you could get by with the floor jacks and whatnot, but an AW4 is considerably heavier, even moreso if you plan on dropping the tranny/TC as one unit. Think safety above all else. Ratcheting 9/16" wrench is a godsend if you plan on divorcing the TC from the trans prior to dropping it (for the 6 nuts holding it to the tranny), and you'll need an E12 socket and a boatload of extensions for the two top bellhousing bolts. 5/16" or 8mm to remove the driveshaft yoke bolts for the front/rear driveshafts, and either an offset box-end or other type of 1/2" or 10mm wrench (depending on which style of boltheads) for the four bolts holding the front driveshaft DC to the front TC yoke. 13mm socket for the tranny mount bolts, and a 15mm for the crossmember bolts/nuts. Bellhousing bolts other than the two top ones are either 18mm or 3/4" IIRC, and you'll need 1/2" for the dust cover/inspection plate bolts. Oh, did I also mention a tranny jack? Yeah, do yourself a favor and get one of those too ;) Jeff

cheap, fast, good pick two of the three options listed above, 'cause you're not gonna get all three. Jeff

see page 4 of my build post... viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11205&hilit=shadow&start=45 I have another post specificlly about the bearing/bushing....I'll see if I can find that one too. Jeff

I can't speak to the CJ bushing that others have used, but I can tell you how I did my setup. You need a bushing that presses into the back of the crank that has the matching OD of the crank surface, and an ID that matches the OD of the caged needle bearing that fits the tip of the input shaft on the tranny. All of that info is in my 4.0 swap post....I'll post up a link to it when (if) I find it via the super-spectacular search feature ;) Jeff

thanks for that link....he's picking up a TCU from the 'yard today and getting a new TPS. I might run down with my meter later on tonight after dinner and see what's going on. :cheers: Jeff

the VSS/speedo gear housing should swap directly.....

they are not a regular hex head bolt.......Advance Auto has them (maybe not in stock but can PDQ them in a day or so): http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... -with-9-10"-(22-86-mm)-Length-and-19-100-(4-83-mm)-Head-Dorman_22142711-P_N3352A_P|GRP2060____ edit: I can't get the page link to copy correctly.......go to AA website and search for "flywheel" they will come up listed. Dorman part #14052