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Everything posted by mjeff87
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I will be installing a glasspack on mine shortly, as soon as I get a short section of pipe bent to keep the exhaust in line with the rear hangers (to make up for the offset outlet on the OEM muffler). I'm going to run a short piece of pipe out the back to just past the rear hanger and then a turndown tip before the axle. If it sounds like @$$, I'll put another dynomax on it. Jeff
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need advice on what to do...
mjeff87 replied to comanche-man22's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
wasn't there an issue with some aftermarket 4.0 pumps involving the terminal markings being reversed on the pump? -
Sorry, I was off the boards over the weekend....my birthday and I was outta town. ejndssn- they came off a 2001 WJ in a local 'yard up here in RIC. IF you're ever up this way, lemme know and I'll take ya down (there are 2 of them, about 30 min apart, both owned by the same company). Jeff
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No lift, but they're boxed instead of C-channel (the front bushing is egg shaped instead of round to allow for torsional twisting), and have an offset in the center of them, which hepls prevent tire rubbing on full lock. They are the same length as regular XJ/MJ/ZJ arms, but you have to cut down the sleeve and bushing on the frameside a tad for them to fit into the mount. Pete M, and some others on NAXJA have installed them with great success. Run a quick search on here for Pete's post....he has lotsa nice pics of his install. I'm not gonna get to mine for a few weeks, at least....I just saw 'em and grabbed them today for a later install. Jeff
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Knocked off work early today and hit the junkyard. Stumbled across a WJ, and liberated the LCA’s. $12/ea :D Image Not Found Image Not Found Also, got my shackles back from getting sandblasted (thanks to my neighbor) : Image Not Found Image Not Found Shot some paint on the shackles and hung them to dry. I’m gonna put them in when I swap the D44 in, with new poly bushings. The LCA’s will go in when I lift the front to match the rear. Jeff
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FWIW, there are dissenting views of RC products over on NAXJA. Most of the opinions seem to suggest that RC stuff is not even comparable to OEM junk. But others (whom I've come to value the opinion of) have said their stuff is fine...not RE kinda fine, but for what you pay for it, it's functional. Jeff
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Dayum...sorry man. My interview was almost 2 hrs long, and there were 4 more after mine. I have no idea if I got it or not, but will probably know sometime next week. All I can do now is sit and worry about whether I got it or not.... :cry: How's the new house going? I envy you..... ;) Jeff
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Per the JCW website, it's 89.99. Can anyone comment on the RC bar? That $$$ is right in my budget (cheap!): http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Prod ... t=trackbar Jeff
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most usually get $100-$150...just depends on how badly someone needs it :D (I'm picking up a 242 for $25 this weekend, but there's a story behind it) Jeff
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Beware...Chuck and I found out the hard way when we converted his 2.5 YJ from auto (TF904) to manual (AX5), that the 904/909's are 23 spline output, not 21. If you start using YJ stuff, not everything behind the 2.5L is 21 spline. Jeff
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Stupid Front Bumper Noob Question
mjeff87 replied to UNL1MTD's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
That's why there's clips on there, because it's a bit hard to get a wrench in to hold a nut on the other side. I can't say what others have done, but I modded my bumper to accomodate a set of late model towhook/brackets. The brackets replace the factory bumper brackets, and the top bolt that holds the bumper on faces straight down from the top, instead of from the rear (which hides it on older models and you can't get a wrench on it either, without taking off the brackets from the framerail). And I replaced the two front clips with the factory L brackets for the towhook brackets, that have weld-nuts. Jeff Image Not Found -
john, How'd you make out on the interview??? Mine's in about 20 minutes. Hopefully I don't choke! Jeff
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I just swapped a set of junkyard 4WD leafpacks into my MJ, which was 2WD and had the stock packs. I was expecting the reported 1" in lift, but was presently surprised when I ended up getting 3" :D I did refurbish the packs, and pressed in all new eye bushings, though. I was planning on SOA when I swap axles out, but seeing I got 3" just from the packs, I might just stay SUA and use a long AAL to net 4" or thereabouts. How it sits now with the "new" leafpacks in it.....20.5" from center of hub to bottom of flare (still have to swap front springs and/or add spacers to level it, and get longer shocks and brakeline): Image Not Found Image Not Found
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I have a 3.07 MJ D44 too, wasn't planning to sell it, but if you're interested PM me. Jeff
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You guys have emissions testing down in Tidewater???? If not, I don't think that's part of a normal safety inspection. RENIX 4.0's had EGR's, but the HO versions deleted it and increased the valve overlap to accomplish the same thing. Jeff BTW, any licensed inspection station has to have the inspection procedures/checks visibly posted in the shop somewhere. Ask them to show you where it says EGR on it. Lemme check the State Police website and see what I can find (VSP regulates those inspectors) edit: C. INSPECT FOR AND REJECT IF: 1. The air pollution control system or device on motor vehicles registered in this Commonwealth and manufactured for the model year 1973 or for subsequent model years has been removed or otherwise rendered inoperable. The conversion of an engine to utilize low polluting fuels such as natural gas or propane may result in the removal of some part of the pollution control system; however, if the engine is converted to utilize both low polluting fuels and/or gasoline no part of the pollution control system or device can be removed or otherwise rendered inoperable. 2. Any of the essential parts of the pollution control system or devices on vehicles registered in this Commonwealth and manufactured for the model year 1973 or for subsequent model years have been removed, rendered inoperative or disconnected. This includes any belt, valve, pump, hose line, cap, cannister, catalytic converter and the restrictor in the gasoline tank filler neck on vehicles required to use unleaded fuel. NOTE: In order to determine if a motor vehicle was originally equipped with emissions control equipment, refer to the vehicle's emissions control information label which is usually located in the engine compartment. 3. The emission control system or device on motor vehicles registered in this Commonwealth and manufactured for the model year 1973 or for subsequent model years is not comparable to that designed for use upon the particular vehicle as standard factory equipment. Statutory Authority §§46.2-1048 and 46.2-1165 of the Code of Virginia. I suppose you could consider the EGR removed as a violation. You sure yours doesn't have one? They're kinda hard to miss......
