mjeff87

FWIW, on my non-AC 2.5 there seems to be a pigtail connector for the AC coming out of the wire loom in about the spot where you think it would be. It's an orange wire with a factory bullet-type connector end. I tried to trace it to see if it came out around the relay center area, but lost the end of it somewhere in the middle of that rat's nest of wires. I'm piecing together the parts to add a factory Sanden compressor to mine for OBA, and was looking for existing wiring possibly there to use. Jeff

A little late, but you could have put a breaker bar on the HB nut and then wedged it against the framerail or ground and bumped the starter to break it loose. For the broken bolt, maybe try slipping a hose clamp behind/around one of the spokes of the balancer (or maybe even an exhaust clamp) and clamping that third arm of the puller with it. Install the other two bolts to the same depth as the rear part of the clamp (keep the puller face as parallel as you can to the balancer) and remove. Or since you aren't reusing it, try a long self-tapping 5/16" bolt with a washer on it. It's a press fit, but it really doesn't take that much force to pull it off the crank snout (make sure you pull the washer off the HB bolt so you aren't pushing on it instead of the crank with the puller) Jeff

Did you find the exact build date? If so, how? Mine's an 87 also, and I wanted to see what it's birthday was too...

Welcome to the club :cheers: Alabama, eh? Watch out for a guy by the name of hornbrod :D (just kidding.....) Jeff

Sorry, I finished it all off last night. I'll pick some more up today after work :D Welcome to the Club! Jeff (Jeff in VA over on NAXJA)

You can do that as well (and get new shafts with the 297X joints in them), but you have to pull the carrier and install an inner seal inside the housing, and make up a cover plate for the CAD housing. I've had mine shimmed over with washers for 3+ years now without a problem. Jeff

I'd check the cap/rotor condition, as mentioned, also.

You're on the right track with the caliper. Have someone apply the brakes while you watch the caliper, and see if it moves at all. I'd bet the piston is seized/binding. Jeff

Try this one....it seems to work a little better for pre-'90 stuff. Yours checks out good on it, according to your sig. Jeff http://jeep.avtograd.ru/VIN/vin_en.asp

yeah...what he said. Wouldn't be pretty I'd imagine. Mine started squirming out the back...I just cut the protruding parts flush with a razor knife and reinstalled it, just to get it moving again. But it's on the priority list to replace (right now, I drive the MJ maybe once a week) Jeff

the wife got me a gift subscription for Christmas, so I really don't have a choice ;) Jeff

They can be a pain. If you're working on it now, drop the rear driveshaft to give yourself some more working room (if you haven't already). If the pump assembly isn't correctly seated (the little cup inside the hole in the inner tank) the ring won't go on. You need to get all three edges of the inner ring under the locking tabs simultaneously, then twist the ring. Once you get all the tabs started, use a non-sparking tool (wooden or brass) to bump the ring around until it's fully engaged. Work from all three vantage points alternately while you tighten or else you might distort the ring, then it'll just be harder to install (ask me how I know that....). A little silcone spray on the O ring helps too, and lessens the chance of distorting it and/or ripping it. HTH, Jeff

How'd you get April already? I just got the March one a couple days ago :roll: (but in reality, it IS only February.....) Jeff

Here's the ad from JP: Image Not Found Jeff

I can't claim 20-25 hp with my new chain/gears, but my butt dyno did register a slight increase in power :D At first, it ran real flat....I mean REAL flat.....but after a day or so of driving and one good haul on the interstate @ 65-70 mph it came back around. The only problem I have is a small oil leak, on the right side of the cover where the oil pan seal meets the cover :mad: I've got to go back in in the near future and replace the HB and install a new radiator, so I'll deal with it at that time. For now, it's just one more thing that drips ;) Jeff

because they figured that putting the clutch master cylinder directly above the fusebox wasn't a good enough idea......

X2 :D Pingpong made this one, which is now on the rear of mine...reuses the stock brackets too. Image Not Found

I just replaced mine on my 2.5 last month: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... ming+chain But it didn't sound like what you're hearing. It was a definate clicka-CLACK-clicka-CLACK-clicka-CLACK......sound. It didn't start making any noise from a cold start, only when the engine began to warm up, then it was constant, and varied with engine speed. I ran it like that for about 30K miles or so, didn't affect driveability but was annoying as all hell (kind of embarassing, too, sitting in traffic :oops: ) It actually turned out that the tensioner (4.0 doesn't use one, only the 2.5) was toasted, and was slapping the cover on each crank revolution. The chain was stretched but not beyond spec (1/2"). But since I had it all ripped apart anyway, I replaced the chain and gears as well. Jeff

and all the dents, scratches, and scrapes too..... ;)

Yeah, I looked at the pics again and it is a 4.0L (I noticed the overflow bottle too). I ran the VIN listed thru a decoder and it's supposed to have a manual tranny...probably a BA10 that died and the PO swapped in an AW4 and new console. Notice the lack of the PRNDL on the cluster? and that would also explain the "reverse lights are operated from a toggle switch on the dash, to pass inspection" comment :roll: I might just drive up there this weekend after all. Might be fun..... Jeff

Must be the "Earl Scheib, we-paint-anything-(and everything)-for-$49.95" paint job that makes it worth so much :dunno: although...if it is what it's said it is (88, 2.5 auto) it should have 4.56's under it. When did 2.5's switch from TBI to MPI? I thought it was around 90 (?)

This poor thing is actually at a local car dealership down here. I almost feel like driving up there and being a pain in someone's azz over it. $4995.....for THAT? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-Jee ... dZViewItem :roll: Jeff

Just for that, you get this...... ;)

Don't know anything on cost, but from the looks of it (the pic in JP) it looks like about a 1" thick adapter plate with a bunch of holes drilled in it, and what appears to be a bearing retainer of sorts. I'm guessing it adapts the AX15 bellhousing to the 2.5 block. I'll scan the pic in and post it (if I can figure out how to do that...short of that I'll take a dig pic of it ;)) Jeff

Might be old news, but I was flipping thru the March issue of JP last night, and saw that AA now has an adapter kit to mate an AX15 to a 2.5L. Went on the website today and searched for info/price but couldn't find anything. I think the ad in JP said to call them for info....... Jeff