HOrnbrod

1. Yes, that will work. Actually, your center bolt looks pretty good. When I pulled mine to insert some shims, it looked like a corkscrew. Is your center bolt a 5/16" or 3/8"? MJ leaf springs came with either. Mine looked so bad I did some checking. In 1993 or so Mopar abolished the smaller 5/16" bolt and started using the larger 3/8" bolt because of failures (unpublished dealer-only bulletin). So while I had mine apart, I reamed the hole out a bit and used 3/8" center bolts. Might last longer. :eek: 2. Don't know. I have D-clamps with a 3/8" rivet through the leafs on mine. 3. NAPA carries these, at least they did last year. Or you can get them from a spring mfg. shop.

I've been monitoring the gauge sensor closely since I finished up the electric fan install. My thermometer is an Actron infrared w. a laser pointer, and when my temp gauge is reading 200*, the sensor is reading about 195* w. the Actron. The thermometer consistently reads about 5* lower than the temp gauge, which I figured was logical since you are looking at the exterior shell of the sensor, not the hotter interior probe.

I'll have to agree with MrShoeBoy regarding Crane cams. Not from personal experience, but by all the horror stories I've seen on the stroker forum. I am also running a Hesco cam (RV-O-B) and it's been running strong for three years now. Several guys I know are running the Unichip 2720011 with good reported results. I've been able to able to tune my stroker well (w/o a chip) using an adjustable MAP voltage input, adjustable FP regulator, and a wideband A/F meter. I have not seen substantial dyno-proven performance gains over my engine to justify the cost of a chip. Just my 4-cents (inflation). :D

That would be great. :cheers: Please shoot me a PM when available. Thanks!

LOL Wahoo. Great reply too on the Pub regarding the Brett-man. I do hope he wires in for one more year and make the cheeseheads proud.

X2. :agree: Pat's got to slow down a bit and read before slamming in the DO NOT replies. :cheers:

Great job on the flares. Your rig looks very good. I've always liked the Chief hood decals. They look super in black on your white truck. Been looking for a complete set of these hood decals for a long time. Stupid question, but anyone have some laying around?? Or know of a source for repros? :cheers:

X2. Here's all the part numbers you need: Pressure Hose 624301 Return Hose 624300 Metal tube 624334 Fittings at Tranny 800714

He still plays with fire and a kid's enthusiasm. I love to watch the old bastid, and I hope he does hang in there for another year. Can anyone forget George Blanda? And naw, he couldn't play anywhere but in Green Bay. That would be like Terry Bradshaw playing for Chicago, Roger Stauback playing for the Redskins, Dan Marino playing for Seattle, or Joe Montana playing for St Louis. Just wouldn't work. Some guys are forever linked to a certain team and city; perhaps none so as much as Brett Favre.

as much as i would love for him to come back, i really think he is done. He's just beat up and tired like 90% of the NFL players are in March. Come July or August he'll be back. He's been flip-floppin' about retirement for four years...... :D

Keep it the original color according to the paint code. :cheers:

Bench seats are definitely the loser on this one. Only way I'd want the bench back was if I had Kathy Ireland (or clone) snuggling up whilst I'm driving. But that ain't never going to happen, so buckets it is. :cheers:

Glad to help mate. :cheers:

Muchas gracias amigo! :cheers:

The 2-door XJ manual regulators will work too.

AAAAARRRRRGGGG, just couldn't do it. Slapped 'em on white letters out. Image Not Found

Never did work. I put in the title question and added the options, but the poll never showed up when I previewed it.

Oh, and while at NAPA you should get a quick disconnect repair kit and replace the o-rings inside while it's apart. These things like to leak if they haven't been opened up in years.

Yes, you place the correct size tool around the hard line (ID is the same as the hard line), then slide it into the quick disconnect fitting to release the keeper prongs inside. Then the cooling line snap fits onto the new rad hard line, sort of like an air chuck.

There is a quick - disconnect fitting in the yellow circle below. Image Not Found You need a tool like this one from NAPA to slide into the fitting to release it. http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=SER&PartNumber=3530&Description=A%2fC+%26+Fuel+Line+Quick+Disconnect+Set

Thanks very much guys for the replies. Your answers were about 50-50. I'm going w. black side out for a change. Got the new BFG's as payment for about 3 hours work repainting a friends old Bronco. No body work, just two coats of OEM color laquer and three clear coats. + FREE BEER! Such a deal......... :cheers:

Aye, good reasons all. I'm putting on some new tires tomorrow (I got a killer deal on a new set of BFG M/T's) and am thinking I might mount the white letters inboard for a change. Looks something like this now (2-yr old pic): Image Not Found

Hmmmmmmm. Interesting. Why me out and you in? There MUST be some reasoning behind that...... :cheers:

White letters IN or OUT?