HOrnbrod

Naw - they ain't at all like to old Celts. Neither are the Fakers for that matter. This series is just not turning me on like the Larry - Magic championship series of yesteryear. But I guess that's progress like the ever rising gas prices....... :cry:

1995 for XJs.

It's not stated in the description what year the booster/master was pulled from. If it's from a 95-96, no problems. If 97+, the booster rod is too long and you would have to use your 87 booster rod. This is according to the MADXJ site. See if you can find out what it came from.

Hmm, I'm going to have to start calling a pipe wrench that - I've NEVER heard it before. Is it a demographic thing? Monkey wrench, Stilson wrench, Pipe wrench, samo samo..... But I'm sure there are origins, but :dunno:

I've done this quite a few times, and I don't even bother jacking anything up anymore. I use the good old MJ standard bottle jack between the rear spring and frame, and crank it up to just put pressure on the spring. To be "safe" I put a couple of C-clamps on the base of the bottle jack to hold it securely to the spring. Then loosen the nuts, pull the bolts (bottom bolt first), pull the shackle, then jack it up another inch or so until the bolt holes line up with your new extended shackle and reverse the procedure, inserting the top bolt first. Do one side at a time; takes about 15-20 minutes per side. :cheers:

Side note: MJs came provisioned on the harness for two horns but most were equipped w. only a single horn on the left side. But a single wire is there on the right side with a female spade connector that will plug into another horn. This way you can use a HI / LO horn set instead of the lame Meep Meep single horn. MJeff knows all about this wire. :eek: :cheers:

What's that tree rat in your avatar drinking, a wee pint of Guinness stout? :cheers:

Yes. There are the same number of lights in the new front end; 2 headlights, corner lights, and parking lights. But they will probably have to be hardwired in since the connectors will be different, except for the headlights.

They would be a hindrance off-road but help control body roll on the highway. Aftermarket MJ rear sway bars are available from Performance Suspension Technology. EDIT: I spoke to PST today. Their sway bar is a bolt-on for the SWB only and uses the upper shock mounts for mounting points. But because the upper shock mounts on the LWB are in forward of the axle, not aft like the short box, it won't work w/o considerable mods.

They would be a hindrance off-road but help control body roll on the highway. Aftermarket MJ rear sway bars are available from Performance Suspension Technology.

I think I gave the LAF (Los Angeles Fakers) too much credit. They suck, can not handle the D of Boston. Celts in 5.

:beerhead: OME! :beerhead: You got me thinking so I went out and measured. The passenger side is 1/4" higher than the driver side; two year old 3" lift.

I used OME 2-1/2" lift springs and they were specifically marked drivers side and passenger side. Oddly enough, the passenger side spring was slightly taller than the drivers side. But it sits perfectly level, so the spring rates must be different.

JeepCo is correct, never add a higher amp fuse for troubleshooting purposes, or you run the risk of burning the sometimes inadequate stock wiring up before the fuse blows. However, the clock has it's own fuse that is fed from the main interior lights fuse. The clock is a delicate solid state device, thus is double fused. My guess is that since you have added additional under dash lights, + installing the the cheap aftermarket pillar lights is causing more current draw than the original 10A fuse can handle. Pull the 20A and substitute a 12A or 15A fuse in it's place. If the 12 or 15 amper does not blow, I think you will be golden.

Before you rush out and buy a sender, turn the key to IGN, pull the wire off the sender and ground it. If the gauge does not change state you might have an open between the gauge and the sender, or the gauge meter movement itself might be bad.

Good eye Eagle. In that case, I vote for the stripes -installed correctly of course- :D

Yeah, after you break about 100 of them you learn just when to stop pulling the twist pliers and become a human tension gauge. :cheers:

Yet another wiring difference beyween the Renix and HOs. :eek:

Would be good for valve cover bolts maybe but it would be tight getting the twist pliers in there.

Strange. What do you have there, a rubber u-joint? :eek:

On my 91 battery voltage is applied at all times to the horn relay thru a fuse. The horn blows w. the key OFF. Don't know about the earlier years.

I love lockwire. Back in the early days in the Navy I used to build surface-to-air missiles at a Naval Weapons Station, and lock wire was used on every bolt head. You're right Dirty, the key of it's effectiveness is how it's installed - always matching the rotation of install threads. Looks cool too.....

The negative leads should be in a triangle loop configuration; the neg post to a bellhousing bolt (grounds the engine), head bolt stud to the firewall (grounds the body), and the neg post to the fenderwell (completes the ground loop.) This way if any of the connections open up (except the battery negative terminal of course), the neg terminal will still common to the engine and body. Jon Kelly sells custom made leads for our rigs, great product and well worth the $$. http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/price.html

I figured that when he said "we got it to work" the horn sounded? Maybe I figured wrong.

This should be impossible. The upper steering shaft is mechanically coupled to the lower shaft which connects to the steering box which bolts to the unibody. Metal all the way. Unless you don't have ground straps from the neg. post of the battery to the body, chassis, and the engine block, but you would be seeing other problems if this were true. Weird. :dunno: