HOrnbrod

The Good: 87 MJ longbed, white. w. Laredo trim package 4.0L, 5-speed D44 w. 3.07 gears, 2WD Burgundy bucket seats w. large side bolsters (cloth ripped) Lighting package w. cargo light Good body & tailgate, no dents/rust Factory hitch Clear title Original owner The Bad Up on blocks, has not run in five years due to no brakes Master cylinder missing Owner says engine is okay?? Bent rear chrome bumper Steering column hacked 190K miles I can get it for $450. All I want is the D44, the rest I'll part out. What y'all think?

1JTMW64P1JT249624 - 88 Pioneer Can anyone run this? Gracias. :cheers:

:agree: But first try unplugging the connector and cleaning it up with some contact cleaner. Could be just corrosion if you're lucky. :D

Have you relocated the crank sensor from the flywheel to the harmonic balancer?

Email Eric. No one has done this here. Plenty of info on this over at NAXJA too.

Why in the world do you want to retain the crappy drum brakes? This is a great opportunity to convert to disks, since you have the backing plates. Prolly the easiest would be Ford Explorer disk brake conversion; then you'd only need the spacer plate fabbed (or buy them for $20 or so). ZJ disks on the D44 have been done many times to. Another option.

De nada. :D

The distribution block under the master is just that - for distribution. The proportioning valve that regulates brake bias to the rear wheels is the stock load leveling valve. I have Explorer rear disk brakes (w. an excellent internal drum ebrake on the rotors), and elected to retain the load leveling valve as I haul loads occasionally and it works. Everyone here badmouths it, I don't care, I think it's just a matter of people not knowing how to adjust it. Suggest you install your rear disks, retain the rear load leveling valve, then test and see how it goes. You are correct stating that the rear disks require a bit more bias so I fabbed an adjustable rod to fine tune it here: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17968&hilit=adjustable. My brakes work great under all conditions. But if your load leveling valve is fubared, bypass it and either plumb in an XJ front prop valve or an aftermarket inline from Wilwood or someone. Plenty of info on that. :D

If it doesn't fit like mine in the signature, same height as the cab roof line w. the same angle, it ain't original. Your's sounds like a pre-94 S10 cap. It the closest non-original cap for the MJ but is lower than the roof and the sides angle in sharper from the bed to the top.

So you need the module and the fuse for the fusebox and you're good to go? Si.

For what?? Edit your profile so we know what you have. :idea:

That's our esteemed Wildman (aka Buffalo Bob, our current MJ of the month honoree) neighbor's rig. I'm sure Bob's all over that if he's aware and not too busy. :D

This is an excellent upgrade for the 91+ if you have blowby. I've done it - works well. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/JAvalveCover/ValveCover.htm

W/o pics it's hard to tell........... :needpics:

For Jim: May we never forget.

Yes, the San Magoo quality control was not the best in the past, but it's better now. I've found plenty of cigarette butts and even a dead mouse once. :D Ever drink SM Red Horse Jim? Good stuff, 8% alcohol.

I used the Wagner calipers from O'Reillys on my 91 2WD. No loaded or unloaded then, and that was just last year. They came with pads that squeeked and I never could fix until I found a set of ceramics. All is well now. :cheers:

A loaded caliper comes with everything; pads, and all mounting hardware and of course is more expensive. A semi-loaded caliper is missing some things, like pieces of the hardware and/or the pads. I always get semi-loaded calipers as the pads that come with the loaded ones are usually crap. The metal piston calipers are better at heat transfer and of course are more expensive. Probably better for a trail rig. I've never found any for my 91 MJ though, so no experience.........

I love San Miguel, but not the export crap. Brown bodies and brown bottles as they say in the PI. :D My absolute worst beers I've run into that I could barely stomach are Paroni (Italy), Oriental (Korea), and of course Jeff's favorites, Iron City and Bud Slime. :cheers: Tepid's warm. I'll drink it that way in a pinch. After you choke down the first six, it gets easier. And ALL the beer/ale in Canada is good. :Canadaflag: I don't know why the US can't mass produce really good brews besides a few of the really expensive micro-breweries. :(

Schmidt's beer isn't bad. Knowing Jeff though, he probably drinks Iron City. Both cheap and very bad. Would be a good yard beer, along with Fallflat and Narragansett. But there are really only two beers, cold and hot. Even the foulest tasting beer like Heinekin is palatable if ice cold. :cheers:

I'm sure you've read over these posts. I played with this once awhile back, but there's no provision for it on the 91 4.0 ECU. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35197&highlight=extended+idle http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77285 It should be easy enough to figure out though w. a 97+ electrical FSM. You know pin 12 of the PCM needs to be grounded, along with the signal from the NSS telling the PCM that it's in PARK or NEUTRAL. The 97+ FSM should tell you which PCM pin(s) the ground or 12V signal is applied by the NSS when in PARK or NEUTRAL, right? Do you have the FSM? Once you know the pinouts, you could apply all the signals to the ECU w. a double (or triple if necessary) pole switch at the same time. Only way to find out if it will work is to try it............

Enjoyable post Jeff. :D Miller HL, The Most Respected and Adored and Admired and Manly It's not only the best yard beer; it's the best indoors beer, fishing beer, driving beer, workin on the MJ beer, and it's CHEAP! But unfortunately I've switched to Bud Lime and don't drink MHL anymore. NOT!!!

$180! You can pick up new lines and fittings at RockAuto mucho cheaper than that. These are such a PITA to replace I wouldn't use junkyard stuff. Here are the part numbers you'll need: Pressure Hose 624301 Return Hose 624300 Metal tube 624334 Fittings at Tranny 800714 As far as the quick connects on the lines, I just used a cheap tool kit for these from NAPA (Part Number SER 3530); it was the 3/8" blue one if I remember correctly.

If it's running, do all the general maintenance PMs that should be done on any new to you vehicle. Drive it, run it hard, brake it, etc. If something breaks, detail the problem, detail what you have done to repair the problem based on a search here, then ask for specifics. You'll have many problems, as we all do, so answering your general "what to do" question is impossible. Sounds like you have done a decent start. But there's no instant gradification answer mate. :cheers:

MJs have the wiring there, it's plug and play. Image Not Found