HOrnbrod

That's the plan mate. :cheers:

Hey Eagle; Were you able to obtain any pics of Bob's rigs? Love to see some...... :popcorn:

Not I, am using Mopar 23.2 # injectors. You should post this up on the old stroker email forum as lots of guys there are using the Ford/Bosch 24# injectors. Most seem like they're running too rich also. :oops:

X2. :cheers:

Not yet JT. The man's been politickin' for a circuit court judge appointment down in Montgomery, according to his wife. Supposed to be home in a couple of weeks. If he gets it they'll have to move down there, and I'm pretty sure they won't take the Eliminator, so it might be good......

Hey Jeff, if you don't have one already, now is the time to invest in an electrical FSM for your rig. It has pics of all the harnesses with all the connectors labeled. Will be the best $$ you ever spent mate. :cheers:

http://www.canadaka.net/modules.php?nam ... ic&t=16559 ????

They were not on my 1991. But it's easy to figure out. 88XJSport, hope you grabbed the front air diffuser piece too from the donor. The MJ diffuser w/o a console doesn't work.

Hey TNT, I know you're a hackin' slashin' kind of guy, and good at it. :D I'm not. :cry: But I can handle a couple of hockey pucks, and the silicon is a good idea. No worries in the back with the MT leaf pack. :cheers:

Thanks - meant UP travel. I might just do this using maybe two pucks (3" lift, 31" tires) since it's cheap and easy. Shocks are right. Now if I can just find four hockey pucks in 'Bama. :D :D

Nice writeup. But I have a question regarding the last pic below. At the top of the coil is that the end of the stock bumpstop? If so it looks like you only have about 2" of down travel? Or am I blind? :nuts: Thanks

We never exported MJs, but they do pop up here and there. I saw a pristine LHD US model Eliminator down under in Alice Springs, the middle of nowhere. We used to have a couple of military satellite bases there and the happy local owner bought it from the GI who had it shipped there for $16K AU dollars. Thought he got a bargain!

Unfortunately does not light up, but I'm fooling with some LEDs to come on with the headlights mounted inside the column and will ride the pointer. Just have been too lazy to do it. These are made by Ididit and are made specifically for the GM 3-speed auto trannys, but the pointer lines up perfectly in all gears w. the AW4. They can be had here: http://www.ididitinc.com/column_ad_ons.htm I found two of them on Ebay for cheap. Of course I had to go for the chrome outer shell which screws on instead of using double-sided tape. The install is stupid simple.

You could always install a 91-96 full gauge cluster w/o the shift indicator and use one of these:

I replaced both the left and right fender liners with aftermarket ones I found on Ebay. Mine were destroyed when installing a power antenna on one side and the 97+ washer bottle on the other. They fit well and were pretty cheap as far as I recall.

True. I put a set on mine. They are slightly thicker, and you have to slam the door, but they dayem sure don't leak.

That info should be stamped on the inside of the wheel on one of the spokes.

Where in VT is the final destination?

Okay, but I'll need an address so I can attach the files.

You may want to check your vacuum supply reservoir. It's that football looking thing behind the front bumper on the passenger side. It controls quite a bit of the heater controls that require vacuum. :cheers: That ball is making vacuum, no leaks. The heater doors work fine. Oizarod115 says that valve defaults open, so that means it would require vacuum to be closed. That makes sense since my last MJ had no vacuum to the heater controls but I still had a hot defroster. Seems to me that I've got 2 problems... 1. The valve has failed, and it's stuck closed. 2. My heater control panel isn't porting vacuum to the valve when I turn the heat off. If I can free up the valve so it operates smoothly and get the vacuum porting from the heater controls correctly I'll leave it like it is. If not I'll replace the valve with a "T" fitting so it works all the time. There's no A/C in the truck so it won't hurt anything. I'll just go through the vacuum lines behind the heater controls real good to be sure nothing is leaking. Looks to me like that valve's only job is to eventually fail and make my heat stop working. The 1997+ XJs eliminated that water control valve altogether. I did the same, and the heat is better than before. You can get a set of 1997+ XJ molded hoses like I did, or use ordinary heater hose and ditch the valve. And while your heater core is disconnected, flush it out both ways with and hose until it runs clear. And plug up the now unused vacuum line when done. This really works well.

If you just want power windows and don't want to deal with or can not find the correct cross-body harness, all you need is three wires connecting the two doors. I just used a piece of 3-conductor 16AWG power cable. If you want to add power mirrors later, add another run of the same power cable. I can send you the wiring schematics if you need them. Don

Yeah, my bad. :oops: But the above is the stock height measurements out of the FSM.

That's really not the best way to measure heightbecause it's affected by tire size. The below is the best way: COMANCHE STOCK HEIGHT Front: Measure from top of axle tube to underside of frame rail, inboard of the coil spring. Do NOT measure from the diff housing or shift motor housing. 2WD models should be 6-3/4" plus or minus 1/2". 4WD models should be 7-3/4" plus or minus 1/2". Rear: Measure the vertical distance between the top of the axle tube and the underside of the frame rail inboard of the jounce bumper. 2WD models should be 8.2" plus or minus 1/2". 4WD models should be 9.2 inches plus or minus 1/2".

It sounds like you're going to have to pull the valve cover off and check the CCV metered hole in the back of the cover. It's probably clogged.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... lve+brakes http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... lve+brakes