HOrnbrod

Just parallel the wiring to the parking lights under the head lamps.

Gearing up for D44 swap. Anyone know a good source and/or dimensions? Retaining SUA configuration.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17864&hilit=city+lights

Butt-fugly. :roll: FWIW, the MJ export tail lamps were the same as the US models, unlike the XJs.

You sure your are reading the power pin at the 3-pin plug to ground and not the sender output wire? Also check the power pin to a closeby good chassis ground, then to the ground pin in the plug. The voltages should be the same IF the ground behind the left tail lamp is okay. Also check the voltage on both sides of the ballast resistor on the left side fender well in the engine compartment. Let us know what these readings are.

Good point Joe. :cheers: Kind of slow around here tonight. :yes: I've seen them go anywhere from $150-$650. Has 150K on it too, so the Trak-Lok is probably toast, but since the carrier goes with it, who cares?

It is according to the stamped Dana p/n, 3.92 and up.

Found one locally. From an 89 MJ, 3.55 gears, 150K miles, stamped numbers match the specifications. The guy wants $225 and will throw in a new Trac-Lok carrier that I will need when (if) I change gears to 4.10. Sound reasonable?

Trouser mouse? :dunno:

From an earlier post: http://www.electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=1175

This is true. I chose not to use the crappy stock regulators as they are too slow, too expensive, and don't last long. The stock power window regulators are one of Mopar's biggest cash cow profit parts. I also did not want to wire in power door locks as the stock solenoids are also high failure items. I used better quality aftermarket power regulators and adapted stock XJ/MJ window switches (2-pole drivers side, 1-pole passenger side) and made my own wiring harnesses to mate to the OEM switches. Looks stock, but performs better. :cheers:

Yep, Happy New Year to you too Wade. The Tide did roll in their meaningless bowl game; the Huskers didn't in their less than meaningless bowl game. :cheers: On to next year.................

Err, why not just call them?

Go for it, then let us know how it fits.

Congrats and hope your selection as MJ of the Month made your New Year a little happier. :D You and your fine rig certainly deserve it. :cheers:

:clapping: That's good Jim. :yes:

Wishing ain't going to get 'er done. You have eliminated the cluster gauge, so the problem is either a hanging sender float in the tank, or a bad pot on the sender. Either way you have to pull the sender/pump assembly to fix. On your 91, the pot should read @ 105 ohms empty; 5 ohms full. But before you pull the assembly out, check the ground connection behind the left tail lamp to be sure it's secure and corrosion free, as the voltages sent to the fuel gauge picked off the pot are referenced to this ground.

Yep, that's right Rob. I don't understand SW2. Don't tell him though. :yes: As I recall from previous posts, he's been plagued with several nit-picking problems on his MJ, nothing earth shattering, as we all are, and he wants to dump it. Then he buys a 98 5.9 ZJ, arguably one of the most troublesome rigs Jeep ever produced. Realize he needs something bigger for his growing family, and applaud his choice only because it's a Jeep, but why not a late model rock solid low miles XJ? If you read this SW2, just sell your pristine MJ. It'll take maybe a week max and low $$ for someone who appreciates it to make it almost perfect. I just don't see the logic in this......... But of course it's none of my business. SW2, feel free to tell me to flock off and die, I won't mind mate. Do what you think is best. Cheers. :cheers:

Might have a hard time selling the TJ and getting anything close to $$ invested / break even - I'd say next to impossible.

Then move it to the other side. That's how it was done in the 97 and up models.

:thumbsup:

:agree:

Good for you Sam. :clapping: It's not that people can't, it's that people choose not to.

A little less (6.6) but about 6x cheaper.

I put the 1" thick styrofoam panels in the two doors last year. It most definitely helps keep the temperature constant both in the summer and winter. Noticed a big difference in the winter as the garage warms up very quickly with the propane wall heater. Then I just shut it down and it will hold the heat in for 2-3 hours if nobody opens the doors. I think it was very worthwhile. And the little extra weight had no effect on the openers.