HOrnbrod

:bowdown: Thanks guys! I learned something tonight. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks. :D They didn't have these when I was coming up and I've always done it the old fashioned way. :cheers:

Good choice. It'll mount properly too. And yes, I like everything about the OMEs except for the YELLOW! :cheers:

So what? And yeah, I know you were just kidding around. :shake: :dunce:

Your picture shows what looks like plastic crimp connectors with the internal metal crimp sleeve. A heat gun will not melt solder inside w/o melting the plastic insulation. Do you have a link to this connector?

It appears Darren hasn't been getting enough attention lately so he's created another boo-hoo me thread. Samo-samo. :shake:

I don't use them. They can vibrate loose if not crimped properly. A soldered splice joint wrapped with heatshrink tubing is far more reliable and permanent. Trust me.

I just "pretended" to buy one - up to a point - and shipping to AL was $55. Dayem, wish I needed an engine. I have bought parts from these folks before at ridiculously low prices and they were always new OEM. Never an engine though. They deal in factory surplus parts. :cheers:

I know nothing about these - seems like a good deal if you're in the market. I do know Tapco is OEM parts only: HERE

I would try first making sure all the mains cables are tight and corrosion free, then unplugging one headlamp at a time just to see if if it can be isolated. But I think it's the switch too.........

Hey Wade, I know where there's a fuel tank skid for $45 not far from you in good shape. Shipping was a killer for me. :eek: Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

No, the factory headlights do not have relays. The optional foglights do though. :nuts: The Echlin switch should work fine if that's the problem, but I like the OEM stuff better. P/n 56001861, about $25 at the stealer.

If ride quality and handling is important, you can't beat OME shocks. I have about the same lift as you, am running MT rear leafs, and use OME #N40L for the rear using the stock mounts. Travel is 15.6"-25.8", and it's actually a ZJ shock, so you have to press out the upper bar pin to mount them. Bilstein's are also a good choice but I don't know the correct p/n for them.

Outer Banks? If so, that ain't workin, that's funnin. :cheers:

I'm not votin', but I'll offer $2.50 for it if the other offers don't pan out.

No pics, but the below link explains it. The slotted hole is in the front uniframe LCA main bolt. I just loostened the 1/2" bolt at the LCA clevis at the rear of the arm, pried the LCA forward w. a hefty flatblade screwdriver, then inserted a 4mm shim doing one side at a time, retighten, then check the caster w. an angle finder. "The main bolt is in a slotted hole and will move forward as you jack the front as shown." http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm

I had my bench rebuilt and reupholstered years ago; was about $125 as I remember. There are no reliable covers anymore for the bench. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15775&p=159095&hilit=bench+seat#p159095

Nice job Matt - you got 'er done mate. :cheers: Did you verify your caster angle yet? Also, I ASSume you will change out the UCA axle bushings later? That'll make it even better.

Nice job Matt - you got 'er done mate. :cheers: Did you verify your caster angle yet? Also, I ASSume you will change out the UCA axle bushings later? That'll make it even better.

Agree, if that's an actual pic of the radiator, which it's not. The rad description dimensions are right and the box pic looks right. Unless the seller will send you an actual pic of the rad, forget bout it. And an auto tranny rad is okay; they come with plugs for the tranny coolant lines.

Jeep heads are identified by a casting number on top of the head above the #4 exhaust port, on the manifold side. The stock I6 cylinder head is cast iron and weighs about 60lb. The valve head diameter is 1.91" intake/1.50" exhaust. Casting numbers are as follows: Year............Casting No 1987-90......2686 1991-95......7120 1996-98......0630 1999-06......0331 More info here: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=241&sid=0d4e5a98c3e76111ac3bc67ba88ba245

AAAARG. Just got back from the annual excruciating Christmas dinner at the in-laws, but the beer was cold. :cheers: MERRY CHRISTMAS ALL!

I've never bought anything from them simply because of their website. It pi$$es me off. Maybe their products are okay, but they badmouth other designs/approaches that disagree with theirs - no need for that. Too much word smithing. I figure if their products are good, they will speak for themselves via feedback from their customers. In any event if you like their stuff, go for it, and provide feedback. And I agree w. mfpdm. Doesn't take big $$ to make conforming products. The pic makes it look like some dude is making these arms in their garage. If you can eyeball differences, it doesn't give me warm fuzzies.

Is this a joke question? The gear ratio will stay the same even w. a missing tooth, for awhile. But eventually the skip introduced by the missing tooth will permanently change the gear ratio to full lock. :D Might work though on medieval water wheel.

Two of my all time: Cream http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqh54rSzheg Edgar Winter Group

Stock 15.75" 15.00" Read much? :cheers: