mjeff87

FWIW....this is what I had (wrong): Image Not Found but THIS is what I needed (what a contraption of a bracket, huh? :eek: ) Only $5.44 at the local U-pull :D Image Not Found Jeff

Do you have State Farm by any chance? When I converted mine, they still listed it on the policy as a 2WD, because of the VIN #. They tried to enter it as 4WD but the computer system wouldn't let them :nuts: I penned a letter and had them append it to my file stating that I had done the conversion (with all OEM parts), just in case something would ever happen. Trying to argue with them was pointless..... Jeff

yeah...like I said...give it some time, and all systems should revert back to normal. I've no idea why, it's just the nature of the beast :) You are now A #1 certified at alternator replacement! :cheers: Jeff

Just got done putting a new heat pump in (just the outside unit...$1300:(), and am about to replace the water heater. Just when you think you have some "Jeep" money...something always comes along.. Jeff

Check the floorboards like Oiz said. Check the bed above the wheelwells for rot. Crawl under the rear of the bed and inspect the brake lines (they're apt to rot out in the back). If it's a manual tranny, look inside above the fusebox at the back end of the clutch master cylinder and see if it is leaking (and dripping brake fluid down onto the fusebox), and if it has an internal slave cylinder, check the bottom of the bellhousing to see if it's wet with fluid (means the slave is leaking, and you have to pull the tranny to repair). Pop the airbox lid and inspect the air filter...if it's soaked with oil, the CCV system needs a good cleaning. Check the exhaust manifold for cracks/leaks (especially where the individual runners meet at the collector). None of these is a deal breaker per se, but if you see problems, you might be able to knock some $$$ off the purchase price (then post up on here what's wrong and find out how to fix it :;) HTH, Jeff

Congrats :cheers: I haven't had a car note since 1999, and I love it. (of course, both of my vehicles are piles, and have 170K+ miles on them :D ) Jeff

I am, but my MJ didn't come with AC originally. I have the compressor, compressor bracket, and extra idler pulley, but I found out the hard way that there are 2 different types of alternator brackets for the 2.5....one with AC and one without. I haven't been able to find an '87-'90 2.5 with AC down here in the junkyard to pull parts from, so I'm gonna see what they cost from the dealership (gaaaah!) There's actually a main bracket, and two smaller brackets in the rear also, that I need. (what's worse is that it has to be '87-'90....the 91+ is a different alternator (externally regulated via the ECU) and mounts in a different location). Like looking for a needle in a haystack....

I do believe that Wellsville is closing, or already closed. Maybe Nate will chime in on that..

Then the 5A fuse is probably ok (check it anyway). The engineering gurus at AMC designed that dual circuit like that on purpose....the dash lights go out if the brake lights go out, to let the driver know there's no brake light illumination in the rear. Kinda of a "safety feature" of sorts... And I feel your pain on the garage. I don't have one either. Those coin-operated wishy-washy car washes work in a pinch, tho :D (especially when it's raining 'cause there's usually noone in the bays) Jeff

Additionally, there's a small 5A fuse in the upper right corner of the fuseblock (think it's labeled "INST"). Check to see if it's blown. If it's ok, wiggle it around a bit (pull it out slightly also) to make sure it's making good contact. I fought with my dash light for about a month one time until I discovered that one out :D Jeff

Need parts illustrations/diagrams/part #'s for your Jeep? Go here.... http://www.xjjeeps.com/tech_reference.a ... ion=2&ID=0 FYI...the 1988-1990 manual is mislabeled. It is actually 1987-1990. Lots of info on lots of models (J series, XJ/MJ/ZJ/YJ/CJ/TJ......) I finally found out the part number for the alternator bracket I need to install OBA on my MJ :D thanks to that site! Jeff

If y'all don't make it too far away from PA, I might could maybe make it. Jeff

I have new (to me) leafpacks to go under the MJ, but want to replace the stock bushings. Any recommendations? TIA, Jeff

I'm heading to the 'yard tomorrow...I can look for one for ya if you want. Last time I got one (was a couple years ago), it was around $10. Does it have to be from a 5 spd? You can't swing a dead cat without hitting a billion 4.0/AW4's, but the manuals are sparse (not to say there aren't any, though...) Jeff

You should be getting about 13.8-14.2 V with a meter off of that alternator.

Oiz.....no man who drives a Jeep, anywhere, is allowed to make a statement like that :chillin: Jeff

Here's our newest one: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/prof ... file&u=761 Jeff

Give it a little time, and see if they come back. When my alt went, and fried my battery, all sorts of weird things were going on in the dash (and the wipers, and the radio, and the heater.....). I did a roadside repair on the interstate and got it fired up but the bizzare things were still happening, especially the wipers. I had 40+ miles to drive it home (in a monsoon of a rainstorm :cry: ), and after about 20 minutes into the trip, suddenly everything sprang back to normal :nuts: How long have you run it since the new installs? Jeff

:roll: Oops...yeah. Forgot about the crosspin :oops: Jeff

Not too difficult. Pull the diff cover and drain the fluid, push in the axleshaft you are replacing from the hub side (it should move in about 1/4"), which will expose the C clip (you might have to spin the shaft around a bit to access the back side of the clip). Pull the clip out with a pair of needlenose pliers, and pull the axleshaft out of the housing. While you have the shaft out, do not spin the carrier, or else the spider gears will fall out and you'll have to put them back in. Slide the new shaft in carefully, so you don't rip the seal in the tube, until it seats fully. Reinstall C clip, replace cover and refill with new lube. HTH, Jeff

Most likely an AX5 and 207....but it could be a T5 and NP228/229. If the TC has a fixed rear output, it's a 228/229. Jeff

Funny you should mention the "damaged bolthead extractors".....I now own a set ;) Went to do a simple oil change on the other car Saturday, and disaster struck. Fill plug stripped (my own stoopid fault, I've been using a 12 pt box end wrench on it for the last year or so). After screwing around for 2 hours with everything from vise grips to pipe wrenches, to files..and about 10 beers..I took a trip to the Sears. They had them on sale for $14.99 :D Once I had them in hand, the plug came out in about 3.4 seconds. They are the kind of thing that you don't buy when you don't need them, but are the ONLY thing that works when you do. Add them to the list of random tools in my box that'll probably get used once, maybe twice :D Jeff edit: pics the pan plug (destroyed) :eek: Image Not Found the extractors Image Not Found

I'm going from (fuzzy) memory, but now that I think about it more, they should be on the back side, like you have them :oops: The wire does go around the clip on the rear shoe, then down and hooks onto the clip. There is a tiny, wavy washer that fits onto the adjuster (where the two pieces slide together) that's easy to loose...do you have those on both of them? Not sure what they're called, but I assume they are there to prevent the adjuster from moving without being bumped by the adjusting clip. :dunno: (they're like a spring-washer)

X2 Make sure they are turning in the correct direction. The knurled-wheel end of the adjuster should be on the "front" side, and as the adjuster plate pushes on the wheel, it screws the adjuster clockwise to expand it. Jeff

It's good to hear that I'm not the only redneck on here with a piece of 2X4 inside the passenger door :D I'll get around to replacing the regulator some day, but for now, the wood works...should be in a FAQ sticky ;) Jeff