HOrnbrod

3333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333 Nope, it's not the forum. You probably have a dead key switch on your keyboard. 3333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333

This Scrambler went for $19,800. :drool: http://www.barrett-jackson.com/application/onlinesubmission/lotdetails.aspx?ln=333&aid=467

Left side of the fuse panel. Can be black or blue color. The blue has the headlamps ON alarm, the black does not.

Hey Wahoo! You do have a good shot. But since Duke bit the dust, meh.........

Louisville really needs to dig up Uncle Drew and company. :yes: See Here I'm liking Syracuse to win it all.

Cut off pin #7. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36421-chimers-and-roof-visors/?hl=buzzer&do=findComment&comment=364548

Only way to go IMO. But some are drawn to the extreme unique. To each his own.

The 96 sender is modular but still has a float that moves a potentiometer slider. Don't know if you can get to the pot terminals though.....

http://comancheclub.com/topic/15047-ho-fuel-sending-unit/?hl=leg&do=findComment&comment=153158

Yes, I've bench tested it using an HO sender and Renix sender. The gauge will move in the right direction and be close to accurate, but won't be spot on because of the difference in values between the renix and HO potentiometers. As Jeff stated above.

Won't work. Since the variable voltage output to the fuel gauge comes off the potentiometer's slider terminal, to change output polarity to the gauge you need to switch the input voltage from one pot leg to the other.

Yep, threads are the same.

Yes, and remove the brass proportioning valve inside.

3.55s are plentiful. Most all MJs with the AW4 auto have them from the factory. 4.10s? Rare as hen's teeth.

Lol I know absolutely nothing at all about jeeps which was why I posted it in first place. Without ideas on what it could be I would be sitting there for hours probably just attempting to trace the leak and scratching my head. Looking for an oil leak is good training for you. You have been given ideas and possibilities, now all you have to do is look for it. C'mon man.

A clean classic build. :thumbsup: ROLL TIDE!

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/JEEP/COMANCHE/SENDER-PACKAGE--Fuel--Diesel--Gas--Carbureted-16-Gallon/4357329/53002579.html

If you are keeping your rear load sensing valve, pull the front plug and proportioning valve from the new XJ block, and replace the plug with the old MJ block plug. Then hook up the MJ load sensing valve brake line to the front port as before. You need to get rid of the prop valve inside the XJ block. BTW, was the MJ DB stripped?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-NOS-86-Jeep-Comanche-2-8L-Fuel-Sending-Unit-16-Gallon-Tank-SF8953002579-/321097194797?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac2e25d2d&vxp=mtr EDIT: Nevermind. Joe beat me. :yes:

That's a ZJ or XJ rear shock. The part number should be stamped on the shock body. If the travel is right, you can press the top bar pin out and use it for the MJ top eye mount.

What is the Bilstein shock number you are referring to? Front or rear?

Yes, the @$$ with four legs. :rotfl2: Love ya Jim.

It's pure plug and play. Here's a link on the various 4.0 distributors: http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=9111

Looks like Kasen doesn't quite trust that @$$. :yes: