mjeff87

crossmember will work but you'll need the manual tranny mount. I helped a buddy do the same swap on his YJ, and the pedal assembly is a complete unit that bolts into the lower dash....I don't think it would work on an MJ. Not sure about the driveshafts, either. My 87 is the same setup but it's a shortbed, and the stock driveshaft (rear) is 47" center to center of the JU caps. Jeff

I have a YJ yoke (somewhere) I thought about putting on, but that yoke is riding at the same distance it used to before I got it (judging by the wear mark on it). I'm only running this setup on the road now to break the new gears in.

Had one of my spare shafts cut down 1 ¼” today: Image Not Found Image Not Found Got the slip back I needed: Image Not Found

Smooth as a smacked baby's @$$, I'm quite surpised actually. For search purposes, a SWB MJ with a 2.5/AX5 and D44 requires a 46" driveshaft.... When Pat welded on the SOA perches, we set them to the same angle. Hopefully it'll be just as smooth when the springs are on top. If not, I can add shims.

Finally hung the D44 under the MJ today. Put it in SUA for now, to run it around a few hunderdt miles to break the gears and bearings in (then I'll SOA it). Good news is it went in well, and runs nice and smooth. Powertrax is virtually invisible, so long as I don't hit the gas around a sharp turn :D Bad news is that the D44 pinion is exactly 1" longer than the D35 pinion......I've only got about 3/8" travel in the slip yoke. Once I SOA it, the driveshaft (stock, 47") will be perfect, but for now it's not so good. I've got a spare shaft (thanks Nate!) I'm gonna take up to a shop tomorrow and have cut down. Jeff D44 under, finally Image Not Found not so good.... :oops: Image Not Found

you can swap that tranny (AX4) with virtually the same unit that has an overdrive gear (AX5). That will bring down the highway rpm's some... Jeff

another set of V8 GC coils, another Selectrac vaccuum switch, and something I can't say right now. Somebody else has first dibs on it. There was a bunch of other stuff I could have grabbed, but I wasn't equipped, and had no way of getting it all back down to VA in my wife's new car :D Jeff

the cables from the splitter under the bed are the same length regardless of bed size, and year, throughout all production models. The only cable that has a different length is the forward one, from the pedal inside the cab to the splitter.....different sizes for SB vs. LB $120 PER CABLE (or even both, for that matter)????? Yikes! What's yer mailing address....we can get you a set over here and ship 'em over to ya ;) Jeff

Just got back into town about a couple hours ago.....wife and I were in Philly since Saturday. Went up to Harry's U-pull in Hazelton yesterday with her uncle....found some treasures :brows: Game plan is to swap the '44 under the MJ this weekend, still SUA, and run it around here for a couple hundred miles to break the gearset in. Then I'll come on down Pat, and SOA it, probably in about 3 weeks or so. Gonna grub up and hit the sack now. :chillin: Jeff

The two pics on the left are the idle speed control for the power steering pump. It bumps the idle up a tiny bit when the wheel is turned. The red wire coming out of the loom behind the alternator is the positive lead for the A/C compressor for A/C equipped models. Not sure what the wire is under the cover there....mine has one as well. And Pete is spot on with the headlight switch. Replace it and I bet you get your backlighting back. Jeff

I've got those same wheels on 31's now on the MJ. I wondered how they would look blacked out..... Thanks for giving me another project to add to the to-do list :yes: Jeff

Yes, the fuseblock under the dash. Fuse #8, 7.5A (I've got a 5A in mine for some reason :nuts: ). Problem with mine was the clips that hold the fuse blades in were/are partially corroded, thanks to a leaking clutch M/C in the past that coated my fusebox with brake fluid. Wiggle it around a bit and see if it's not making full contact. I doubt all the bulbs blew, because there are about 8 or 10 of them that backlight the cluster. They are fed power by an orange wire with black tracer on the left side multi-pin connector on the back of the cluster. That power wire comes out of the headlight switch. For the two lines off your valve cover....the big one in the front goes to the side of the airbox, to *theoretically* let clean air in the top side of the engine. The small line on the rear of the cover goes to a small vaccuum port on the base of the TB, left-hand side if you're looking at it from the front. It's supposed to pull crankcase vapors back out of the top end back into the manifold to be reburned. Jeff Image Not Found

Not trying to sound stupid, but there are factory holes in the rear framerails right there. Why they are there I don't know, but they are. Is that what you are talking about?

