HOrnbrod

Yeah, I've started to prep them and will be painting them before I do any cutting. I tried swapping sides, and it doesn't fly. It's not a right angle; the only feasible ways to make it decent is to have the cowl and hood ridge parallel with the vents. Many thanks guys for the suggestions. I'll post some more pics after painting.

Hudson Hornet. Dayem, that inline six was probably the best one ever made, except for our AMC sixes Yes, they will be functional. That's why I'm going to mount the vents out on the rear corners; might get water on the blower motor and the brake booster. These vents also have screens under them that will help deflect the water too. Hopefully it won't be a problem :D Image Not Found Image Not Found

Thanks, I can squeeze them in there like in the 2nd pic w/o cutting into the hood reinforcement. And if H2O gets in it won't hurt anything mounted out on the corners. I was going to make a cowl hood similar to the Reflexxion hood, and borrowed a 36" universal cowl from a local body shop to see if it would fit. The size was perfect, but the cowl was flat and wouldn't bend enough to conform to the slope of the hood w/o cutting a wedge out of the middle. Anything shorter wouldn't work either because of the center hood rib. And I'm not about to pay $400+ for a Reflexxion hood..... Another topic of yours TNT, did you decide on which inline tranny filter you were going to use? You could use one of these too in your p/s cooler.

Like so? Image Not Found

Okay guys, before I go cuttin', what do you think? These are from a Pontiac Trans Am and will be painted the same color as the hood. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Now that's a great idea. Those inline tranny filters come is all shapes, sizes, and types. Are you talking about a magnetic filter like this? http://www.emergingent.com/subpage1Magnefine.htm I guess it would be best to put it in the cooler return line. I have the little factory tranny cooler, but it's better than nothing.

No it was not. I was pleasantly surprised. If you decide to inquire, talk to Tom himself, especially when giving your dimensions. I spoke to one of his assistants first, who was knowledgable, but his $$ guesstimate was higher.

Did ya check for a clogged cat? Caused an overheating problem for me big time a couple of years back.............

New shaft w. new u-joints, slip yoke, and diff yoke was about $200 shipped.

I guess that's what the rubber was for. I had driveline vibes and one of the things I did was to bring my OE driveshaft for balancing. According to my local shop, the internal rubber crap was so badly decomposed he could not balance it and guarantee it would stay right. So I had a new one made up from stout 3-1/2" tubing (Tom Woods) and it helped somewhat w. the vibes, and it was like 1/2 the weight. As far as speed things up a bit, I really don't know..........

Yes, it's most likely a chunk of rotted decomposed rubber from the sheath rattling around. Since you have an 86, I'd bet on it, since I had a similar problem with my 91.

Yes, to be safe. By using relays incorporated into your wiring harness your new headlights will put out all they are capable of because the voltage drop caused by the low gauge factory gauge wiring will be eliminated, and the most vulnerable part of the circuit, the headlight switch, will be protected from burnout. It will save you many potential electrical problems down the road.

Roger that.

That's what I did, replaced the 960# standards with new regulation 5-leaf 1500# metric ton springs a couple of years ago. When I first put them on they raised the rear about 3" but in two years have settled down about 1/2" as per normal. So they gave me about 2-1/2" of lift, which was about what I wanted. Ride well too.........

Of course, everyone knows this, but bigger tires and/or gear changes affect the speedometer calibration. If you don't change to the correct speedo gear for your setup and you use your speedo to figure gas mileage, it will not be accurate. When I went to 31" tires and 4.10 gears I also went from a 36 tooth to a 38 tooth speedo gear and had the speedo checked. It's right. With the AW4 and stroker I get 20-21 highway cruising at 65-70 MPH, but a crappy 13-15 in town no matter what I do. So in town I just get on it hard all the time :cheers:

Yes, he posts occasionally on this forum, name is Tom, user name is Hellcreek. Web site: http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com/ I'd have to ask him about these before purchasing; 3-leafs with a load capacity of 980 lbs., spring rate of 108, and arched that much to me does not add up to long life w/o sagging IMHO. These are comparable to the standard MJ springs that have 4 leafs. I'd aslo ask about the heavy duty (1440 lb) springs he has too. These are close to the metric ton spring capacity that have 5-leafs.

The left side door switch is a two contact normally open switch. It applies a ground to the interior lights from one contact; the other contact goes to the chime module (Lights ON alarm). The right side door switch is a single contact switch, it applies a ground to the interior lights only.

Yes, used 1997+ hoses and eliminated the water control valve. Got the new hoses at O'Reillys, p/nos 19038 (outlet) and 19039 (inlet). Man, you are a lifesaver :cheers: That was information I can definately use! Well, thank you StevenH :cheers: Pete was righ on as usual, just do not want anybody to take a shortcut and suffer from it. Eagle is the same way (he's jumped on a few times :oops: ) and if I screw up, I want to hear I screwed up. Hope you incorporate the JEGS Oil Pressure Safety Switch into your fuel pump circuit mate.

Thanks. They look bigger..........

What size tires are on that MJ oldjeep? 275x75x16?

Yes, used 1997+ hoses and eliminated the water control valve. From this: Got the new hoses at O'Reillys, p/nos 19038 (outlet) and 19039 (inlet). Simple but great idea! Some day you need to post all your tricks for the rest of us to copy Thanks. :cheers: I try to use a lot of the newer 1997+ stuff because most of it adapts readily to our older MJs, and you'd think that Mopar might have changed things for the better? Also the original parts are mostly no longer available. Stuff like hood pads, engine splash shields, and inner fender liners are usually rotted out in our rigs, but the new stuff fits just fine. Next up is the newer intake. I have the manifold and am heading to the yard tomorrow for the new power steering brackets.

Found mine on Craigslist. Close by, and $200 for a set of five.

Yes, used 1997+ hoses and eliminated the water control valve. From this: Image Not Found To this: Image Not Found Got the new hoses at O'Reillys, p/nos 19038 (outlet) and 19039 (inlet).

all the hoses are cut off round here, hardcore watering ban right now. i've flushed it before too never really helped. i'd rather do an E one so its warm before the car is though anyways Yes, a lot of amp drain on your electrics using an electric heater. :eek: For what it's worth, I recently purchased a molded set a heater core hoses (supply and return) for a 1997+ XJ. The new XJs never came with a vacuum water control valve. The hoses run straight from the thermostat housing to the heater core and eliminate the valve. 'Course you have to plug the vacuum line. I've never had better heat AND the transformation from hot air to cold air is controlled instantly by the internal fresh air door under the dash. Water constantly flows through the heater core, keeping it cleaner and the cooling system has more circulating coolant volume. Works really well

Glad to hear that Chuck. I'm picking up a set of 04 Rubicon 16"x8" wheels tomorrow. Any idea what the offset is on these?