HOrnbrod

60+ freeking pounds? "Now do I build a box for it as my shop sub or put it in the MJ???" No brainer - shop sub.

Pat, sounds like you're working for a nickle/dime outfit that really doesn't give a dayem about their employees, and I'm sure you are busting your butt for them if I read you right. I realize jobs are scarce and sometimes hard to come by in our current economic situation, and I don't see it improving anytime soon. But, if at all possible, recommend you continuing your education w. subsidies as you alluded to in a previous post. You're a young guy, and have plenty of time. :cheers:

Likewise for me on my 91 using the 96 XJ booster, master, and Explorer disks. I did use the alum spacer. Super upgrade.

Yeah, unreal. The announcers noticed though - that's about it. :nuts: I'm sure the officials will be reamed out pretty good for that "oversight" and be alert for any repeats for the rest of the playoffs. Great game though. But the Wings will win on the road Thursday night. :cheers:

I have a nearly new complete set of solid 1-piece Gorilla lug nuts (1/2"x20) in super condition. Hex wrench size is 13/16". The set also includes 4 locking lug nuts with the socket key. These are better than factory as they are heavier duty and are solid w/o the factory s/s shell that always seems to get destroyed over time w. impact wrenches. Will sell cheap. PM me if interested. :D

Man, super game going on right now - already 2-2 in the 1st period. :D

Ah, okay, those are from a 900 series model. They would look good in the hood if they can mount flat. The drip pans are very useful also for directing incoming water away from where you don't want it. I used the 98 ZJ vents w. drip pans.

RED/BRN on my 91 is LF Speaker Negative (LF-) . Battery Constant is PNK. But this may be useless on your 88.

Yeah, I think pre-filling the oil filter is completely unnessary on Jeep 4.0 engines. It takes about two seconds after startup after an oil and filter change to reach full oil pressure. What's not stupid IMHO is using a magnetic oil drain plug. The non-metallic sediment doesn't worry me, the filter will get it, but the heavier metallic sediment often doesn't get trapped in the filter and just moves around in the oil pan basin. Every time I change oil in whatever vehicle I have (magnatic plugs in all), there is always a bit of metal shavings on the plug. Can't hurt. :cheers:

Same part numbers for both front door checks, so I don't see why not mate. :D EDIT: Dayem Buffalo Bob beat me again. :eek:

I too like the Saab vents. Do you remember what model these vents came from? I've had several Saabs in the past and none had hood vents. Must have been an older turbo model?

It is. :cheers: I've never seen a Renix aftermarket A/C delete pulley/bracket assembly except the factory unit.

Great progress Peter. Been following the project off and on over on Strokers. :D Couple of questions: 1. Did Lee at Hesco provide any good usable advice and/or equipment for you? 2. Are you planning on adding any kind of belly pan? Or is that allowed? 3. Are the specs for the stroker build over on the Stroker forum?

Excellent buy! 91 or 92? Cruise working?

Check for a clogged cat.

Chev S10 or GMC S15 LWB is the closest. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2964&hilit=s10

The Wings are making it look way too easy. Hopefully the NBA finals starting Thursday will be more competitive.

Sure does Eagle, Figure 18. What about pulling the guts out of the compressor clutch then reassembling? Doable? Either that or start hittin' the yards for an A/C-less 4.0 idler bracket and pulley.

http://jeepgarage.free.fr/OWN/drive%20belt%20routing.pdf

What a hell of an exaggeration and over generalization. :roll: I've owned many many Benz's throughout the years and wiring was never a problem if you know what you are doing. :D By far the worst electronics ever was anything made by Lucas on the older Brit MGs, Triumphs, Healys, etc. and also used on older Volvos and Saabs. Pure hell. Historically OEM import parts have cost more than comparable domestic parts, but it's basically a wash now since so many "factory" parts are now manufactured "offshore". German parts are usually no more expensive than comparable Japanese stuff, and for aftermarket parts the playing field is about equal.

Can't you just pull the A/C compressor and get a new shorter belt for a 4.0 Renix w/o air conditioning and route it appropriately? Like you say, the only A/C delete bracket and pulley assemblies I've seen are for the 91 and up HO 4.0 engines.

Volvo and Mercedes both make several AWD models. I really like the Benz GL-Class Bluetech diesel w. AWD. AFAIK we can't get them down here in the USA yet, but you can in CA. :Canadaflag: They build them here in Alabama and I was lucky enough to drive one at their factory during a tour. Just a super vehicle. :cheers:

Both 5/16 and 3/8? You mean the supply and return lines are different sizes, right?

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Cool, understand. Would be wise I think though to do a bench test and see how the fuel float input slopping up and down affects the pic output to the gauge. But prolly the fuel gauge built-in damper in the meter movement would compensate.