mjeff87

you running bastard packs, or are those metric ton packs, Nate? I'm diggin' the rust, too....reminds me sooo much of home in PA :D Jeff

try it now, sorry...

Wiley Coyote and Acme products ain't got nothin' on this..... http://tinyurl.com/3dwtno amazing wish I had that kinda time on my hands :roll: Jeff

Got inspired last night after work and decided to test mount it. For now, I tied the brackets into the tow hook brackets (including the L shaped front ones) I already have on. I had to notch out the front of the tow hook brackets a tiny bit, but other than that, it was a bolt-on job. I’ll probably end up taking the tow hook brackets off and building a new bracket altogether, so I can tuck it a bit further back toward the grill. But for now, it’ll work. Couple pics….. Sticks out just a wee bit Image Not Found got to clean up underneath, but here’s a front shot Image Not Found had to notch the bracket a tad (in hindsight, I should have notched the bumper instead of the bracket, but oh well…..) Image Not Found

Guy over on NAXJA (I think it was....) reinforced a stock one pretty nicely with some plating. Run a search over there for it, it's a good writeup with alot of good pics. Wasn't too long ago, IIRC. Jeff edit: here's the post.... http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77601

I did the same to my 2.5 a couple years ago, and used some kind of bio-degradable purple stuff I got from an Agri supply store. Pulled everything, including the lifters, out and put it in a shallow pan (in order) and covered it all with the stuff and let it sit for half a day. Then hit it all with a toothbrush, and they cleaned up all purty...looked brand new. Jeff

already replaced those on the current hatchback, unfortunately, and I think the passenger side one is about to take a crap again......

I'm in the market for a second gen Escort wagon, stick, at the moment. That's how much I like them, and a wagon will let me haul even more Jeep crap in the back of it (if that's even possible :D ) Jeff

The first ratchet wrench I bought was a 1/2"X9/16", specifically for the TC bolts. I now have a full set, metric and SAE...they rock. Jeff

Haaa....not my 2.5. Get's about 15-17 with a good stiff tailwind :oops: That's why I love my Escort, even though it's ghey looking. Just turned 180K on it yesterday, and it still gets right around 40 mpg (even better on roadtrips). It's about $3.05-$3.10 down here in the Richmond area. It gets cheaper the farther off I95 you drive. Jeff

If you have a manual tranny, and have the carpeting/cargo mat removed, you can access them from the inside. Pull the shifter boot, shifter, and metal plate that's screwed to the floor out and the two top studs are right there. But the big problem is the bottom bolt/stud....it's hidden by the tranny crossmember :cry: Jeff

not a 242, but a 228/229....old school Selectrac. Sounds like the linkage is out of adjustment. There is an adjustment procedure, but I'm not familiar with it. The vaccuum switch is actually what engages the case, not the lever, which only selects the range (H or L). I'd start by checking the vac line to see if there's any leaks, and once you've confirmed that, I'd check the diapragm attached to the case to make sure it's functioning correctly. If it is, then check the adjustment per the manual. HTH, Jeff

isn't that what's referred to as "overclocking" or something like that?

Welcome.....eh! (sorry, I just spent a week with two Canadian couples on vacation, and they rubbed off on me a bit :D ) Jeff

I'm glad you decided to embrace the sawzall :D Are you able to get that thing out of the garage, or do you need to sawzall the top of the garage door off, too??? :D Jeff

all that, and you forget to put 80/90W in a new differential???? :D (sorry, had to bust yer stones a bit there :jump: ) Jeff

3300 3581 from the dealership .pdf I have. That's the only hose I haven't replaced yet on the cooling system on my MJ. If you order it from the stealership, lemme know how much it was. Jeff

I'll be in King of Prussia for a long weekend in about 3 weeks....keep it cold (but not TOO cold) and I'll oblige your request :D Jeff

Notwithstanding the fact that you were doing 50, your post brings up a question I've long wanted an answer to..... at what specific point does the speed limit change, at the point where the sign is visible to oncoming traffic, or literally at the point the sign is sunk into the ground? Is there a concrete ruling on that, or does it vary according to jurisdiction? I don't have tickets, but my wife just got nabbed in almost the same situation as you. She was coming out of a 35 zone to a 55 zone, and had started accelerating before the sign. Po po got her for 55 in a 35 (but dropped it to some b/s thing like "not obeying posted traffic control devices". He wasn't in a talkative sort of mind, so she just signed and paid (I wasn't with her). To me, when you can clearly see a speed sign, is what the posted speed is at that point, not where the sign physically is. Anyone know for sure? Jeff

Do the old bottle-jack-between-the-frame-and-axle trick, thusly..... Image Not Found

creo que si :D Jeff

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... &start=255 last page of the (never-ending, hopefully) post, about 1/2 way down. He's got some good pics of what he did. Jeff

:drool: dat's a nice looking MJ...... (even has chrome mirrors for ya, Don!) Jeff

any 2.5 MJ/XJ from 87 onward, and earlier 4.0/AW4 combos (pre-91 from what I've seen). My 231 came from behind an 89 AW4. Stay away from YJ cases....some of them have long outputs vs. short but the AX5's they were bolted to had a recessed output, and they won't seal completely on an XJ/MJ tranny, plus there's barely 1/8" spline engagement. Also, 231's behind 904/909's are short, but they're 23 spline for some unknown reason :nuts: Jeff

Move down to VA, and it'll all come back to ya, quick. I had 5 years of it many moons ago, and thought I forgot most of it....'till I got here. And I had tacos for dinner last night, too... :D Jeff