HOrnbrod

Hey Brent - ask them if they need any character references. There's about 2000 or so of us here who I'm sure would be happy to swamp them with emails. :cheers:

Aaah, okay - thanks CW. For what I do (and especially what I don't do :D ) with my rig, the TeraFlex TB should be good for many years. :cheers:

That's in Lakeland right Taz? Used to go by there when my son lived in Tampa. Best of luck on this one Brent. :cheers:

I thought it was you CW-man. Just curious - how did you break it?

Maybe they'll build an electric Fiat Wrangler Joe. :D I can hear the screaming already.

Installing chrome from vehicles substantially faster than an MJ, like from a Porche, Ferrari, Maserati, even some Benzs and Beemers, really does make an MJ go faster - kind of rubs off. But adding chrome from an XJ or another MJ does nothing for performance, it's only eye candy. :D BTW, I apologize for my previous post bad-mouthing Hyundai's. When I was stationed in the ROK about 12 years ago they were junk, pure garbage. All S. Korean vehicles were junk at that time. But now they have become very decent and reliable vehicles, so I've read. I'll still prolly never buy one, but my comment was out of line.

While all this speculation is enjoyable, it's still all just that and completely non-conclusive. Is there anyone near Barbourville, KY who can go eyeball it and snap some pics??

And even if you do that it'll still be a freekin' Hyundai. :ack:

I looked at them all before deciding on the TeraFlex unit. I didn't want to drill out a 5/8" hole for a Heim joint because if it gets egged out you're screwed. And I didn't want a Heim joint track bar because everything I read said they don't last long. I also didn't want to pop out one end of the track bar everytime I needed to adjust it. So I settled on the TeraFlex w. the adjustable sleeve like the tie rod and drag link have, only much beefier. Figured if the sleeve is strong enough for them it should be fine for the track bar. Maybe the off-roaders will jump in here and state which type is best for that, but since I don't go off-road I didn't worry about it. I think it was CW who had a problem w. the TeraFlex? :hmm: But I've seen writeups about problems with all of them. Is your axle off-center now Wahoo? If so, the adj. track bar should help. But most likely the steering play is being caused by your worn out steering gear box, especially if still the original. If it is, give serious consideration to replacing it with one from a 93-98 ZJ; quicker ratio and tighter steering. :cheers: EDIT: Just noticed this rig has a TeraFlex track bar. :D Image Not Found

Here's a simple one - even a Caveman can do it. After I developed leaks for the second time with the vacuum lines going through the front bulkhead under the battery to the football vacuum reservoir behind the right front bumper, I decided to junk it and move the reservoir into the engine compartment where it belongs. I picked up a canister from a Porsche 944 that looked like it would work for $2, and located it in front of the blower motor where it fits in there just fine using the existing PDC screws. Plumbing was easy; there's a "T" fitting on the firewall just above it where one line goes to the HVAC controls in the cab and the other goes to the cruise control module then out to the old canister. There is a check valve on the line going to the HVAC, so you want to splice in the new canister after that "T" fitting like the old one is. Although this canister is smaller than the old football, it works just fine. Plenty of vacuum reserve for the HVAC, A/C, and cruise. :cheers:

The trackbar models with the TRE use the OEM tapered hole - no drilling. The ones with the Heim joints require drilling out for the bolt. There may be exceptions but I don't know of any.

And don't forget the $25 5/8" drill bit you'll have to buy (if you don't have one) to drill out the frame hole. :eek:

Lot more involved than a "front end panel swap".

Good competitive game, although a bit boring at times. But I'm glad there will be a Game 7 and maybe we will see some good olde time hockey. Home ice will prevail again though...... :cheers:

Probably rotted in half...............

CLICKY HERE

This is bit off-topic, but when Taz reformats and reinstalls he'll have to make the choice too. :D Right now I have two hard drives, one for the OS (XP Pro) and the other for applications. Both are using the FAT32 file system. I'm debating whether or not to convert the drives to NTFS, and realize if I do there's no going back. What do you gurus recommend? I've never used the NTFS file system. I'm mainly interested and better stability and saving hard drive space. And I do run some old DOS based games like DooM - will those be affected if I convert to NTFS? Thanks :cheers:

No, it won't. BTW, that p/n doesn't exist on the TSC website. Also, the largest U-bolts they have are 3/8" that are too small for even the D35. 'Course the web site might not list everything............. :D

:agree:

Eggzakerly right. Makes you wonder why the AMC/Mopar engineers didn't design the tank baffle plate so the MJ and XJ sending units were interchangable in the tanks. :nuts: The hardest sender of all to find is the 91-92 MJ-specific HO sending units mainly because there were less of the MJ HOs manufactured. But at least by then the MJ and XJ shared the same pump regardless of engine size, and the MJ tanks were standardized, so there was only one HO MJ sending unit. I found a new sender on Ebay by doing an advanced search using the correct factory part number. The guy had no idea what the sender fit, but did include the p/n in the description. There are many many sellers on Ebay that sell NOS parts on Ebay and are clueless as to what they fit. So, ascertain the correct factory part number of what you need, and do an advanced search on Ebay motors for it. And with all the Chrysler dealers going belly-up and selling off all their NOS parts, sooner or later they'll show up on Ebay. Prolly be plenty of MJ tail light assemblies showing up too. :cheers:

I did get a full 3" using the OME coils comparing before and after readings from the wheel hub center to the flare lip. But in reality, when measuring ride height the correct way according to the FSM, I now sit 2-1/2" above stock in the front.

Not sure what you are asking here. The purpose of the adjustable track bar is to re-center the axle under the body. I don't know which adj. track bar you have, there are many different models designed for the amount of lift you have i.e. 0"-3", 3"-6", etc., but I used a 0"-3" TeraFlex unit. It has an adjustment collar like a tierod so you don't have to disco one end of it. But with your lift, you need to measure first (as in the link) to see if your axle is centered or not. If it's still centered, no worries. If it's not, you have to adjust the track bar, making it longer, until the axle is pushed back toward the passengers side and re-centered. Make sense?

With a similar front lift my axle shifted about 5/8" left toward the drivers side. The below link explains how to measure this shift. Then you can adjust it out to re-center the axle w. your adjustable track bar. After that you will need to re-center the steering wheel with thr drag link. None of this should affect your alignment. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoTrackbar.htm

No sheite. :D I've emailed the seller for the VIN - maybe, but doubtfully, I'll get a response. :cheers:

Naw, didn't think so.