HOrnbrod

Perhaps. :cheers: But the point is: since when do you turn a valve stem CW to open it? That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. :D

Good thread and I am better informed now regarding the subject AO. Since most contributors to this thread feel it necessary to post their military credentials, I too was a 20 year member of the Yatch Club, a commo guy, and had postings in Nam and early Desert Shield setting up comms for the Jarheads and Dogs (and loved them all ). I continue to do this work as a government civilian for all military branches and the purples. 'Nuff said. I think most of the more vocal posters of the proposed land takeover are here only because it affects you all personally, which is only human. If this was occuring in AL or parts farther East, I suspect not a peep would be heard from the CA crowd. Again, all natural, and perhaps if I lived out there (NOT! :D ) I would be in the forefront of your effort. Wish you guys and gals luck, but it's tough going against a cause when/if the 4-stars and politicians have their minds made up, as I'm sure you already know. Found out all about fighting lost causes in the Philippines when the morons closed the bases there. Good luck all. :USAflag:

I'm probably one of the few who's still running R12 in my system. A buddy called this afternoon who had scored a 30# container of R12, said come on over and we'll charge up your system for free; just bring the beer. An obvious no-brainer. :cheers: I knew I was down a pound or two as the A/C was cycling last summer and hadn't been recharged in over three years. So we hooked up the gauges, attached the bottle to the low side service valve port, and then I tried to "open" the valve. I'd forgotten that to open the valve for recharging, you have to turn turn the stem cw, NOT ccw, which actually screws the valve IN, not OUT, as it's back-seated. I didn't destroy the valve by trying to turn it ccw, but came damn close. :eek: Daddy always said if it don't turn, don't force it. Anyhow, when the dead brain cell finally kicked in, I turned the shaft cw and avoided a major catastrophe. Just passing this on to hopefully prevent someone from making the same mistake.

WTFO - got it Drahcir495. :D Never tried SEM. The Mopar factory stuff is all I have used and it works well to match the existing factory colors. But if you want to change to something from NQR factory for the interior and use one of these other brands I see no reason why it will not work. :cheers:

SEM?? WTF?

I had a mix-mix of vinyl parts in blue, red, etc. when converting to buckets and the Laredo gray interior in mine. If you want the interior colors to be consistent, the dealer still does sell reasonably priced exact factory matching colors in both vinyl and fabric spray cans. The Dupli-Color and Tecnique stuff is okay, but it always turns out NQR (not quite right) on the colors. All depends on how anal you are to do it right... :D

Nor mine.

Have you tried an online OEM Parts source like http://www.mopar-parts-dealer.com/parts.htm or http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ Shipping will be higher, but not $100+. :eek: :eek:

I'm sorry, completely blew this reply. :nuts: The ECU timer for O2 sensor replacement triggers the "Maintenance Required" light, not the "Check Engine" light. You can run the codes on the check engine light with the key procedure I posted above. As far as the Maint Req light, pull the bulb, all it does is let you know when to change the O2 sensor. Too many Millers tonight............. :cheers:

Yes, they can. For a fee (usually a 1-hour labor cost). :mad: I just said to h@$$ with it.

The timer is biult into the ECU on the 91+ HOs.