We need to know what engine you're working on...2.8 V6, 2.5 or 4.0 before we can diagnose properly. For the dash lights, start by checking the 5A instrument light fuse in the fuseblock. If it's good, wiggle it around a bit...it may have intermittent contact. I had the same problem and wasted days of troubleshooting it until one evening, when it was dark out, I wiggled it and saw tiny flashes behind the fuseblock. Never would have seen it if it weren't dark out :D Jeff

Just make sure Fed Ex's insurance that you purchase will cover it, since you packed it yourself. I know the bastids at UPS won't cover anything unless they package it (and charge you up the wazoo for it......) I hate UPS..... Jeff

and I've got ZJ steering (tie rod) on my MJ...bolts in directly. Only difference is the ZJ rod has an adjusting sleeve at the TRE end, and the XJ/MJ doesn't. I just set the length to match the old rod and bolted it in. Jeff

You still have an old fashioned timing light stashed somewhere? (I did, but gave it to my neighbor :D ) Hook it up and see if you are getting spark, and troubleshoot from there. If'n ya got spark, pull a plug and see what they look like. My neighbor wheeled his brandy-spankin new 7 HP Honda mower over to me last night because it "just died" on him. He was giving it to me and going to get a new one. Five minutes later and a freshly filed spark plug, and I gave him his mower back :roll: CPS's differ from auto to manual, although I don't know exactly what the difference is.....maybe you picked up the wrong one and the tip is too far from the trigger wheel, or flywheel (?) Jeff

Did a little internet research and found out the patent for the design was issued in 1931 to J.H. Williams Co., who manufactured the "Williams No. 1999 eight-way socket wrench". They supplied Craftsman, who released the revised version you see in 1954. It was available until 1968. Her grandfather wasn't a very mechanical guy, and this tool is in really good shape. Even being 12 pt, none of the points on any of the sizes is worn down at all. Don't think I'll use it much.....just hang onto it in his memory, along with his pocketknife. Jeff

that's 512tr's table He is a CC member Jeff

My wife and I spent Saturday up in PA going thru her grandparent’s estate, and among other things, I stumbled across this Craftsman wrench. Not sure how old it is, but I’ve never seen one before (and I’m 37 :D)….it’s eight 12 pt. wrenches in one (all SAE, from 7/16” to 7/8”). Thought some of y’all might find it interesting. Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found

You have to reset the switch inside the prop valve. Per the FSM, you have to apply 500 psi to the brake system to do that (inside the cab, press the pedal down hard). Way back when one of my rear lines first blew I had the same problem after I repaired it....I tried the reset method mentioned and it didn't work. I ended up repacing the prop valve (even though the brakes were working fine). Jeff

towards the back, starting around pg 70 (or so), the last 30 pages are duplicated. Half the article on transmissions is missing, as well as half the "Vern" column. But all of the vendor ads are there, twice. Maybe they only sent those copies to Virginia :roll: Jeff

you're not the only one that got one Pat...... methinks the boys at the presses screwed the pooch on this month's edition..... Jeff

I got a set that I gave to my neighbor to take into his shop at work and cut them on an industrial band saw. Someone else in the shop grabbed them and did the work, and they cut the bushing flush with the outside edge of the arms, and on one of them actually slipped and cut into the arm itself about 1/16" :headpop: Worst part is he didn't cut the inner bushing that the bolt rides in.....said he wasn't sure how short I wanted it to be :headpop: :headpop: after I TOLD my neighbor to only take off .48" (or whatever the metric equivalent is, I forget now). Not sure if the one he hacked is useable or not..... :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: Jeff (no, I'm not bitter or anything)

Generally, when one starts messing with the rear brake system (usually to replace a blown line....) one thing leads to another. If you can't get the bleeders open, you end up relpacing the wheel cylinders. Since you have everything apart to do that anyhow, you might as well put new shoes and hardware on. Then, you might think about replacing the e-brake cables...... It's just best to r&r the whole sheebang anyhow ;) Jeff