mjeff87

2.5's didn't go to MPFI until the early 90's (91, I think to be exact, but don't quote me on that ;) ). I know the airbox was slightly different between 86 and 87, a bit skinnier, but everything else should be the same. I've not run any fancy aftermarket ignition parts on mine, but do spend the extra $$ on the cap and rotor to get brass terminals. Stock plug wires and champion plugs....seems to run as good as it can on all that :D Jeff

where's this jag-off (official 'burg term there ;) ) located at? Next time I'm home, I'll be sure to swing by and say hi to him........ :brows: Jeff

yup, the studs are pressed into the hub flange, and the rotor slips over them. Jeff

You have everything you need except new cotter pins for the spindle nut….don’t reuse the old ones. Pull the old pin, remove the locking collar, nut and washer and pull the old rotor off. Grease the new bearings up, insert the inner bearing on the back of the rotor then press the new seal in. Clean the spindle off (it’s bolted to the knuckle, it won’t go anywhere), apply a thin coat of w-b grease, slide the new rotor over it and install the outer bearing, washer, and nut hand tight. Put the wheel back on with a couple of lugnuts, then spin it anticlockwise while you snug up the spindle nut, which will preload the bearings. Once it’s snug and there’s no play in the wheel, take the wheel back off, add the locking collar and new cotter pin, and reassemble the rotors with new pads. I wouldn’t torque the spindle nut to any specific torque value, but 15 lb/ft sounds about close. It’s more of a feel type thing….you want it tight enough to eliminate any play between the bearings and the races, but not so tight that you burn up the bearings. Jeff

For the record.......that don't work. Tried that last week when my pump died, and only got a faceful of mud/rust for my troubles :oops: :D Jeff (although it did releive some of the stress of admitting to myself that the pump actually was dead)

the inspection cover (thin plate) should slide out. The larger plate is the flywheel, which is bolted to the end of the crankshaft by those 6 bolts. You shouldn't have to take it off to get the engine mounted on the stand, but if you do want to, an impact gun would be your best bet.

sounds like either the input shaft tip is hung up inside the pilot bushing, or the splines are hung up on the clutch disc..if the combo is still on the hoist, lower it until the engine is on the ground, have someone hold it or strap it off so it doesn't move, grab the tranny by the tailcone and rock/shake it while pulling backwards (carefully) until whatever is binding up releases.

ayup...... :cheers: Jeff

replied in your build thread, but just saw this post, and I'll post it here as well..... DO NOT drill that out. There is a small post pressed into the bearing retainer that has a small groove in the end of it, that the throwout/slave slips over. It is capped with a small circular clip (called a Tinnerman clip) that slides over the top of the post, and the inner tangs of it pop inside the groove. Grab a pair of needlenose and pop that clip off, and the old assembly will come off of the post. New clutch kits come with a replacement clip ;) Jeff

just pop that little circular clip off that post that it's attached to. New clutch kits come with a replacement clip.... Jeff

I'll definately take the tranny off yer hands, I think I have the TC covered locally. If that doesn't pan out though, I'll need it too ;) Jeff

stock routing, chopped off past the muffler outlet, with a turndown tip. I'll be replacing the stock muffler with a cherrybomb here shortly... Jeff Image Not Found

Don't have a writeup, but it's not that involved. -remove the shifter from inside the cab (pull the center console/boot, remove the dust cover on the tranny hump, push down the locking ring in the center of the shift tower and rotate 90 degrees anti-clockwise and it will pop up, then pull the shifter out) -remove front and rear driveshafts -disconnect CPS connector (you can leave the CPS attached to the tranny) -disconnect the wiring harness connector on the passenger side of tranny -disconnect the clutch line -support tranny with jack and remove the four mounting nuts in center of xmemeber -remove xmember nuts (4 per side, use caution on the studs in the framerails...they like to snap off) -pull xmember off (index it so you put it back in the same orientation...it only fits one way) -disco speedo cable, and pop the TC linkage rod off, remove transer case -carefully lower the tranny and remove jack (you may need to lower the tranny with the TC attached to access the upper TC mounting nuts...if you do cap off the tailcone of the TC or stick a spare slip yoke in it to prevent fluid from leaking out....it makes a real mess) -remove bellhousing bolts/nuts, and the two inspection cover nuts/bolts. Top two bell bolts maybe be an external torx head, size E12....but I've noticed 2.5's used regular hex head bolts. You can get a wrench on them before you start anything from above, or else use a bunch of extensions and get them from underneath with the tranny hanging (easier from the top, though) -carefully wiggle tranny back until the input shaft clears the clutch housing, and remove tranny you don't have to remove the starter on a 2.5, because it attaches to the block, not the tranny. Installation is reverse of removal procedure :D Jeff

well, I guess it's all good. I was planning to swap pumps when the 4.0 went in anyway.....it just sucked yesterday in a parking lot, laying on a tarp in a rainstorm. But, it's one more thing crossed off the list. I prefer my junk to break down on MY schedule, not it's own :razz:

is yours TBI or MPI (since you mention throttle body swap)? I'm turning (well, trying to anyway) 33X12.5" now on 4.56's, and it's just not cutting it on the road. It crawls well enough, but on highway I'm all but floored and inbetween 4th and 5th with the slightest elevation....and mileage is in the 10-12 category :oops: and I'm nowhere near the 70 mph range, more like 60-65 Jeff

It lives..... ;) the ONLY other time it ever died was the alternator, a couple years ago about 50 miles from home.....did the roadside repair in a reststop on I85 I guess I can't really complain tho, almost 190K on the original fuel pump. I just don't like my junk breaking down :oops: Now the @$^*&! TJ is throwing a CEL..........when it rains, it pours, I suppose. Jeff

yesterday, completely without warning fuel pump finally went :cry: had to crawl it with the starter to get it in a safe place (thank God for manual trannies and a yellow top) picked up the only 2.5 pump in stock last night at an Advance Auto about 25 miles away and am heading to do a parking-lot replacement this afternoon, yay me Jeff

Hey Nate....good to see ya back among the living. You linking your MJ rearend, or just going bedless? Jeff

4.0 pumps have a fuel pump outlet check valve which holds fuel pressure when not running, but the 2.5 pump does not. I'd assume the 2.5 pump would deliver enough pressure to run, but restarts might be a problem. Jeff

the motor mounts are the same, but the frame horns they attach to are different. You'll need a set of 4.0 XJ frame horns (they bolt on, not welded) Jeff

yup, that's what I did..... Jeff Image Not Found

X2.....I scored a used set of JKS quicker disconnects (newer version) for $50 ;) and love them. Jeff

Thanks all......I'm not in the 40 club, yet. Close though (38 ). I celebrated yesterday by leaving work early and putting a new steering stabilizer on the MJ 8) Jeff

Pat, you can have my IAC, but it'll be attached to the engine.....in about a month :D Jeff

If you do nothing else, get some steel wool and stuff it inside the lower heater vent openings (on the tranny hump), and close all your dash vents. That will keep them out of the HVAC plumbing....trust me, I speak from experience. You do not want them in there. Five years later, and I'm still picking pieces of bedding out of my vents :roll: Jeff