Yeah, my 91 CE light came on at about the same mileage. Most likely it's the preset timer that "reminds" you to change the O2 sensor, but you should run the codes first using the ignition key procedure (below). If all is well, recommend just pulling the bulb from the cluster like I did. Reading Computer Codes On 1991 to1997 models ( 1984 to 1986 V6 models as well as 1998 to 2002 follow ) you have a way of reading for fault codes which can be accessed without any scanners like other models by reading how the check engine light flashes. Start by turning the ignition key to the last stop before it starts, on and off three times within 5 seconds ending in the on position on the third time, ( i.e. on, off, on, off then on and hold ). The check engine light will start to flash quickly with a small pause in between then a medium pause to indicate the next number in the to digit number and then a long pause before the next set of flashing for the next code. If all is well you will get a code 55 which would read like this: 5 fast flashes, medium pause then a further 5 flashes. This is how all codes end with is this 55 code if you have air conditioning or with a code 33 without and any other codes would have been before it separated by a long pause. The codes will remain after this test so you can cycle through it as many times as it takes to read them. After a problem has gone the code will be removed after 50 on off key cycles or if the battery left disconnected over night which will cause a code 12 though. Code Description Most likely reason 11 No crank signal to computer. Fault in wiring between crankshaft position sensor (CPS) and ECM ( PCM or computer ) or faulty CPS. 12 Battery disconnected. Battery or power to the ECM disconnected in the last 50 key cycles. 13 MAP Sensor. No change in Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) between engine off and on. Check circuit and MAP sensor. 14 MAP Sensor. MAP sensor voltage too high or low. Check circuit and sensor. 15 Speed sensor or circuit. No signal detected from speed sensor. Check circuit and sensor. 17 Engine running too cold. Wrong or faulty thermostat. Check also sensor and circuit for fault. 21 Oxygen sensor or circuit. O2 sensor or wiring faulty. 22 Coolant sensor or circuit. Check temp sensor and wiring. 23 Intake air temp or circuit. Check air temp sensor and wiring. 24 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Check TPS sensor and wiring. 25 Idle Air Control circuit (IAC) Check IAC sensor and wiring. 26 Injector circuit resistance. Peak injector current has not been reached or injector circuits have resistance 27 Fuel injector control circuit. Will need specialist diagnostics. 31 Evaporative control circuit. Fault in fuel evaporative control circuit or hoses. 33 Air conditioning clutch relay. Wiring to A/C clutch fault. 34 Cruise control circuit. Fault in circuit. 35 Cooling fan relay. Check relay and circuit. 36 Air switch solenoid circuit. Air switch solenoid circuit (non-turbo) or the waste gate solenoid on turbocharged models 37 Torque converter clutch. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 41 Alternator field switch. Switch not operating correctly and check charging system. 42 Automatic shutdown relay. Check relay and circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 43 Misfire. Misfire in one or more cylinders. 44 Battery temperature sensor. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 46 Battery over voltage. Check charging system. 47 Battery under voltage. Check charging system. 51 O2 detects lean mixture. Check sensor and circuit and for vacuum leaks. 52 O2 detects rich mixture. Check fuel injection system and sensor. 53 Powertrain Control Module. PCM (ECM) fault. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 54 Distributor sync pickup. Change sync sensor in distributor. 55 End of code. Trouble codes finished or none recorded. 61 BARO solenoid BARO solenoid failure 62 Emissions reminder. Emissions maintenance reminder. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 63 Controller failure. EEPROM write denied. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 64 Flexible fuel sensor. Flexible fuel (methanol) sensor indicates concentration sensor input more/less than acceptable voltage 65 Manifold tune value. Manifold tune valve solenoid circuit open or shorted 66 TCM to PCM failure. No message from the Transmission Control Module (TCM) to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 72 Catalytic converter circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 76 Fuel pump bypass relay circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 77 Cruise control system. Check power to cruise control solenoids.

Wise idea. :D

Good pics Wade. Question: which lift handled better bodyroll-wise? The SUA 4-1/2" rear lift springs, or the 2WD SOA lift? :D

?? I just looked these up. The replacement studs part number is J4007109 and they are like $3.85/ea.

Public Land like Johnson Valley (Dept. of the Interior land) is designated public only if the federal government allows it to be, and it's not needed for a higher purpose. In this case, the Marines need the land to expand the boundaries of the Twenty Nine Palms Marine Air-Ground Combat Center and augment their training area, and give the Marines a better shot at survival. Sure, I don't like to see the steadily dwindling public wheelin' areas any more than you do, but in the case you and your cohorts are dead wrong. Your statement "PUBLIC LAND that is ours" is ludicrous. As is your infantile reference to Communism. Suggest you go somewhere like Baghdad or Kabul and check out the "public land" there available for wheelin'. :nuts:

Hey, if the USMC at 29 Palms needs this land to provide more beneficial training, and the additional combat experience gained from this training enables just one Marine to survive his tour in the sandpile, then this is a no brainer. The off-road community can suck it up and find another place to play. The Marines ain't playin'.

Did you have rear brakes before the lift? And are you sure the the rear prop valve is re-installed correctly? The operating lever of the valve should be slightly above parallel to the axle shaft. If you extended the link rod 3" to match your lift this it how it should be. Worked fine for me. :cheers:

Sure is. I used to live in upper Cubi, now a Fedex exec lives there! Clark has also become a Freeport of sorts, but is not as developed as Subic. Olongopo is still about the same, but minus the bars and other "establishments". Barrio Baretto is still alive and well, and Angeles is wilder than ever. :cheers:

86 MJs also came with the AMC-20 rear, bolt in also. Any MJ rear end you swap in will probably require driveshaft and/or brakeline mods if you are not replacing exactly what you have now. I think you are in or near Huntsville? Have you tried Complete Auto in Brownboro? Many many MJs there, lots of choices.

Aye, so right matey. Two tours, 83-85, and loved it so much went back in 86 and stayed until Subic closed in 92. Then moved over to Guam so I could still be close by. Still return every other year............

Errrrrrr, maybe you should determine what diff you have now (wimpy, guess you have a D35?), and what donor Jeep model/year you are looking to buy? No way anyone can answer this. :nuts:

Agree Tim. When Castrol dropped the ball, I tried synthetic Mobil 1. But because of the immediate rear seal leak, I drained the crap and went back old school to diesel 10/30 Chevron Delo; still has the additives w/o the leaks. Oh, and my rear seal doesn't leak anymore. :D Only place I will use synthetics now and forever is in the diff.

Wow! I had not seen those either; was stationed in the Philippines at the time. Good 'ol crappy AFN. Thanks for posting those. :cheers:

Yeah, but your gauge is reading a bit higher than the thermometer, so maybe you are not running as hot as indicated? Or I'm running hotter than I think I am. :nuts: But with such a small diff, no worries in either case me thinks.