HOrnbrod

I think that answers your question Dirty....

Yup. Don't remember ever seeing it here though....

Damn. Now that saveevryjp1998 knows how to post pics the forum will be overloaded.

I had to look this up. And yes, normal 12V power to the pump drops across the ballast resistor and another 12V power source bypasses the resistor depending on the FP relay contact positions when starting or at WOT when the O2 sensor also drops out. I never realized this about the pump - good to know.

Check the fuel pump ground behind the left tail lamp.

It's odd that the holes for the Renix Grilles were equidistantly spaced both horizontally and vertically so the grille could be mounted either way. It had to be intentional, but why?

Yep. It shows up better in the first pic. But maybe that's correct for South America. Si?

Jeep 4.0 I6 Blocks Year..........Casting No 1987-90.. 53005535 1991-95.. 53008405 1996-98.. 53020569 1997-??.. 53010341 1999-04.. 53010449 Cylinder Heads Year.............Casting No 1987-90......2686 1991-95......7120 1996-98......0630 1999-06......0331

Samo-samo

Would definitely help him buying your used street ell fitting if he manages to extract and clear the threads of the broken original.

We don't know what he's driving yet. A V8 what? OP, is there a reason why you won't / don't detail what you are driving?

Me either, unless you want no more than 3" of lift.

https://comancheclub.com/topic/54296-post-lift-tire-location-problem/

What year is your truck? Like rokinn said, it's a temp sensor that feeds the ECU (if it's a 91 or above) and turns on the aux fan at ~220* or so if equipped.

Roger. How 'bout the newer 2.5L location?

Not that it helps you Swampy, but the HO engines have the oil pressure sensor mounted on the oil filter adapter; real easy to get to. Sometimes I think the Renix design engineers were a bunch of sadists.

Yeah, bummer. Maybe unbolt the engine mounts and raise or lower the engine w. a jack & block of wood under the pan enough to clear?

The brass wall looks so thin it looks like you probably could run a tap in providing there's enough room to get a greased up short-length tap started. The thread would either 1/8 or 1/4 NPT; same size as the oil pressure sensor. Pipe thread taps are tapered so it should be easy to start.

Is it set up for R12 or R134?

Finally got around to swapping in the new brake fluid reservoir. Picked it up on Ebay, a new Mopar unit that came with new grommets and roll pins. Overall pretty easy, except breaking it loose from the master. It required quite a bit of leverage with a couple of large screw drivers. I found the best way was to pop the front nipple out first, rotate it clockwise until it cleared the master cylinder body, then pop the rear nipple out. Suck all the fluid out with a turkey baster as best you can first, but it'll still make a mess because you can't get all the brake fluid out. Use plenty of rags and plastic to prevent splashes. The roll pins tapp out and back in easily using the correct drift punches. And best of all, no need to remove the master cylinder - so no bleeding required.

https://www.jk-forum.com/articles/jeep-cherokee-trackhawk-tune-1000-hp/?utm_source=jan16&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=content

What are you trying to do Pete? I've done a lot of PP diagrams, and when complete it I just copy the whole thing then paste it in a blank canvas using a graphics program then save it as a .jpg graghics file. Example: 3rd Brake Light Wiring.ppt

Boring maximus Dirty.

Try reading his signature.

Why does he have what looks like a Nippon-Denso alternator on an 88?