mjeff87

How close (or far) are you guys from Richmond? I know for a fact that Raleigh/Durham is exactly 2 hours from here. There are two U-pull 'yards here, both owned by the same company. If any of you guys want to come up some weekend, I'd be glad to be a tour guide for ya. Jeff

Slip-joint pliers. The head has the perfect offset to push the bottom of the pin up. Once it pops out of the hinge, rock it side to side while pulling up and it'll come right out. Jeff

not much really....just a '95 or newer XJ dual diapragm booster with master and prop valve, brake pedal assembly, and the brake light switch. Pull the booster/MC/prop valve as a whole assembly, just disconnect the booster rod from the pedal, cut the lower (output) brake lines off the prop valve, and remove the four nuts that hold the booster to the firewall. Then pull it all out as a unit. I'm heading back up Saturday to grab the pedal assembly and swap it in. I'll take some more pics from under the dash when I do. I metered the wires on the brake switch last night....it's the center set of wires that you need to splice into your existing brake light wiring. Pink and white wires..I think.

I snagged a bunch of them a few months ago from the junkyard for some guys on here that needed them. If you can't get any, give me your mailing address and I'll send you a couple..... Jeff

Can't remember, is the 89 TBI or MPI? If it's TBI the regulator is on top of the throttle body, but the test port is sealed. You have to drill it out and attach a specific fitting to be able to test fuel pressure. Jerry's (tjbliley) MJ has this already done. But your problem sounds like it's TPS related. I'd start by checking it, and adjust if necessary. Jeff

Just remember it like this.... 15 is too young, 36 is too old, 24 is just right ;) Jeff

That sucks Pat. Wife and I haven't bought domestic since the 90's...... good luck! Jeff

I can't figure out what size tank my MJ has.......at the most, with the needle almost laying on E, I can get 11.5 gal in it. But I don't know if the gauge sender is accurate, and I don't want to run the pump dry trying to figure it out. I just fill it around every 175 miles or so (netting roughly 16 mpg :oops: ) Jeff

those YJ plates fit D44 U-bolts (2 3/4")? Jeff

looks like I'm heading back up to the 'yard Saturday to pull the pedal assembly, then. Do either of you know which two color wires you need to splice (there's about 6 of them.....I was gonna use a meter to figure out) mfpdm- after having done this, I would recommend you leave the prop valve where it is and extend the output lines. Took me about three trips to the parts store to get the right fittings needed the way I did it. You also don't need the wiring for the switch, your MJ one is the same and will fit fine. I was just a bit lazy and cut the wires ;) Jeff

How did you locate the switch? On my 87, there's no bracket to mount it to. Did you fab something up? got any pics? Thanks! Jeff

That, I think, is going to be the permanent solution....I went back and got the push button switch out of the XJ. Problem is, there's no bracket to attach it under the dash. I'll either have to fab one up or swap the entire clutch/brake pedal assembly out of a newer XJ. That switch-on-the-pedal thingy has officially become first on the list of the stupidest things ever engineered on a Jeep...... :nuts: Jeff

I swapped in a dual diaphragm booster out of a 96 XJ over the weekend, and they really do make the difference that people say they do. Altogether I spent about $50, some of which was on fittings to connect the master to the prop valve. If I’d do it again, I would have let the prop valve installed the way it came out of the XJ, which is set a lot higher than the MJ, and extended the lines from the bottom versus extending the lines on top…..because all the output lines underneath are 3/16”, and the input lines are 5/16” and ¼” which meant I had to conjure up a bunch of different adapters. Oh well, it’s in and not leaking, which is all I care about :D Here is the booster/MC/prop valve assembly I pulled out of the XJ ($32 at the U-pull): Image Not Found Here are the two assemblies side by side after I pulled the MJ stuff out: Image Not Found The swap is pretty straightforward, except the end of the booster rod that connects to the pedal. For the brakelight switch to work, you have to drill out the hole in the XJ rod to 5/8” and transfer the switch and all the bushings onto it. You also have to flatten out the end of the rod eye to match the older version rod…..it’s a very precise width that I proceeded to screw up with an angle grinder, and now have the switch shimmed temporarily until I figure out a more permanent solution :thwak: Here’s the stock, old style rod: Image Not Found And here’s how I modified the new rod: Image Not Found Put it all back together, using the stock MJ hard lines from the MC to the prop valve (with fittings). There’s juuust enough room for everything to fit, EXCEPT the washer fluid resivoir. I’m relocating that to the firewall above the HVAC fan, but haven’t done that yet: Image Not Found Shot from the side: Image Not Found

