HOrnbrod

I would do resistance checks on the gauge itself, across the terminals, and each terminal to ground to make sure it has different readings than the bad one. :D The bad one should have a short; the new one should not.

Pete, Eagle, how 'bout banning political discussions entirely like most all the auto/truck forums do. This is a super forum dedicated to our MJs and doesn't need statements as above from people who must live under rocks. They can post up their crap elsewhere on the 100s of available blog sites. Or do a poll and see what the majority opinion is.

I don't know unless you backfed voltage thru the sensor somehow to the gauge when you had your charger problems. I've been fooling with gauges for quite awhile and have seen several meter movements open up, but never shorted. The fuse should have gone first. :hmm:

If it's an 85 that means it prolly has the 4BD1T engine. Won't blow your socks off, but it's easily upgradable with a bolt-on intercooler and turbo from a later model engine. After Mercedes, I think these are the best diesel engines ever manufactured. I had an Isuzu p/u while I was in the Philippines, and it's a fine diesel, much better than the crappy Renault that is much more common.

I have a few of the pre-1997 mirror switches laying around, but no pigtail. :oops: Prolly be better to grab one at the yard............

I don't know what year you have, but the Renix models have a timer which activates the emissions maintainance indicator light at around 80K miles or so. It's a reminder to change out the O2 sensor. You can just unplug the timer. The timer is under the dash to the right of the steering column. On the HOs it's controlled by the ECU, no timer. I just removed the indicator light from the cluster on mine.

If you are saying that when you plug the harness connectors on the cluster and the fuse blows, it's most likely a problem with a short in the cluster. If you think it's the temp gauge, pull the gauge out (3 screws), then try again. If it doesn't blow, the gauge must be shorted internally. If the fuse still blows, the foil printed circuit ribbon that connects all the gauges to the connectors must be shorted.

Bama and (ugh) Auburn football is like a religion here; if you like one team you hate the other. Daughter #2 is attanding UA in Tuscaloosa and is in her freshman year, and gets free tickets because she's in the USAF ROTC. :D And Dreamland, that's just the best barbeque of the planet. :cheers:

Clever Wahoo. :D I like it! The Tide wiped the Dawgs, no problemo. I don't think the rest of the SEC matters now, except for Auburn, the Iron Bowl is always in doubt no matter what the records. Prolly the best rivalry in NCAA football matey. ROLL TIDE!

What has worked for me in the past is to use a piece of heater hose, one end stuck in your ear while moving the other end to the various pulleys the belt rides on. Usually real easy to hear the offending pulley (or bearing). :eek:

Thought I'd change the title since 'Bama is gone. :(

Yes, he has an 08 JK, and this: which I believe is an early 40's Willys MB?

The 91 alternators (Nippon Denso) were indeed regulated by the ECU. They can be used on the older models by adding an external regulator. There are a couple of writeups on it in NAXJA.

Come on across the border to the Arab, AL third world: $3.39 today, only 89 octane though.

Don't forget, this yard is in Canada :Canadaflag: I assume? I doubt there's much usable junk left that the rust termites haven't already turned to dust. :eek:

The 12V feed to the GAUGES fuse is also paralleled to the chime module. This is a black or blue plastic box right next to the fuse block up against the kick panel. Pull the module (there's a plastic locking tab) and do another GAUGES fuse smoke test. The chime module has been known to cause weird symptoms when bad.

Will do Jeff. Will also like to do the 4WD swap. Got the engine and suspension about the way I want now and it's time to move on. I'd like to get a crap load of the parts together, haul it to VA in your garage, supply all the brew and crabs and knock it out in a few days. Oh, and visit my Sis too. Could use a vacation mate. :cheers:

Even before I put the stroker in I had the Mike Leach header on my old stocker engine, so it has always been present on all the dyno runs, and I have no data w. other headers. I was lucky enough to get this header when it was affordable five years ago. :D

You are correct on the exhaust system and K&N FIPK. I also am running a larger 10" inverted cone intake filter I squeezed in there that sucks air from both the outside and inside and I think flows better. Stock 91 harness and ECU. Accel coil, 62mm bored throttle body, Mopar Performance wires and dist. cap. Stroker is a 4.5L Hesco crate engine, .030 overbore (so I can go .030 more later if I have to), Hesco adj. fuel pressure regulator @ 46#, 53030591 Mopar 23.2 lb. injectors, and a Hesco RV-O-B cam. I think that's all....... :D Hesco says my engine puts out equal or better numbers than most of the 4.6L-4.7L strokers they dyno. Wish it was a 5-speed though.........

JeepDog; I used mostly this writeup w. the exception of the 1996+ power steering pump and tensioner bracket. I modified the original bracket and kept the 91 pump. And yes, the numbers are RW HP & torque numbers. http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6355&highlight=intake+swap

Solid 15 around town, 18-20 highway depending how much of a hurry I'm in. :D Mileage after these mods is TBD, although most guys doing similar have reported improved mileage on the stroker forums because of the more efficient intake manifold. The olde butt dyno is sometimes pretty accurate, but I like to see the numbers, and a dyno run is the only way to prove the before and after of whatever you do. Costs about $70 for an hour's work, so it's worth it. But seeing Lee Hurley at Hesco screaming the engine at 4500+ RPM always scares the crap out of me. I NEVER run that high; errr, well maybe a few times blowing off the slimey ricers. :cheers:

Got the manifold mounted and the Unichip wired in and was dynoed at Hesco today; amazing results. The dyno peak HP vs. torque BEFORE readings last year were 207.5 HP @ 3950 RPM, torque was 243.0 at this RPM. Peak torque was 280 @ 3600 RPM. The AFTER reading, manifold only, was 219.5 HP @ 3916 RPM, torque at 294.9. The AFTER reading w. manifold and Unichip, was 261.1 HP @ 4400 RPM, with torque at 312.8. Peak torque was 345 @ 3500 RPM. All reading were at the rear rear wheel of course. :D That's a HP increase of 53.6 (although at a higher RPM) and a torque increase of 65 ft. lbs. at about the same 3500 RPM, even w. the power robbing AW-4. Just the new intake w/o the chip gave impressive gains.

It's a master lock switch so the little bastids in the back seat can't open the door and/or fool with the power windows. Yeah, more trouble than it's worth, but doable. :D

Good idea, but you would have to use three switches I think since the window switches are all SPDT. One to select right or left side, one for UP/DOWN movement, and one for LEFT/RIGHT movement.

Okay - thanks.