HOrnbrod

Cool! I'm going to put the sending unit in the tranny pan. A friend has a drain plug kit that I can put onto the side...and keep it out of the way. Thanks for the help guys!! Twisty; I'm thinking of doing the same and mounting it on the 2-gauge windshield pillar pod I put in a while back. Can you let me know the readings when you get it installed? I put in a tranny cooler and want to see if it's doing any good. Thanks! :D

The Autometer tranny temp gauge Twisty's looking at is electronic gauge - comes with the thermister sensor and should work just fine. I've used a lot of Autoneter gauges in the past and have had no problems with them.

According to my parts manual, the cables are all different between the 2WD/4WD and the 4 cylinder/6 cylinder engines. Try the dealer, they might still have them. Common failure item.

John Doe would be doej@xxx.com.

Oh, that's simple. Back when I was in the Navy, all email addys were limited to 8 characters. The first 7 characters were the the first 7 characters of your last name, and the last 8th character was the initial of your first name. For some reason I'm still doing it. :nuts:

Where you from? South Alabama? :D Got any pics?

CW, that reminds me of a story. I bought an nearly finished 36 Ford 5-window coupe hot rod with a small block 327 during my last year of HS. Got it running pretty well, thought I knew it all, but it stumbled a bit going around corners - float level adj. had to be off. It had a Holley 650 dual feed 4-barrel (the old style w. the external float level adjustment). You can see where this is leading. Pulled the plug on the float bowl, engine was hotter than I thought, POOF! What a dumbass. Luckily there was a garden hose close by, I shut the engine off, put the fire out, and surveyed the carnage. Had to do some major rewiring, repaint the hood, and replace the windshield because it shattered when the cold water hit it. Ah, memories. :cheers:

Replace it, UB an expert now. :D I would not want a missing bolt on the tranny mount. Get your $$ back for the POS aftermarket mount you must have put on and get one from the dealer, or check out Ebay. I got a NOS Mopar mount for $18 including shipping.

The aux fan on the 91+ HOs doesn't come on until 215*-220*, way too high for me. It can be even higher if the coolant sensor in the thermostat housing has calcified deposits on the sensor tip. I fixed this problem today. The aux fan relay in the HOs is in the PDC. This relay is triggered from a ground to it's coil from pin 31 on the ECU when the temp reaches the high limit (or you turn the A/C on). I simply soldered in a wire to the pin 31 ECU output wire and ran it through a spare switch on the dash to ground to energise the fan when I want. I think the Renix models w. the aux fan are triggered the same way through a relay but use 12V from the ECU, not a ground signal. So this can work on the Renix models too. Good insurance to have when stuck in bumper to bumper traffic. :cheers:

She's drinking Red Hook ESB. She's 9 1/2 years old and loves beer, wine, rum, whiskey... basically any alcoholic beverage. Good brew. She must be a Weimaraner, or be associated. Certainly no Dachshund blood. :D But both breeds are notorious drunks. :cheers:

Good choices. In the NCAA tourney I like to see the unspoiled college kids playing their roundball hearts out. 'Course I have to disagree your choice of college football living in 'Bama. :D We're not doing well lately. Pro football - I like who won the Super Bowl this year. And pro basketball - who cares. Hockey - you said it all.

LMAO! Super pic. :D What's Rolf drinkin? :cheers:

Who cares? The schools, alumni, and the millions of round ball fans throughout the world. :nuts:

Yes, I've always liked Davidson 'cause I liked their old coach, Lefty Driessel. But I'm an ACC fan, and the Heels look unbeatable so far.

Got mine today Pete - You da man. :cheers:

It's over. :cheers:

Any of y'all cheeseheads watching the Badgers getting their asses kicked all over the court tonight in the NCAAs? But it ain't over till it's over. :cheers:

That's an easy fix. Just install an inline check valve in the supply line like the below. I've done this with other FI vehicles and it works well.

I have a 91 and had previously installed an auxilliary 4-fuse block next to my power distribution center on the right inner fender. Two of the fuses were for my HI and LOW H4 headlights, one other is for my power windows, and the last is for my recent electric fan install. I made my own harnesses using OEM window switches, but did not bother with the power door locks. I'll send my window schematic if you need it, but it's for pre-1996 power windows, but the wiring is almost identical, just uses a different switch set.

If the new wheel set did not improve the vibes, it's most likely driveline related. I ASSuME you have jacked up each front wheel and checked for vertical and/or horizontal slop (wheel bearings, or bad tierod ends or other slop in the steering). If this is all okay, and I know you said the u-joints were okay, but the best way to check the joints is to pull the driveshaft and check for binding and/or slop on both u-joints. If your rig still has the originals, replace them with good quality Spicer greasable u-joints. This can only help your situation. :D

That schematic must be for a RHD. The master control unit (MCU) on all US LHD XJs through 2001 was on the drivers door. The main power lead to the MCU should be 12AWG. A circuit breaker was substituted for the fuse on post 1997 models, which I suspect was used to keep the power applied longer in case of a slightly stuck window causing more amp draw. Normally a fuse will react faster than a circuit breaker in case of high loads and/or excessive amps. I suspect a frozen regulator motor pulling 20+ amps caused your meltdown, and with the a minimum amperage fuse in place this may have been prevented. I fused my power windows w. a 20A fuse when I put them in my MJ, 5A lower than the factory. Even with both windows (vs. the 4 on a 4DR XJ) operating simultaneously, the amp draw (w/o sticking windows) is no more than 15A. I have had no problems. And I'd rather replace a fuse than a regulator of fry the wiring. :cheers:

Young whippersnappers. :mad: Yeah, HFB all! :cheers:

I think you meant the control unit is in the drivers side left door, right? :D Also JT, I replaced quite a few power window regulators in several different models, and have never seen the window motors wired through relays. They just don't pull enough amps to justify it. That also goes for power sunroofs, power rear sliders, etc.

I've always liked the Waggy front end on MJs. Lot's of chrome. :D Here's a couple more pics Marcus (Gojeep) sent of one of his mate's Aussie MJ. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Again, search and read as suggested above by others. You have not posted one thing that did not end in a question mark. Help yourself first, then ask intelligent informed questions. :cheers: