HOrnbrod

No one has done this? I did find a 96 XJ FSM online, and the tank removal sounds pretty straightforward. But I'm curious about if the system will need a bleed after since the fluid will remain in the master cylinder. What ya think?

Autozone batteries (and Advance Auto) are made by Johnson Controls. I've had good results with the AZ batteries over the years, at least five years for each battery purchased. The one Optima battery I tried died in two.

I'm using the 96 brake booster / master in my MJ. The plastic reservoir is crazing a bit and I'd like to replace it. Replacement reservoirs are available from both Mopar and aftermarket. Has anyone done this? I don't have a 95/96 FSM to check how the damn tank is removed. Can you just pop it off (after removing the brake fluid of course) w/o bleeding the system afterward? I'm thinking yes, since the master cylinder will still be full, but just checking to be sure.

Barely audible on my PC. Probably my lame speakers...... Yes, GS springs should know about that stuff to correct it.

Then don't buy one.

Weak audio Sam, but good video and valid points. Have you called Joe and reported these problems? Or sent him the video? Looks like quality control at General Springs has slipped a bit since I ordered mine years ago.

You can run them at any pressure you want (within range) with an adjustable FPR. You set them up to run at the correct Air/Fuel ratio using an A/F meter. For me it's normally around 40psi (w. vac) 50psi (w/o vac). For the Bosch 0280155703's the nominal pressure is ~43psi.

I've never use ethanol fuel in this engine mate. And yes, anal questions. Anyhow, that's the only reliable way to check supposedly "go fast" upgrades - dyno runs over time using the same dyno machine. Some of the stuff I did was good, some not so good, and the dyno runs gave me a good road map. A not so good mod was new injectors. I threw a set of new Bosch 703 "Neon" 4-holers in, dialed them in the best I could with the fuel rail pressure regulator, A/F meter, and the unreliable butt dyno, and all it did was use more gas. Went back for a dyno run and the engine made more power using the original 53030778 Mopar injectors at 49psi than the 4-holers and got better mileage too.

Try cleaning up the crank CPS connector - might have gotten wet.

Crank sensor connector. Open 'er up and clean it - might help if it got wet.

Including the CPS connector?

Most of your questions don't make any sense mate. Results flawed because dyno runs were taken taken on separate days? Intake ports were matched and polished. Simple intake swap from the stock intake to the 99+ intake. No "restrictions" removed. Known Dino for years. We emailed quite a bit during the various upgrades thru the years. I value his advice highly.

Another interesting tidbit: When I bought my Hesco stroker originally I was provided the dyno sheet from the original test stand dyno test run. I noticed on the first dyno run I had after the install the RW HP/Torque measurements were approximately 30% less, indicating drivetrain loss. My rig has an AW4, and that was normal; good reliable tranny but one of the least efficient auto trannys out there. There are ways to lower that loss, but I haven't gotten around to that yet - probably never will. In comparison, the loss for the standard AX15 manual tranny is around 15%, according to the Hesco guys.

The engine is a 4.6L Hesco stroker, and the dyno runs were taken on separate days, one with the stock intake, the other with the 01 intake. One dyno run is superimposed on the other, the same dyno was used for both runs as it should be. The dyno measures rear wheel HP and torque, and the manifold only gave good increases in both. A stock engine of course wouldn't have increases like that, and I'm not going speculate what the gains would be. But there would be gains and better drivability. I had this done because mainly because I got sick of all the BS regarding the intake swap from the stroker guys and other "butt dyno" fools that don't know what they are talking about. But mainly the runs were for my own info. Had more done down the road with other improvements, like in ignition and exhaust.

ADDCO only makes a bolt-in sway bay kit for the MJ SWB trucks. I used an ADDCO Jeep WJ bar, but did my own mounting for it. https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/42643-comanche-rear-sway-bar-long-box/ ADDCO SWB MJ setup. Sway bars shouldn't be mounted on a shock stud with an L - bracket.

Yep. Right round 12HP on an HO. Just dug up my old dyno results. I guess you mean total waste of time and money for a Renix. Eliminating that little dimple might hurt performance. Seeing this video makes me wonder how much good my headers are.

I'd try to just bend it with a couple of pairs of needle nose pliers first. I've done it before reshaping spring ends. Damn it - Pete beat me.

Got that right Dirty. Possibly someone's using one, but I haven't heard of any. The TUPY head supposedly tests for the best flow after port matching, but the gain isn't worth the risk IMO. More betta are intake mods like stated, like using the newer horseshoe intake. That little mod alone added 12HP on the dyno.

Yes, greasable bushings on both front and rear sway bars. I made my own by drilling and tapping a 1/4 x 20 in the middle of the bushing saddle, then punching a hole through the rubber bushing itself for a grease path. Did the same for the front bar, and they work great. You can see them in the below pic. The rear bar on my longbed is a 7/8" Jeep WJ ADDCO.

The engine splash guards are still available, p/n 55174736. It really does help keep the riffraff out of the engine bay. The newer model ones fit just fine. https://www.moparamerica.com/oem-parts/mopar-splash-shield-55174736

Yes, they can be mixed. I use the longer Moog K80035 Ford 350 end links because of the ~2.5" lift (a bit beefier than the stock links too) and since the pic was taken below poly bushings on the sway bar end. Also using poly for the #2 bushes.

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/pontiac/firebird/parts/496096.html Might work with some minor surgery:

Autozone has a mail-in rebate sale going on now ($20 off - whoopee). I bought a new Duralast Platinum AGM battery yesterday since my old lead/acid Duralast Gold, going on six years now, is starting to groan a bit on cold morning starts. Thought I'd try an AGM battery this time to eliminate checking the electrolyte levels. EDIT: If you need a new battery, think about getting a Group 34 battery (fits late model XJs) vs. the older standard Group 58 you probably have now. Fits perfectly in the MJ tray, delivers more CCA, and it's usually a bit cheaper. https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/51570-group-34-battery/?tab=comments#comment-525171

The bottom pic is for the bench middle seat - Don't need that with buckets.

Prove it on a dyno then I'll believe it. Just like Cruiser's "HO myth" that appears on here about once a week.