mjeff87

I agree. I put me one of them fancy steerin' wheel cover/wrap thingies on mine about 5 years ago to thicken it up some....it's held up surprisingly well.... I've been scouting the 'yards in search of a good condition newer style black 3 spoke wheel, but haven't found one yet that's been worth pulling. I like the looks of them better than the 2 spoke. Maybe I'll get lucky this weekend <> Image Not Found

Yeah, the D30 carrier break is 3.55/3.73, so you can install 4.10's on a 3.73 carrier. But what are you looking for, just gears or a whole axle? For the hassle of installing a new gearset you could just install a complete axle already geared. 2.5/AX5 combos are most common with 4.10's but don't assume every 2.5 has 4.10's.....2.5 autos with the 904 generally have 3.73's, and if you're lucky enough to find a 2.5/AW4 combo there should be 4.56's under it, stock :D Jeff

I was going to comment on the pinstriping..you can tell it's freehand by the design on the tailgate and the B pillars. You might want to leave that intact if it doesn't bother you. Some talent was involved there, and I'm sure it took some time to do...definately a conversation piece if nothing else ;) Jeff

Well, you could reuse your 2WD tranny, but you have to tear it completely apart and add the 4WD extension housing in place of the 2WD rear housing it has on it now. And, at least for the AX (4, 5, 15) you have to swap out the rear output shaft also....the 4WD shaft is shorter and has the correct spline count to engage the TC input. It's a whole lot simpler to just swap entire units out. Jeff

:cheers: cool! (but I have the vynil bench-seat-from-hell :oops: ) Jeff

Both the front skid and the transfercase skid on mine came from the junkyard. Then again, so did about 75% of the rest of my MJ, too..... :D I just put the TC skid on last weekend. Here's a rundown of it, if you're interested: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3432 Jeff

Yay! another all-black (AMC) interior. That makes 3 of us that I know of here that have it :D I love mine, but don't have A/C, and the PO installed a sunroof that doesn't have an inside covering to pull over it. It's like driving a pizza oven around in the summertime...... Jeff

That's why I have no hesitation to use a factory TC skid....if somebody like you can pretzel it like you did, and it still keeps your junk safe...I'm sold on it :D BTW....where da 'ell you getting 34" at? driveshaft?? :dunno: Jeff

Wasn’t exactly sure just what measurement you needed, so I took a couple of them, with pics. LMK if what you needed isn’t what I got, and I’ll go remeasure for ya ;) Jeff Back of TC to the bottom of the bend in the Xmember, 5 ½”: Image Not Found Same shot, but from the front of the TC @ the fill plug, 8”: Image Not Found Bottom of TC to the bottom of the trans Xmember, 2": Image Not Found Same shot, but to the bottom of the TC skidplate where it bends, 3”: Image Not Found Bottom of tranny Xmember to the top of the TC skid @ bend, 2 ½”: Image Not Found General shot from behind the tranny/TC: Image Not Found Another one: Image Not Found

Fastenal has nutserts, alot cheaper than the dealership, JIC anyone needs a source for them (and don't live next to my neighbor :D ) http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... ku=0125686 Jeff

Will do, tomorrow (when it's light out LOL) Jeff

Inspiration comes from many sources....I just so happen to be currently broke :D and I needed something to do this weekend that didn't cost anything. It was either the skidplate or install the bucket seats I've had stashed under the house for the last 6 months, and the skid won out. Make sure you post up some pics of what you're doin' CW, your work is top notch stuff! Jeff

You mean when I converted it to 4WD? Yep....I installed a 4WD version of the AX5. Jeff

Purolater filters and Castrol GTX 10-40W for me (10-30W in the Escort) @ 3000K miles, give or take, for me.

Cool deal, that's why I'm pimping the Escort. Only downside is that when you run the MJ, you'll realize just how bad the mileage really is now... :cheers: Jeff

There are alternatives to using the high-dollar tool to install the nutsert....I was just lucky enough to have a neighbor that has about every gadget known to man :D

YMMV, but that's the key right there. Most people (especially those who drive automatics) seldom use them. Ya hafta exercise them or else they seize up. I replaced all three cables on mine with AA parts about 3 years ago and they're still in great shape, but I use my e-brake every day (it helps to have a sloping driveway, too :D) Jeff

Advance Auto and the like sell them, decently priced too. The forward, in-cab cable is like $15, and the rears are around $7-8 each. The forward cable is differently sized, depending on your wheelbase. The rears are standard size. Jeff

Add copious amounts of anti-seize to the skidplate bolts, and hang the skid. Congratulations, you now have a factory trasfercase skidplate under your rig :cheers: : Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Once it’s in place, move onto the skidplate. The hole for the frame end of the skid is already in the framerail…it’s ½” (pay no attention to the snapped off crossmember stud....I've got one broken one on each side I need to drill out and retap, maybe today :oops: ): Image Not Found Install a nutsert (1/2” OD) into the hole, using the tool: Image Not Found This is how the nutsert goes on the tool: Image Not Found I had to slightly enlarge the hole in the frame to insert the nutsert. Don’t make it too big….just large enough to be able to pound the nutsert into it: Image Not Found Thread the tip of the tool into the nutsert and squeeze the tool to compress it, just like using a rivet gun. This sounds easier than it really is….I couldn’t get the oooompff needed, so I used some mechanical advantage :brows: : Image Not Found Once the nutsert collapses, remove the tool. Now you can thread a bolt into it: Image Not Found

Finally got around to adding the TC skidplate under the MJ yesterday. Here's a basic rundown of how to do it for anyone that's interested. The whole install took about an hour working by myself, and about three beers :D New crossmember and skidplate ($12 from the pick-n-pull, cleaned up and painted): (upside down): Image Not Found (as installed): Image Not Found Support the driveline and remove old crossmember. Pay attention to how it was oriented so you can install the new one the same way: Image Not Found Old vs. new, they are identical: Image Not Found Except the new one has well nuts already installed in it to attach the front end of the skidplate: Image Not Found Install the new crossmember the same as the old (they are NOT symmetrical), tighten it up, and remove the jack: Image Not Found

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3398 Scroll down to see pics.. Jeff

Pete, even if we had an (:illegalflipoffsmiley:) <- thingy, there wouldn't be a cause to use it here.... Good bunch of guys (and gals) y'all are here Heck, I'm impressed by some of the young (dare I say "punk"??) tuner-car enthusiasts out there, and the drifters too, even. It's not my cup of tea personally, but you have to admire and appreciate the skills and abilities of them that do that sorta thing. I know I couldn't.... Now, back to some more Bud Lights.... :chillin: Jeff

yup...like I said, oil is cheap. Engines aren't. :cheers:

Here's some pics.....hope they help y'all. The conectors for mine were hidden waaaay up inside the dash, tucked out of the way. They are a 2 prong female connector with a "courtesy light" label wrapped around them. Pine air freshener is an aftermarket add-on :D Driver side Image Not Found Passenger side Image Not Found Bracket removed Image Not Found Ashtray light :chillin: Image Not Found