flares may be going :brows: I'm looking for some 33X10.5's but haven't been real lucky....yet

x3 on the Champions (truck plugs if they have them). I put a set of those Bosch +4 Platinums in my wife's (now mine) car a couple months ago, and just yanked them out last weekend. Crappy idle, hard starting, and mileage dropped off. Put a set of OEM copper plugs in and it purrs now. Jeff

Gotta love Craiglist. Picked these up off a Toyota guy Wednesday evening.....15X8" rockcrawlers, 3.75 BS, only 3 weeks old. He bought them with 33" BFG AT's mounted on them and only wanted the rubber, so he sold the wheels for $100. Now I just need 33's to put on them 8) Jeff Image Not Found

I shouldn't mention this, but I'm gonna.... ;) I replaced the pinion seal on my D35 a couple years ago, and just spun the nut back on with an impact until there was no play in the pinion, and it's been o.k. since. In fact, that axle is currently riding under Jerry's MJ at the moment. But by all means, listen to the group and torque it properly. I'm guessing I just got lucky. Jeff

Nate/DC/anyone, Follow my logic on this, then. For the standard 2 UJ shaft, the driveshaft angles will change consistently at either end when you SOA, so long as the vehicle stays level front to rear, yes? That's the debate that Pat, myself and another guy had when we burned my new perches on top of the tubes in prep for going SOA, and that's why I decided to set the new perches parallel to the factory perches underneath (to keep the same factory pinion angle, which we measured at 7 degrees). Irregardless of the amount of lift, SOA or SUA, both the TC output and the axle pinion are fixed, and will not change, unless you alter the wheelbase. Yes? Jeff

When I converted mine it took me the better part of 9 months, but I did alot of extra stuff to it along the way as well...and it was stored 300 miles away from me :( I drove up to PA on weekends to work on it, in a barn on my family's farm, with a single extension cord ran from the closest outlet 200 ft away :oops: I was also working solo for the most part, and the closest part store was 30 miles away. I've helped do two other conversions since then, both done over a weekend. Heh. Jeff

the stock pinion angle on the D44 I just put in is 7 degrees, if that helps any.... Jeff

you'll need a longer speedo cable. Also, while you have the tranny out, you might want to think about replacing the clutch and pilot bearing, or at least the internal slave (if yours is internal). Also, the RMS on 2.5's cannot be changed without taking off the tranny. You'll have to remove the flywheel to get to it, but it's a $5 seal that you'll kick yourself over if you don't replace it and it goes south later on down the road. There's also a freezeplug at the back of the engine you might want to inspect and replace if it even looks suspect. Jeff

That sounds plausible. Maybe someone on here is running that combo and can measure for ya.... *side note* had my first experience with the new locker in the rain this morning on the way to work......that was interesting ;)

yup You can usually trust NAPA for them if you don't want to interweb them. I had the driveline shop press in two new ones Monday when they cut my driveshaft down (yeah, I'm getting lazy in my old age). $12 ea for greasables, but they wanted to upsell me to the Spicer sealed ones, which were $4 more. I didn't take the bait. Jeff

It's a fairly simple system, injector pulse length is controlled by a handful of sensors: O2, coolant temp, MAP, MAT, and TPS feed info to the ECU, which in turn controls the injector. Make sure the vac line to the MAP (sensor bolted to the firewall with a little cover over it) is intact, replace the O2 sensor, and don't get the TPS wet and you'll be good. Jeff

also, just remembered, if his 86 has a neutral safety switch, you'll have to bypass it. On my buddy's YJ, all we had to do was ground the center wire (3 wire connector). You may not have the same backup light switch wiring either. You'll have to get creative with that to make them work. The b/u switch on the AX5 is on the passenger side below the shift tower. It's a 2 wire switch if I remember. Have fun! Jeff