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Gee, what did I end up doing for St. Pat's......... well, I ended up babysitting this whole pile of crap from about 7PM until 4:30 AM until someone came in to relieve me. Went home, slept till 10, and am now just back here at work, releiving him again so he can get some sleep. This is our diesel fire pump, and fire control unit. The circuit board that controls is decided to die, which makes the pump default to "run" because it sees no control voltage. Right now, I have it manually off and am doing a firewatch around a 160K square foot warehouse. Hopefully I can get out of here before midnight tonight :cry: My job sucks sometimes. Jeff The out of control pump Image Not Found Enunciator panel….geeee, really???? Image Not Found The dead control unit Image Not Found feels like I’m working on an aircraft carrier…. Image Not Found
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I put a winshield in, once, in a Chevy Citation.....I'll never do it again. How badly is it cracked (as in, can it be repaired in place)? I've had two small cracks/chips repaired on the MJ since I've owned it. "They" say if you can cover it with a dollar bill, it can be repaired. Jeff
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Well, I put the correct speedo gear in earlier today, and filled up the tank. Now I can get a more accurate reading on mileage. I might take that 200 mile trip tomorrow, so we'll see. Jeff
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actually, there are two different types of speedo ends. One is the flared metal ending mentioned, which is held by a metal spring clip that pushes in to release, and the other is a plastic end that has two locking tabs that you have to squeeze the opposite sides of to release. Think of a bottle of something that has a child-proof cap (like mouthwash, toilet bowl cleaner, etc...) and you get the idea of what I'm talking about. In any case, you should be able to pull the cluster out far enough to get a peek behind it to see what you're dealling with. In case you can't, the cable is held in place under the cab by a clippy thing that slips over the UCA bolt on the driverside...you can pop that clip off to create some slack in the cable to be able to pull the cluster out some. HTH, Jeff
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and that's why I drive a ghey Ford Escort as a DD....gets 32-35 mpg mixed, damn near 40 on roadtrips. I've long since given up on efficiency with the MJ, especially since the 4WD conversion and locking the CAD motor. Interestingly, though..I seem to be getting better mileage with the 4.56's now. It's too early to call it (haven't even ran a full tank of gas thru it) but the needle doesn't seem to be moving as far south as quickly as it did with the 4.10's. I've got a mini-roadtrip maybe this weekend, about 200 miles roundtrip, so we'll see for sure what effect the gears did. Weird, but deeper gears seem to increase my mileage :nuts: (but I haven't swapped my speedo gear out yet, and that does have an effect). Jeff
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Didja check the rotor or the dizzy cap first? Start simple, and work your way up.
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Nate, your dog has good taste..... For my low buck diff protection (for now), I'm going to snag a couple stock covers from the 'yard tomorrow ($4 each) and cut out the fill plug on one of them. Then I'll get my neighbor to weld the two together as he sees fit, and install the double cover with some longer bolts. It'll work until I get cabbage for aftermarket stuff. Jeff
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CW, In reference to the D44 waaaay back on page 6, care to share your source for those? I need a new set of drums for the D44 going under mine (soon, hopefully) Thanks, Jeff
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CAD fix (Cheap Posi-Loc System)
mjeff87 replied to Landoloops's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
linky no workie....... :cry: Jeff edit: woo-hoo! I broke the 1000 post barrier, and didn't even notice it... -
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